Note how there are 5 pins on the socket, but you only really use 3 (serial out, serial in, and ground). The 2 sets of 2 pins get tied together and then they get tied to each other via a 10k ohm resistor. When looking above the socket as shown in the picture the left 2 pins go to ground, the right 2 pins go to serial in via a 22k resistor, then the last pin which is near the opening of the socket goes to serial out.
Basically all this did was help me to learn how to hook up the chip and a stereo socket to a breadboard and get basic output (blinking LED). Hopefully it will help someone else too! Lots of pics to follow so you can see how it is connected. The code follows the pictures.
For help on how to hook up the stereo socket or for what pins do what on the chip click here.
The code assumes you are using output 0 for the LED. If you can't get the editor to connect to your chip make sure you have the com port setting correct.
Click START (lower left corner of your screen)
Right click My Computer
Click Properties
Click Hardware Tab
Click Device Manager Button
Expand the Ports (COM & LPT)
It should have an item called AXE027 PICAXE USB (COMX) X is your COM Port Number
In the editor go to View->Options
Click Seriel Port tab
Select the Com Port you found in step 7 and click OK
Try to transfer the code again.
If it still doesn't work make sure your batteries are charged and connected to the breadboard.
If it STILL doesn't work take a picture that shows the connections and post
For larger more detailed images click here. No fair making fun of my dirty coffee table.
Updated to include new pics using resistors, which should have been there in the first place.
nice, just a advice… when u put a connection in the breadboard, use the most away from the components… normaly most close to the power lines of the breadboard… that way you can easy replace components, count the number of the pins, and test the pins signals with a multimeter.
Nice work. Does the Picaxe not need an external resonator or oscillator crystal? I’ve been interested in this kind of thing, finding the minimum number of components you need for a microcontroller, to shrink it down once you’re building you project. But at least with the Arduino, it looks like you always need at least a voltage regulator for power and resonator or crystal to tell it how fast to run. I guess maybe the Picaxe has that internally?
I’m assuming no because I didn’t use any. My assumption is that it is internal. I guess it is smart enough to run its own clock cycles. Someone with more knowledge would have to chime in.
Don’t sweat the petty things. Don’t pet the sweaty things.
PICAXE is based on PIC from Microchip which still needs 4.8 or 5 volts to operate. If 5V power source is not directly availble then a voltage regulator is needed. I wish that Sketch and Arduino can have an option to use internal OSC and other clock values than fixed at 16Mhz. That would be nice. Definitely using Atmega 168 without Sketch you can set to use internal clock option but it must be developped using the straight compiler and load the code outside Sketch. Sketch is a nice envirnoment that eliminates these separate tools and it also has many handy libraries.
I finally got my Picaxe28X1 and I am trying to get this, the equivelent of a hello world, working. I was reading the datasheets and manuals for the picaxe28 and 28X1 and it tells to wire differently then you have shown here. their method has no connection between the ground and the serial circuit. the one shown above connects pin 8 to the ground as well as one of the connectors comming form the computer.
Is there a difference? is it a big difference and which is better.
UPDATE: I think I got it so never mind but if anyone want s to answer it anyway feel free.
Jokes aside, I did the same in the beginning. There are some plastic tabs on the socket that I had to remove to make it fit better. Later, I soldered the required resistors directly onto the socket and added some longer pins.
Who knows. I never had any Who knows. I never had any problems getting the stereo socket to fit and stay in place. I was surprised at how easily it popped in. I eventually soldered wires onto it so it didn’t take up 5 spots on my breadboard. When I got my motor driver, picaxe chip, and servo installed it took up a lot of room!
can u help me to connect my usc cable to the picaxe, coz i have tried everything it doesnt work. im doing the test program, bt the led doesnt oscillate.
If you need a more detailed response please be more detailed in how you have it connected. Post some photos or a drawing showing pics on the stereo socket and how they are connected to the chip. Also post which chip you are using 28x, 8m, etc.
i just tried this some days i just tried this some days ago, not following this post’s instruction though, as i didn’t know about it. I can’t get it to work and don’t really know how. I’ve set up the enhanced download circuit. I’ll try with the reset switch tomorrow
i too unlpug the battery via a switch, but sometimes (i don’t really know why) i have to hold down the reset switch (that is on my picaxe board, not on the breadboarded prototype which i haven’t tried yet).
Bad news chaps (actually bad new for me ).
the circuit i’m using appears to be working fine, it’s the chip that doesn’t work (the other one works correctly). It is a pic16f872 (the non-working one). I don’t really know what to do know.
I’m gonna open a new thread as this one is not the right one for the discussion of this problem.
All the feedback i can give is that i tried the enhanced download circuit and it works great!
the datasheet says to use the datasheet says to use resistors. I wired it up without them but it can damage the picaxe. I really should edit this walkthrough to use resistors.
