Here are the wheel pics! 
Brass wheel with silicone tread.
http://www.lee.tomszuba.com/panther/silicone_wheel.jpg
Both wheels with the lump from the bottom of the mixing cup.
http://www.lee.tomszuba.com/panther/wheels_silicone.jpg
The hubs on the lump showing my crappy machining.
http://www.lee.tomszuba.com/panther/hub_silicone.jpg
More of the hubs.
http://www.lee.tomszuba.com/panther/hub_silicone2.jpg
What do you think???
I just saw your stuff! very nice work! I had to use my pocket pc phone to see the tiny images but hey, I got to see it!
NICE! How did you do it? Can you share some tricks of the trade???
Also, could this method be used for other kinds of rubber?
lucky, u have a machine shop 
l i want one
I only gotsa drill press …and a desk drinder 
I do have a mill and a lathe that really helped out when I was making the brass hubs and the mold but it is possible to make a mold with other various tubing and round things. I’m sure it could be used for other rubber but you may need a mold realese.My method was very similar to the brooks bots website but I only cast one wheel at a time.
Using the dragon skin you have to mix very carefully to avoid bubbles, unless you can buy a $1000 vacuum chamber to do 25 cent wheels.
I’m sure you could do this with a drill press. You would just have to buy premade wheels.
just curious and I don’t want to derail the thread to any significant degree… but how much vacuum do you need? could you cheat and use a shop vac?
I have used a “foodsaver” vacuum sealer and a large storage cannister attachment (with a big sticker on it that it is not to be used for food) to de-air silicone molds, and dental plaster and resin castings.
Admittedly, I haven’t worked with the same silicone product that is being discussed here, and the same technique may or may not work due to differences in viscosity, but with the stuff I usually work with, the foodsaver does a good job of pulling a vacuum that’s strong enough to dislodge and remove the bubbles fairly reliably. I usually combine the vacuum with the good old “smack the mold around a bit” technique, just to be sure, though with some molds and/or castings, getting a bit too enthusiastic can dislodge more than just bubbles and cause you to need a re-cast.
I don’t think you could use a shop vac but it’s worth trying. I find the best thing is just to be carful mixing to avoid bubbles in the first place, A couple little bubbles are not worth the hassle.
My panther minisumo redesign is almost done!
I have the holes cut for the object sensors. Brackes for the blade to mount on the top and bottom so I don’t have to fiddle with nuts. The brackets are custom machined. The bottom one is brass for the extra weight and the top is aluminum so it doesn’t do wheelies.
And I am done populating the curcuit board.
I think I might have to do the wheels over again because they rub on the chassis. And I have to cast two more tires.
Pics if anyone wants.
You have to ask?
Bring 'em on!
VERY nice job with the PCB! If you don’t mind me asking how did you make it? I can’t seem to find any DIY methods that don’t require a laser printer.
He made them using a simple program and a compagny made them for him. He got 4 of these PCB.
Here are example of website that offer this service.
expresspcb
pcbexpress
pcb123
apcircuits
etc.
I am guessing he got this made in Alberta since he lives in Toronto.
I will be at the CNRG this November!
Jerome
ps- This is my first post so I can not post u.r.l
Ahhh… I see. Normally when you get custom made PCBs they use a green coating which protects the PCB. Without it, PCBs look DIY-Yellow or DIY-White. His looked yellow so I thought he made them himself.
I used sunstone circuits. I did not want to go with any of the extra features because it is double the price. I used gift cards from last year’s CNRG.
Jerome; have you been to CNRG before? What are some of your robots?
If you were there you may remember Spacejunk or Mini Muncher. Or maybe Toddler.
See you in November!
Ahh, I see. For future reference… If you need PCBs made and don’t have any gift cards then use batchpcb.com! They charge only $2.5 per square inch. Its cheap man!! A $22 board from batchpcb was quoted $75 by sunstone.
I know, I was almost regretting using sunstone because of the price for a simple PCB. Batch PCB gets expensive in big numbers, thats where the bigger companies are better.
Also my software can not do solder mask layers.
PS an equal board is $200 form sunstone
Hey,
One important note about batchpcb is that there are slow for Canada user. I read on a forum that it took more the 1 month to get his PCB! He lives in Alberta. Quote from there FAQ
Jerome; have you been to CNRG before? What are some of your robots?
Yes I was there last year with Robomontreal and I saw YOU! MUWAHAHAHAHA!
My robot was the cube
youtube.com/watch?v=qNTiDmnW7FE
Check my video on youtube!
youtube.com/jeromedemers
This is my 3kg sumo RHINO!
youtube.com/watch?v=bfs3wGuxiQk
I am know making a other 3kg sumo robot. I will not bring Rhino the the CNRG.
I am making a 500gr advanced sumo robot to beat Windshield. I had some serious problems with electronics, it took me more then 4 days to find the problem!! My pic was working and motor spinning. When I connected my sensor board to the PICPCB, everything stop working! I tested everything and then soldered a 100uf cap to the circuit and the problems was solved!!!
My robot is now moving in the ring without falling off!!! I will test the sensor this week.
I will make a normal sumo robot for the non-advance robot to beat you!
Are you in the advance or normal sumo?
Good luck!
ps- I don’t know if I will post pictures 
TOP SECRET!
Check out Luis video of the 500gr sumo at Robogames2007
youtube.com/watch?v=fgcqJKdQGCM
AWESOME!!!
Jerome
CNRG is Open and Masters. I will be in open, as always. Masters is a lot harder, diffrent rules too. I had a problem with not being able to porgram that took me a week to fix. All I had to do was switch two wires on my programmer!
Prepare to LOSE!!!
