I checked the manual 3, but
I checked the manual 3, but it still does not show how to control many servos at the same time!!!
Tip: Use the âReplyâ feature
Tip: Use the âReplyâ feature when responding to a comment, so a group of associated posts will appear as a threaded conversation.
You have asked a lot of questions on this post, and they are starting to drift off the topic of the start here robot. You may want to post your questions on their own forum, and provide some details on what you are trying to do.Â
**got it **
got it
Â
hey fristl I have been
hey fristl I have been trying to connect a LED the whole day in vain âŠwhat do you mean by âYou could also attach a lamp or LED to pin 2 & groundâ I think I fried a few can u give me a reference pic for this as to wer the 2 wire thingies of the LED should be attached?
i checked https://www.robotshop.com/letsmakerobots/node/24218 out but it did not give info on how to connect to picaxe board
sory i keep asking many questions
got it working 
by trail
got it working by trail and error fried 4 LEDs 
Cool thatâs how most of us
Cool thatâs how most of us did it 
You can help the next person by submitting a picture of how you did it / explain how you did it.
Telling what you have learned is so much better than asking before trying
Just have to careful not to
Just have to careful not to put any of the legs of the LEDs into the pins between the 2 highlighted spaces. Just solder a pin into the ground region and attach the LED to that and the pin on the V2 region corresponding it(like the arrows show). Dont have to worry about putting the wrong end, it usually wont get fried unless there is a huge voltage. Always use a resistor.
more info :Â https://www.robotshop.com/letsmakerobots/node/75
Actually this is not the
Actually this is not the best way to do it. You are not connecting straight to a pin on the microcontroller there, but to a pin on the Darlington. Sorry, no time for making tutorial of where output pins are, but they are the ones between the Picaxe chip and the Darlington.
Alternatively, use the input pins, use them as output, refer to the manual for how to do so
If you connect straight to the Picaxe, with most LEDâs you will not need a resistor.
isnt that a gud thing i mean
isnt that a gud thing i mean no need of resistor but full control of the LED
works fine for me
time for a buzzer
also is it possible to put resistors for the Sharp IR sensors so that i can use 4x1.5V batteries so that the motors can drive faster??
because now its going really slow!!
There is just as much
There is just as much control over the LED if it is running right from the Picaxe.
It is time for you to learn and understand the principles regarding V1 and V2.
Read this: https://www.robotshop.com/letsmakerobots/node/75 (again)
The Sharp should run on V1, the Motors on V2.
You should not put resistors on the Sharp, because if it is getting too much power (before the resistor), then so will the Picaxe.
To get the motors to run faster, use different gearing, or larger wheels. Or have 2 powers sources: You can give the V2 12V if you want, but you should read into the documentation, it is too much to ask for here, we might as well post all the manuals for you then - This tutorial is to get you started, but as I think a couple of others have told you before me; Read the manuals.
Try to ask when stuck because you do not understand the manuals, not because you have not read them, thanks
yay got 2 LEDs working 1
yay got 2 LEDs working 1 flashes wen sumthin is detected the other 1 is on until it detects sum obstacle
so happy I put a pin to 4 but i realised I cant put an LED der because âhigh 4â is already being used by the motor 
lmr bundle add ons?
can i add a real time clock to the lmr bundle. Aka: the start here robot you made.
lcd for lmr bundle
could i also add lcd lights? if i can, how? lmr bundle
An RTC? No prob.
Itâs one of the reasons to start with a big-boy sized PICAXE and not a lesser one!
I recommend the popular Maxim DS1307 real time clock. It uses the handy I2C 2-wire communications protocol. If you have many sensors that talk I2C, they can all share the same I2C wires. It might be a bit advanecd at this point but if youâre toying with using an RTC, you might as well see what youâre in for Just so you know, youâre in for a learning curve. Fortunately, there is a lot of info out there for running a DS1307 off a PICAXE if you get stuck.
I recommend reading the PICAXE I2C manual (as well as the I2C commands in manual 2). The I2C manual shows how to hook up an I2C LCD display as well as the 1307.
LCDs or LEDs?
LCD=Liquid Crystal Display; e.g. a calculator display.
LED=Light Emitting Diode; e.g. almost every blinky light on every robot on this site.
If itâs an LCD you want. I say to go with phanderson.comâs 16x2 backlit package. Itâs inexpensive, uses a ubiquitous LCD display, and it uses a simple serial command set that is (for the learned) easy to understand. To become learned you must only learn serial communication (see commands SERIN and SEROUT in PICAXE manual 2).
For LEDs, I point you to page 7 of the PICAXE Manual 1.
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if i order the lmr bundle,
if i order the lmr bundle, will it come with the eyes and g1d12 cable?
or will i have to buy it seperately? also how do i install the dpdt micro top-mount slide switch?
please answer a.s.a.p
They link to the sensor
They link to the sensor information on the Solarboticâs SHR kit page. Per its description:
"Note: Item no longer includes GP2D12 cable."
There is no DPDT switch with the kit, just FYI. If you want to install one as a power switch, read on further down the comments. ignoblegnome addresses that topic not but six days ago.Â
but where will i get another
but where will i get another cable for the range finger? does it come qith rangefinder without cable, or withou both?
i meant rangefinder
i meant rangefinder
do i buy nw range finder and
do i buy nw range finder and cable or di just have to buy the cable?