So Sparkfun can make
So Sparkfun can make money?
Jokes aside, I did the same in the beginning. There are some plastic tabs on the socket that I had to remove to make it fit better. Later, I soldered the required resistors directly onto the socket and added some longer pins.
Who knows. I never had any
Who knows. I never had any problems getting the stereo socket to fit and stay in place. I was surprised at how easily it popped in. I eventually soldered wires onto it so it didn’t take up 5 spots on my breadboard. When I got my motor driver, picaxe chip, and servo installed it took up a lot of room!
can u help me to connect my
can u help me to connect my usc cable to the picaxe, coz i have tried everything it doesnt work. im doing the test program, bt the led doesnt oscillate.
plzz help me tanx.
What chip are you using here
What chip are you using here is the datasheet on this stereo socket that shows which pin connects to the PICAXE.
http://www.rev-ed.co.uk/docs/AXE001_pinout.pdf
If you need a more detailed response please be more detailed in how you have it connected. Post some photos or a drawing showing pics on the stereo socket and how they are connected to the chip. Also post which chip you are using 28x, 8m, etc.
i just tried this some days
i just tried this some days ago, not following this post’s instruction though, as i didn’t know about it. I can’t get it to work and don’t really know how. I’ve set up the enhanced download circuit. I’ll try with the reset switch tomorrow
I havent ever used a reset
I havent ever used a reset switch. I just unplug the battery because I’m lazy.
it’s just an additional tool
it’s just an additional tool to help prototype. I have one and use it for multiple bb’s that have different setups.
i too unlpug the battery via
i too unlpug the battery via a switch, but sometimes (i don’t really know why) i have to hold down the reset switch (that is on my picaxe board, not on the breadboarded prototype which i haven’t tried yet).
Bad news chaps (actually bad new for me 
).
the circuit i’m using appears to be working fine, it’s the chip that doesn’t work (the other one works correctly). It is a pic16f872 (the non-working one). I don’t really know what to do know.
I’m gonna open a new thread as this one is not the right one for the discussion of this problem.
All the feedback i can give is that i tried the enhanced download circuit and it works great!
** I really dont get the**
I really dont get the whole "home made board thing" so im gonna fire up some Questions.
I ordered a Picaxe 08 and a picaxe 18.
Do these need resistors? I mean… can i just hook it up to the sterio socket and everything works Presto?
Thanks in advance,
/Nick
the datasheet says to use
the datasheet says to use resistors. I wired it up without them but it can damage the picaxe. I really should edit this walkthrough to use resistors.
** Uh… great. now i need**
Uh… great.
now i need resistors… iv got a whole ton from Trap… but they’re not colur coded ones, so i dont “get” them
/Nick
resistors without coloured bands?
I would like to see that in a picture. That’s something new to me. Are you sure they are not something else?
http://www.rev-ed.co.uk/docs/AXE001_pinout.pdf
You need a 22k and a 10k. If you live near a Radioshack they charge $1 for 5 resistors. So for $2 you have enough for 5 circuits with stereo adapters. I think 5 resistors for $1 is a ripoff, but if you only need a few it isn’t too bad.
/Nick
/Nick
resistors? or capacitors?
Maybe Trap can verify this, but (some of) these look like capacitors. They appear to have numbers on them. They would tell you what the capacitance is. Usually a three digit code "XYZ".
Read XY as usual. Z is telling you what the multiplyer should be. The unit is in picoFarad. For example:
103 would be 10 (ten) times 10^3 (thousand) = ten thousand pF or 10 nF.
474 would be 47 x 10^4 = 470 nF.
But only if these are indeed capacitors… Hope this helps a bit.
8ik
Magnifier or meter
Get a magnifier to see the writing on the resistors, or simply use your multimeter to measure them. Probably marked like caps, but read differently, ie : 104 would be 10 and 4 more 0s to be a 100000 or 100k resistor. 221 would be a 220 ohm resistor.
Sorry about the confusion
Lets say the resitor reads RN55C The 55 means 1/8watt. And if it says 1542F that means 15400 omhs aka 15.4K. Sorry to not let you in on all this i sort of got busy. The reason these do not have color codes is because they are all .1% aka on the money. Every one of them. LOOK
Minimum setup
Like fritz! stated. Minimal setup is listed for every picaxe in manual1.
Basicly: if you’re done programming the picaxe and don’t need the serial connetion, only the pulldown resistor for the serial (10K) in and the pull-up resistor for the reset button (4.7K) are needed. The chips without a reset pin don’t need theresistor off course.
The external resonator or crystal is optional for all models. They all have an internal 4Mhz resonator, but that one is not very accurate. (I hooked up two 08M chips with an LED flashing on and off every second and they get visibly out of sync in about 10 seconds!)
If you do have an external resonator, like on the standard the 28X1 board -> USE THE setfreq em4 command in the init routine. Otherwise the program will ignore the external resonator and default to the internal resonator.
BTW: The picaxe breadboard adapter is very handy. It is just a serial connetor with the proper resistors and a few pins to stick it on the board. I use it to program multiple picaxe chips on one breadboard without creating a spaghetti of resistors and sockets. (http://194.201.138.187/epages/Store.storefront/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Store.TechSupplies/Products/AXE029)
does it have to be does it have to be exactly those resistors?
That is what the datasheet
That is what the datasheet calls for. If you have something close you are likely to be ok.
