Well,what i meen is i’ve made something like a drawing that looks simuler to his drawing,do you understand?
i will try to be more specific the next time i say something.
i managed to make the bases for both the idlers and i set up 2 different types of the idlers. (both springs would be way overkill) there is lots of power in the srpings and its wicked hard to push bot versions down and put it under the track, but it does its job and its nice and tight
however, i made one with compresion springs and 1 with the extension srpings, i am going to have to cut the compression springs to allow for less power and so the triangle can become low enough to go under the track without snapping my fingers off trying to compress the srpings enough to get them under the track
EDIT:
i am only posting the final product and 1 picture becaseu i am limited to imageshack on this computer, i will up load more later
the track tensioners put enough pressure on the track that i will not have to bolt is done, it sits snugly on top of the stands offs and i can’t even move it
Jared, That looks pretty good. However I see that the paint on your bot is kinda scratched up becuase you painted them before drilling the wholes? I suggest next time to put masking tape over the area you are about to drill if it is already painted, that way it wont scratch. I do this all the time and it works quite nicely. Just a thought if you like your bots to have a clean and nice finished after look.
i know, i actually did the paint know that it would get scrateched, i just wanted to get a layer on the steel to prevents any rusting and the marks arounrd where i driled it the marks made by the grindr from getting rid of the burrs, once i finish the idlers i am going to take apart the entire thing, and re paint it for good, then i will be able to just be able to repaint the inside with the addition of any new holes, which wont be hard
you didnt neccessarily have to paint it to prevent the rust from spreading. When I bought my metal sheets from homedepot, they were brushed and oiled to prevent rusting. If you had done this, it would have prevented you from having to redue it
Still looks really good though, again, just my 0.02, might be worth more or less to you though
yes, mine was oiled too, but it rubbed off, and you didn’t buy the same type of metal as i did, you bought th aluminum sheets i think, and i went with the plate steel which also helps with the factor with the rust
omg… i’m not even going to comment on wowy7. Hes too annoying of a kid and not worth the time.
wow! Excellent work jared! One sexy track. Except, won’t it look weird that one track sticks like 3" into the air?
I still seriously can not believe that the track is too short if you remove one piece. Aren’t both sides identical? Shouldn’t the same size track fit on both sides? Or did you drill the holes in the incorrect spot?
I think you should order some more track and make another track tensioner on the other side so it looks cool.
Oh, theres one major flaw just to let you know. There are large holes at the top of the horizontal beam. You probably used them to get the threads in… But, if the spring comes off or the rover takes a nasty fall, the threads might pop out of the hole and the entire tensioner would fail
Oh, jared, I don’t think 2048 x 1536 is a large enough photo It’s only 3.1MP. =P
lmao, im going to do it with both sidesu crazy silly man , i like symetrical…ness
yes, i accicently drilled them in the wrong place, a bit frustrating eh?
i have plenty of trakc and im making another tensioner lol, i made 2 tensioners xD
the horizontal holes, right, i cut those so that i could get the band saw blade into there to cut the slots , i know its not really pretty but its the only way i could do it , i dont think they will pose too much problems though because 1. its hard enough for me to pull the base (of the triangle) out against the spring and i really dont think it will pose a problem of a nasty fall popping them out 2. and the spring will not come off, i have a bolt thourgh the circle on the end
i think i might remake these though, they came out pretty good and all, but it would be much easier to deal with if it were just 1 spring in each tensioner, i underestimated the strength of the springs and i think i can get away with just 1 extension spring in each, also im going to only put in a single slot in each one tensioner, it greatly reduces the complicatlity (its a real word i swear ) also i will make one side of the spring on an adjustable screw, with different drill holes so i can adjust the spring for different strength settings this why i can also use just a u channel instead of making one