This is my picaxe 20m2 dev board. It has picaxe itself, a LM7805 voltage regulator and two DIL sockets, one for ULN2803 and the other for L293d (already in place). Those four copper wires (I know that looks a little unusual but there wasn't any other way in which i could connect picaxe with L293d :P) in the above photo are going from the output pins of the picaxe to the input pins of L293d.And I am using three polarised male headers set instead of that usual 3.5 mm jack for the programming purposes cause I think that 3.5mm female connector is a lot more space consuming.
Here's the basic platform that i'll be working on in some of my starting robots. It has two geared motors (one for each side) which enables it to move.I choose this tank mechanism so that I can upgrade to tracks later on (I am working on making my own tracks). I have used a perf board to make the main chassis cause it is easier to add more components like proximity sansors, robotic arm etc. later (i can use male headers to keep the extra components in place). The batteries are positioned underneath the perf board.
.Here's another picture
Comments, suggestions, advices are welcome.
Thank You :)
- Actuators / output devices: two geared motors (221:1)
- Control method: autonomous (very)
- CPU: Picaxe 20m2
- Operating system: windows 7 64bits
- Power source: 4 AA batteries
- Programming language: Picaxe basic
- Target environment: indorr and outdoor
This is a companion discussion topic for the original entry at https://community.robotshop.com/robots/show/my-first-robotics-platform
You have a good start there.
I think I would have opted for insulated wires to make the interconnects. If anything conductive falls on top of your wires, you could have problems.
They are insulated
They are insulated copper wires (with some insulated coating). I found them from an old transformer core.
Nice and clean construction.
Nice and clean construction. Post video
Looks very organized. I also
Looks very organized. I also have such a board in development but with Attiny and only one L293D.
I like that gearbox with the “standing” motors
Oh, before I leave…any video available?
Right now, I
Right now, I have programmed it to just to go ahead for two seconds, turn around, return and keep repeating the same. I’ll post a video soon when i add a proximity sensor on it.
Awesome bot! Has there been
Awesome bot! Has there been any more progress on it? Also I’m curious about your chassis; did you make it yourself or is it a modified RC truck?
I made my Start Here Robot
I made my Start Here Robot (sort of) on this, it has an IR proximity sensor in place of that sharp ir sensor and it just turns around in ‘one’ fixed direction if something comes ahead it.
I got the rear gear box from an old 4x4 bulldozer toy and made my main chassis with a perf board as it provides a large area for holding electronics and other stuff, and it also makes it easier to keep those electronics in place as i have soldered male headers on it according to my picaxe board’s size and it fits nicely :)
culd you post schematics?
culd you post schematics? can the bot work with pic 16f628?
There is no reason you can’t run a bot from a '628.
It, the 16f628, has fewer pins, so, you would need to adjust where things are connected. Otherwise, it is a matter of adding a motor driver, and, having the option to add a darlington array to 7 or 8 pins. There are robots posted here that run from 8 pin PICAXE(PIC) chips. Adding pins just makes it easier to add components.
Sorry, but i can’t. I don’t
Sorry, but i can’t. I don’t have any schematics or PCB design for it, i just made it according to my needs but i do can provide you some high res pictures of the board from below if you want
could you please do it? i
could you please do it? i would be very happy if you do it. im new at robotics.
you can download expresssch
you can download expresssch and draw the schematics.
** there you go- **
there you go-
open the image in a new tab for a more clearer view
thanks. ive been wondering
thanks. ive been wondering about pic and this board. i just didnt know what does every pin in chip…
what wires do you used from
what wires do you used from usb cable? on mine, there are five: black, red, white, green, another black(i guess for power).
First of all, which
First of all, which microcontroller are you using? If you are using a PIC then this schematic will not work with it and you will need a different circuit which will depend on the I/O pins on your PIC. see this nice little breadboard module if you are using a PIC16F628A- http://embedded-lab.com/blog/?p=1034 .
Secondly i used a USB-Serial cable when i was using picaxe and this board and you only need three wires to program a picaxe ie. serial out (tx), serial in (rx) and ground (0V). that is why i have shown a three wire connector in my schematic. If you are using a PIC then you will probably need a PIC programmer (for example a PICkit 3). and i can’t help you with those five wires untill you describe the place from where those wires are coming from (it can be a programmer as well as a USB to serial convertor).
Clean layout, simple circuit. BUT, how about the code?
Yes, but PICAXE code would NOT work.
The author could have used a 14M2. It has enough I/O pins.
At the time i made this post
At the time i made this post it was programmed to just move ahead for two seconds, then turn left and then again go ahead for two seconds and so on… after some time my programming cable went bad and since then i have never used picaxe again. But i do have a code for a simple obstacle avoider i wrote when i started with picaxe that ran perfectly on this-
a proximity sensor is fixed ahead of the car and its output (connected to pin c.7 of picaxe 20m2) goes high when something comes too near to it, then it turns left and starts moving again…
if pinc.7=1 then
’ //////////////// stop
’ /////////// go back a little
’ ///////////// turn
’ ///////////// stop