I think there are too many variables for this to be a true blanket statement. Like the battery catch 22, this would depend on Model Weight, Motor power/rpm’s, prop diameter/pitch.
It all comes down to a balancing act. If longest flight time is your goal, you need a motor/prop combination that can not only lift the combined (total) weight but have a little “extra” to still fly and do so as efficiently as possible. With the larger V-Tails/Quads there are a lot of motor/KV options with a lot of prop combinations that can be worked to achieve this.
From what I have read so far, for a motor that fits “In” the mount, we have 3 viable(?) options; MT/RCX 1306-2 2300kv (Haven’t seen anyone flying these yet) & Suppo 1510. Props seem to be universally 5030’s. Note; One member on here (cdraptor) is using a 1806 motor with the mounting arms upside down. The 1806 size will give you more options both with kv and props.
The way I am looking at it (without spending a ton of money on the T Motors). With the motors in the housing the RCX 1306 (needs validation)/Suppo 1510 option we are locked into that motor/prop combo. The only other area we can look to increase flight times is the battery. I am sure the Model will handle a larger battery for longer flight times at the loss of agility. There just hasnt been a post about “Long” flight times and what was used.
I am excited. All my parts are on order. Just need to decide on a TX now.
It was a hurry up and wait for pay day. Now its a hurry up and wait for everything to come in.
This multiwii board is driving me crazy. I used the v-tail file, but the motor rotation in the rear is incorrect, and the motor speed are uneven (rear left drops gradually). any one have a link to a better file to use?
calibrated everything several times. no luck. Today I tried the Arduino software, and v-tail config. Seems more stable for the motor speeds. In the mwii config it shows as a v-tail instead of quad x, but still the rotation is incorrect in the rear. I swapped the esc connections to the board, and still nothing. So i went ahead and just flipped the entire tail. (one piece) so now esc, and motor are on opposite sides. It seems the the direction of rotations problem is in the esc (s) not the board. testing now it seems to be working. I let you know whats the out come. I taking her out in the yard now.
You should definitely look at the manual for VTail on the Lynxmotion website.
To avoid a crash, we’d strongly suggest you send us an image of the quad here before flying.
To change motor rotation, you need to swap any 2 (of the 3) motor wires to the esc.
It sounds to me that you just swapped the positive and negative wires to the FC Board.
My recomendation is to make sure Positive from FC board goes to positive on ESC. Same with negative. If you still get the wrong rotation on a motor, follow the first line in this post. This switch takes place between the ESC and the Motor.
I swapped the esc positions on the board. polarity is still the same nothing would function otherwise. The situation seems to be that the esc is either pre-programmed for direction or the board is the one programmed for direction. by swapping the positions it did not change the direction meaning that it is in the esc (direction). Later the esc position swap remained because some how it is reverse to the reading of the gyro. (meaning: the V-tail wanted to flip because she thinks she’s inside down.
this is the final outcome, now time for lots of practice
It seems like you have it working properly. You can play a little with the PID settings, but it looks like the setup is correct.
Try a windless day in a soccer field or park.
That little “hop” at 2:48 is really cute.
First, let me say this is my first Quad. Second, I didn’t realize how small this thing actually is (Can’t tell from photos online), especially the components. This is the most involved model I have ever built.
Specs; Lynxmotion Hunter Mini-VTail Motors;RCX 1306-2 2300KV Flight Controler; Flip32 ESC;RTF Mini “4-in-1” 12-Amp ESC Receiver;Lemon 6-Channel Receiver (No Pin) Props; 5030 Hardware/Misc;
Lynxmotion; Aluminum Hex Standoffs (F/F) - 1/4" x 3/16" (4-40 Tapped) (10)
Fastener-Express; 4-40 x 3/16 Button Head Socket Screws - Purple, 4-40 Sm Pat 3/16 Hex LockNut - Purple, 5mm Hex Lock Nut Aluminum,Low Profile - Purple
Ready to Fly Quads; ReadyToFlyQuads Bluetooth Module for Android Configuration, Break Away Headers - Right Angle 3x40, Color Pin headers 1x40
Build Notes;
Lemon Flip32; This is not my idea. I got the concept from RCG Member Soma who did this with a Flip Board. Soma has a video online about the low profile pin headers that I incorporated.
