The DX5 is a dumb radio like the laser 4 and 6. No programming features at all. I haven’t done any hacking on the DX5 lately.
Multiwii does all the mixing Inside the controller… so you don’t need any fancy controller.
You can buy a PPM encoder to your Receiver.
Something like that (a bit expensive that one)
store.diydrones.com/product_p/br-ppme.htm
“my my, i must say sir 'you have been busy”
Lots of post. thanks for the input here.
Eric, You’v sold it to me. 
What sort of price could i get a fully integrated “DiaLFonZo-Copter” board **COMPLETE **with all this fancy stuff you have spoken about, that will work for a unit such as this?
:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: Let me say that i am in touch with someone who may produce my own IMU…
i very much look forward to that.
iv ordered a few Gyro’s to test their performance. Also i have been looking at materials and ways to fabricate the sphere. i have a few different ideas in mind, so ill see what’s more cost effective.
LIGHT… Keep it … LIGHT… 
I do think depron sheet glue together could be the answer on that.
(You sill lead me to make one myself… If i can make the damn CNC cut… i could cut some “Puzzle” part in depron)
Or Wall insulation foam… like 2" and can be sculpted…
Expanded foam PVC… Trade name Versacell or Sintra.
I was thinking that this material was mostly “Plastic” not foam ?
Sintra® is the brand name for Alusuise Composites’ rigid PVC (poly vinyl chloride) foam board2, a moderately expanded, closed-cell PVC sheet.
I realy need to order some of that…
I do think it will be easy cut on CNC.
The Depron is a really light foam material.
im going to be using 5mm Matt BLACK PVC FOAM Board (Sintra®)
Sheet sizes ill order are: 420 x 297 (A3)
iv just done a test and 5mm will form with the correct heat. 
yes i would have thought you can CNC but it might leave a bad edge as it might get to hot.
The foam is where they add air to the batter before they extrude it. It is much lighter than abs or other similar plastics. I used it for all of my robots in the beginning. It is very friendly to CNC!
cool. well i dont have a CNC 
so again ill be cutting mine by hand again. I have designed the parts that fit together to form the sphere, but i wont be ordering the sheets just yet. id like to test the electronics first.
Send me quick drawing
quite honestly it wouldn’t make sense at the moment. also the design i have done might need to change so i can fit the parts on as least sheets as needed. the pictures i have done contain full arc parts and id need several of these and they wont fit on the sheet. im now dividing the parts up and making them more universal so that they can be fitted anyway and to any part.
It consist of one Equator Plate with gaps cut out to allow the air to flow through it, and to allow the flaps to move between the frame.
Attached to the top of the Equator Plate are Hemisphere shape frames that are made from 2 main Interlocking Arcs and 4 quarter size Arcs that all interlock at the top with a small Round Plate. The bottom is the same as the top but once the Air surfaces have been added it will make them look different.
Halfway between the Equator plate and the Top Round Plate (or bottom) is another notched Disc that will house the Air surfaces and give the structure more strength
Still need a drawing?
The size of sheets i been looking at are 420x297.
if i was to cut strips out (420x5mm) from this i would only need one sheet to form the outer frame.
Sato’s, sphere is 420mm in diameter, and i feel this is an ideal size. To get this size i would need to cut the arc shapes out of the sheets in stead of cutting strips and bending them. This would mean id need lots of sheets with a lot of waste material being left over.
After forming these strips into arcs it will make the diameter of the sphere 267mm. A bit small.
I have found another supplier that do 5mm Matt WHITE PVC FOAM Board 500 x 500.
After forming the Strips (500x5mm) into arcs i can get a Diameter of 318mm… Perfect!
ok a small up date: 
Spoilers:
The spoilers are passive devices that respond to the relative wind
They are hinged from the outer cage of the craft. The spoilers are capture so that they cannot tip outward, only upward, horizontal (into the plain of the propeller, or downward. there are 8 spoilers that I can identify and if you consider how they work it only allows for the spoilers at the top, placed just outside of the plain of rotation of the propeller.
In a hover the inflow of air into the propeller disk draws the spoiler into a horizontal position. When the craft gently tips, let say to the left, the relative wind changes, the spoilers on the left stay in the horizontal position, but the spoilers on the right side drop down, but cannot swing outward since they are block from rotating any further by the outer cage of the sphere.
The slight rotating motions of the sphere disturbs the inflow of air into the prop. The spoilers are placed at the exact location (distance from the outer edge of the prop) that will allow for the release from the horizontal position with a very slight change in relative wind. The drooped spoiler now act as air brakes/spoilers to slow down the rotation (tilting) of the craft to the left. They are aerodynamic dampeners.
When the craft is flying in the horizontal mode, (sprint mode) the relative wind drops all of the spoiler, reducing this drag. It is completely automatic and adjusts itself accordingly. In sprint mode you don’t need the dampeners. When you return to hover mode the relative wind pulls the spoiler back into the horizontal position, deactivating them until the craft is tilted in some direction.
It is very easy to see how these spoilers work by simply holding a few sticks of burning incense up to a spinning prop, or hold a sheet of paper up to the side of a prop. They will be drawing directly into the plain of the propeller. If you back away for the prop you see the paper drop vertically just like the spoiler. This is a very clever device! They are a passive stability system.
Control:
Regarding the Japanese flying ball, the upper control surfaces are in line with the CG so they produce no pitching/roll moment, only yaw control. The lower set of surfaces as you can see from the one vids i posted, works in unison for pitch, roll, and yaw control. at least that is my best estimate as to what is going on for control deflection.
I suspect that the upper set of control (yaw) surfaces may be working with the Yaw rate gyro, the lower set of control surfaces work with the pitch and roll control rate gyros, but not the yaw rate gyro. so the lower set of surfaces are available for an increase of yaw control rate if so required by the pilot, but otherwise the upper set of surfaces actively control the yaw axis.
The lower set of control surface actively control pitch and roll via gyro control, but maybe employed for an increase in yaw control. Yaw function on the lower set of surfaces are not controlled via gyro’s.
Why break out the yaw control onto separate surfaces that are in- line with the CG (ie the upper set of control surfaces)? By doing this the yaw control moments don’t affect the pitch and roll moments for more precise hover control. yaw control is best situated on the CG, and the pitch and roll control need to me at a maximum distance from the CG to increase their moments of control (power).
my conclusions are that having the 8 servo motors control 3 axis of movement just seems a bit overkill on weight and more importantly… Power.
so iv been looking into way to reduce the servos down for the Yaw control. (The top set of surfaces).
Here is a design that would work very well:
There would be rather alot of moving parts and so from this i was looking to reduce it further.
is there an available gear set that i can buy that will fit the Standard size spline?
The gears would need to be able to change the out put rotations by 90º.
Something like these:
one thing i was thinking of was to just find some plastic gears and screw mount them directly to the horn but that will look … Poor!
any ideas?
