This is a little how-to guide on crimping connectors for various electronics projects. The art of crimping is sometimes a difficult one, but necessary for 1) reliable and 2) decent looking connections. Breadboards are nice for quick wiring projects but in the long run they are unreliable and look p
I find I get a stronger connection if I double over the stripped wire and run half of it under the insulated bit in the insulation channel. This way I have doubled over bit in the wire channel and the stripped conductor making contact along the full length of the bottom of both channels. It more difficult to pull the terminal off as it is then pulling against the grain of the wire strand as well as having to unloop the wire.
The links to the Jameco catalog are broken. Since vendors tend to constantly change their websites, it’s probably better to simply mention part names and numbers instead of directly linking to their catalog.
Heya just wanted to give you a brief heads up and let you know a
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This is a great how-to. I find that sometimes the crimp over the insulation will actually pinch the wire and cause it to separate from the pin. Typically I eschew using the crimper and use smooth face pliers to wrap the insulation channel around the insulated part of the wire to avoid this problem.
Another good technique is to tin the wire before crimping, then reflow the solder after you crimp. This normally involves using a fine point on the iron and very fine solder.
Also, for Elmer Arguedas, I found the waterproof f-types to be no good. I use a fixed coaxial stripper like ht-302b and a hex crimper like ht-336g for rg-58. They work for 59 as well as crimp rg-6, however, you will need a stripper for rg-6. In a pinch, you can use a razor blade and measure your strips by hand, just be careful not to nick the wire or shielding!