Also the Lemon Flip32 had been previously done by RCG Member Argotera. One note about soldering the Lemon RX to the Flip32 board, you have to remap the outputs in Baseflight CLI. The RX outputs do not match the Flight Controller inputs. It is an easy fix, the command to enter for the correct alignment in the CLI is; map 21reat34. Don’t forget to “Save” after.
This really makes a low profile/compact unit and eliminates a lot of wires.
I also changed the orientation of the board. I wanted the receiver at the front of the board, and the Motor Outputs at the back. This was an easy thing to program in the Baseflight CLI as well. The Command is; set align_board_yaw = 270. Again “Save” after. I chose not to go with a satellite receiver because I am using that portion of the board for BlueTooth.
I also had to modify the rear landing gear on the model. With the motor pins coming out the back, they would hit the landing gear. I cut a notch out to allow the wires and plugs to “Slide” into position.
I wanted a Low Profile set up, so I mounted the Flight Control Board under the “Middle” plate.
RTF Mini “4-in-1” 12-Amp ESC; When I ran across this item it just clicked in my head. I liked the concept, and it has a serial cable (Only 6 wires) that plugs into the unit, then into the 6 pins on the Flight Controler. Using the 45 degree holes I put 1/4 inch standoffs to mount the ESC under the flight control board. I ran into clearance issues with the output plug on the ESC being in the way of the rear most stand off. So I eliminated the standoff and the ESC is now only held with 3 standoffs.
I personally did not like the look of the 1 inch standoffs for the top plate, so I used 1/4 inch standoffs.
So this is where I am with the build. I am waiting for a TX to come in from China. Then I can finish up the Programming, and learn to fly this thing.
Thanks Mr. Benson.
I’m almost at a stable hover in the room, so I think I’m ready for the out doors. I’ve been through four sets of props .
I swapped my 3s 1100 45c for a 3s 2200 65c~130c peak (Turnigy A-spec 2.2). it’s an extra 40g, but the power, and time is a boost. Can’t really say flight times yet, but dead ground lifts are: 6 with the 1100, and 15+ with the 2200. I imagine it takes more power to get lift than it does to maintain. Correct me please .
Just a little update, we have modified the hardware slightly.
The screws that where holding the center plates where a bit too small since they where selected for 1mm thickness plates and we went back to 1/16 plates.
So now the bag has 15x 1/4" long screws for those…
hey I need some screws for mine. Even with the locktite they pop off. I lost two, and replaced them from home depot.
Here is my first outside flight. I need some work in PID for the pitch. Just a touch and she nose dives throttle makes it worse. I set pitch/roll at - rate 0.51 - expo 0.00. Time to test some more. Bluetooth, and app are needed for sure. have fun. I crash it a lot lol.
This is my first drone/robots project so i’m not sure if this is OK or not (opening the motor opening in the frame with a reamer): i.imgur.com/x6ISVCH.jpg
The motors are Space One 1806 2300KV. I wanted to try to modify the arm to accommodate the motor before flipping it over as i’ve seen mentioned. However i’m not sure how much room I need between the motor body and the inside edge of the frame… from spinning with my finger it feels like its not touching. I’m still waiting on a battery so i’m not sure that I can spin one up, but should I expect slight movement when its actually flying? i.e. is it possible the motors are not touching the frame as it sits, but under other circumstances the spinning motors would touch? Or if the touch is that slight should it just kinda wear away quickly? Or will this setup not work for other reasons?
Well the back mounting pieces are even more frail and thin than the front ones. I’ve already broke the first set while just barely getting them large enough to fit the motors. If there was some way to reinforce the small strip between the bolt hole and the motor hole it might be able to work, but I’m not sure what I’ll try. I’m considering the obvious jb weld or super glue.
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