X.3 ROver

by now i have finished my X.2 and wanted
to move on

so i was going to mod the X.2 and put tracks on it
and cam up with a realy good idea(^_^)

thats were the idea X.3 ROver (RO as in robot & ver as in rover

so what i am going to do is build a micro version of the X.2
(with tracks) and a micro pinhole camara wireless

i allready have some treads so i am not realy focused on that right now
i just want to know were i can get some very tiny gear motors
or modify the pico servos for continuses rotation

so any ways were can i get some of those as said above?

The Bad News: Very, very small gearhead motors are not going to be particularly cheap. As the size goes down, the precision involved in making them goes up, as does the price. About the most affordable micro-motors I know of are available from Solarbotics, at almost $10 a pop. I should also point out that these also don’t come as continuous rotation, and need to be modified before they can be used to drive wheels or tiny little tracks.

The Good News: If by “the pico servos”, you mean the B-8 micros that you recently got for $9 each, it looks as though they can be modified for full rotation, provided you are willing to get a little bit “creative” in the conversion process, but only at the price of having to do a whole lot of modification and re-engineering, in order to end up with something that will probably only be marginally capable.

I just opened one up to have a look, and aside from the case screws that are literally smaller than straightpins, had few problems getting into it. The circuitboard is no larger than the 16-pin surface-mount chip soldered to one side of it, and is floating inside the case, held in place by the wires. As with most servo designs, two go to the motor, three to the feedback pot, and three lead out to the pigtail. Aside from the small size, access to the wires should be no problem, as the circuitry is not encased in anything at all. When I rewired my Lynx-6 arm’s servos, I was hindered by the fact that the signal wires are encased in a blob of epoxy as a strain relief, but this is not the case with these little servos - the only strain relief here is the slight pinch-point where the wire enters the case.

The Bad News Abut The Good News: The final gear and output shaft are press-fit onto the shaft of the feedback pot, which acts as the “inside” support point for the shaft. There’s another gear that shares this shaft, spinning freely on it. In order to bypass the feedback and make it a full-rotation unit, you’ll need to replace the pot with a resistor bridge or external pot, and cut down a couple of plastic stops in the body of the feedback pot so that the shaft can spin freely through 360 degrees. There will then be a question of the wiper contact having three “speed bumps” around the perimeter of the track, where the three wires connected to the pot’s resistive element. I suppose that it could be done, but it would involve extremely fiddly work on very small things - about 1mm or less.

Strange Gears: If that weren’t enough, the physical stops that keep the output shaft from rotating freely are made up of a combination of the case and the final output gear. While the gear itself has teeth running all the way around its circumference, half of it has teeth that run all the way up its height of about 4mm, while the other half has teeth that are only 1.5mm high. This allows that part of the gear to pass under the stop, while the taller teeth contact it and stop its rotation. If you were to trim off the rotation stop on the case (about 1 x 2 x 2mm, recessed into the case by about 8mm - you’ll need a fine burr on a Dremel tool, or a lot of fiddling with an x-acto knife), you’d still only get full-height teeth for half the output shaft’s rotation, and 1/3 height teeth for the other half, dramatically reducing the amount of abuse that they can take without stripping gears.

In Other Words: you could convert them to continuous rotation, but you probably wouldn’t want to.

Good luck finding small motors that fit your needs - you may well find that there’s a very good reason why many people stick with standard-sized servos and the like, only building super-mini versions of their robots after several larger proof-of-concept models: Small is usually expensive.

If you really want to get small, get four of the below RC tanks for $14 and use them for the basic chassis of the ROV.

hobbytron.com/mini-rc-tanks.html

And you always have 3 to play with :smiley:

well it woudn’t hurt
to go with my own design i meen
i know its creative to mod a micro tank
but this thing that im working on is going to be realy saphistacaded
it’s going to have wireless cameras pan & tilt conttrolled by RF frequencies
from long distances

and the size is at least 2/4" hight X 4" in length
so its going to be a little bigger than one of those micro tanks
but thats not what i am asking

all i want to know is what i should use for
the tracks? motors or servos? :confused:

i think that this could work lynxmotion.com/Product.aspx?productID=102&CategoryID=72

just use some H-bridges with it and youd be good, and its not very big either, personally, this is what id go with over the servos :slight_smile:

OH my gosh
i was waiting forever for them to come back in stock
but i got tired of checking every day
anyways
do you know how big it is?

would deffinately work, mind you maybe not with the LM tracks, but if you had some Tamiya tracks, YEAHHHHH :smiling_imp: :imp: :smiling_imp:

robotshop.ca/home/products/r … l-set.html

he could probably hook up the hubs that go with the tracks he has to this

well im not using LM track the tracks that i am using are realy tiny!

but…
i think that the LM sprockets
would fit perfectly on the track that i am using 8)

ohhh, really? id double check on that, maybe post an image of the track you plan to use?

sure
ill have the image in by tomorrow :slight_smile:

:slight_smile: sweet, im only worried because jims spockets dont line up straight, the teeth i mean, they’re offset set everyother one…i think :confused:

if anyone could confirm this, please do, i dont want to should like more of an idiot :laughing:

The standard form-factor Hitec HS-422 servos are approximately 1.50(l) x 0.75(w) x 1.50(h) inches, are easily modified for full-rotation use, and have loads of torque - far more than you would need for something that size. Placing two of them back-to-back gives you an easily-controllable gearmotor pair that measures a little less than 3.50 inches wide, with 1.50- and 0.75-inch dimensions in length and height, depending on how you orient the pair of servos.

If you’re set on building a base with treads, you can get tracks that mesh with drive sprockets made specifically to mount on servo horns, or the output shafts themselves.

You’re telling us little bits and pieces about what you’re trying to accomplish, but we can only help so much without details. Measurements and an accurate description of the treads you are planning to use would be good. Photos would be better yet. Photos and measurements would be great.

In the interest of pictures being worth 1024 words :wink: , I’ve got a set of photos of the dissection of one of those little B-8 micro servos. I can send the photo links to anyone who would like to check them out, or if there is interest, I can post them to a new thread in the General Electronics forum.

I just thought of something. Buy two of the 14.00$$ motors from LM (the one’s chunga suggested) and solder them into pairs to give your ROver bot some more Humph to move all of the onboard components. If you really want it to be sophisticated 4WD is a must :smiley:

Looking at the same gearbox from different sources, they list it as being 75 x 24 x 34mm (2.95 x 0.95 x 1.33 inches). That 3-inch measurement may bust the form-factor that he’s trying to stay within (stated: “at least 2/4” hight X 4" in length"), if he tries to use two of them. Still, with treads, you only really need to drive one end, and the power is transmitted over the entire track’s length. Depending on how he assembles them, he can probably get enough torque to drive the thing using just one gearbox. After all, the way it’s being described, it just sounds like a tracked base, camera, pan-tilt platform, receiver, and a battery to supply the electrons for it all. It probably shouldn’t require all that much power to move it around.

Still, without more information on the treads and/or construction he’s planning to use, it’s hard to really know what will suffice, what won’t, and what would be overkill.

id have to agree with you there, im pretty sure that one gear box would suffice as lone as he made the tracks meash fine and they line up right so that the tracks are straight

all right change of plan
now i am going to use the micro
servos (B-8’s)
and use four of them!


/----\
|O O|
-----/
----