Sounds cool. When do we get to see it walk with the new code?
I was looking at the specs for the TV-IP110W camera and I was wondering what 5vdc switching regulator you were using for it? I am wondering because the specs for this camera says it comes with a 5vdc 2.5a power supply?
Also in case anyone didn’t see this the TV-IP-110W camera is on sale this week with a $30 rebate as well,($80.00 after rebate) both on amazon and newegg’s sites.
Thank You
Hi Charley! Take that spec with a grain of salt. It really only draws around 600mA if I remember correctly. James used a Castle Creations BEC with it.
Hey Jim, long time no see!!
That’s great news, I was trying to figure out what I could use for a regulator when the specs say the thing draws 2.5amps, now I don’t have to worry
Thank You!!
it only seems right to post this here.
congratulation Jim and James for another Lynxmotion feature in ROBOT mag for the Mech. made an interesting read.
again congrats and all the best.
Hi James and Jim,
When I got home from work today I had the new issue of ROBOT. Great to see the mech-brat article! Very interresting! Gratz!
Xan
ps. Good to have a face by your name James

ps. Good to have a face by your name James
btw, we saw Jim in his cool movie a couple of months ago, James is in the current ROBOT issue. So next up is… How about you Beth?
Nice work alround guys looking good.
What happened with this? I noticed a ton of people building BRAT’s for this competition but none of them registered. As a matter of fact they seem to have disappeared little while back? Did they not work? If not then what was the problem?
What happened with this? I noticed a ton of people building BRAT’s for this competition but none of them registered. As a matter of fact they seem to have disappeared little while back? Did they not work? If not then what was the problem?
What happened with this is we did exactly what we set out to do. That was, show that it could be done, and done quite well. That was our goal. I will not speculate as to who did or didn’t register and why. Lots of things are effecting how people spend their money and time these days. Who really knows the reasons people don’t make competitions. But I can tell you this. There is not one forum posts here or anywhere else that I am aware of where someone complained they could not make the BRAT work as a mech. The only person I personally know the reason is Xbrat designer Mark Fedasiuk told me he got overwhelmed at his day job with Intel… People have priorities.
LOL…been offline too long. I actually entered my BRAT into the robo games in San Mateo. Unfortunately, I fried my processor by mixing up the battery leads and could not get a new one in time.
The games were great, cool bots, but I am bummed I did not get to show off my bots prowess at the games. However this April is another opportunity and I intend to be there as a competitor this time!
Nomous
What happened with this? I noticed a ton of people building BRAT’s for this competition but none of them registered. As a matter of fact they seem to have disappeared little while back? Did they not work? If not then what was the problem?
The Brat is one of the most flexible, easy to build, learn, and operate bot you can buy from Lynxmotion, so they work quite well. Reason people might seem to drop of the bot building arena is due to time, money, and priorities. The only person that can stay active is Jim
I have read all ten pages of this BRAT Mech subject several times with great fascination and mourn that it seems to have died out in Nov 2010. So let me ask two simple questions please:
I purchased a BasicMicro red LED "Cylon Eye" strip and note that it is made on a very stiff apparently brittle circuit board. Yet you obviously found a way to curve it to fit around your turret platform. How is it possible to make that board conform to such a curve?
Did this thread transfer somewhere else under a different that I missed?
Thank you, RoboTed
Are you sure the led strip on the brat is the same one? as for the reduction in brat material, this kit has been out for a while now so many of us have already played with it and posted several bits of information on this. The brat is still the best entry level biped you can buy, that hasn’t changed in the slightest. I highly recommend the brat for beginners as well as advanced bot builders. It really is a bot for everyone.

Are you sure the led strip on the brat is the same one?
Mike, Thanks for responding to my question about curving the BasicMicro LED strip. No, I am not sure it is the same strip as pictured on some BRAT Mechs. But I purchased it from Lynxmotion along with some other additional parts for the BRAT my grandson and I are building. Since it looks almost identical, I presumed it was the same. (Does that make a PRESident out of U and ME?) So if anyone knows how to curve it safely, I would still like to know.
You are right about BRAT being a great starting/learning/teaching platform. I have Robonova-1, VEX, NXT, and Pololu Pi. BRAT and SES look to be the most fun. My recently 12 grandson did almost all the physical construction himself, and we are muddling through the electronics and programming together.
Thanks again, Ted
Hello Ted,
I took the time to look at the LED chaser pictured, and it looks to me that all they did was curve the board and fasten it using 2 black zip ties. The circuit board is made of fiberglass and is able flex a small amount. I don’t think by looking at the curvature that it’s too bad, it looks gradual enough that no traces would break. The strip is also narrow making it easier to bend so it should be easy to form a gentle arc. I would not try to form an arc more than what James has done for his brat, because you risk breaking internal traces.
I’m not for sure exactly how James went about installing the LED chaser. You might want to send him a PM message asking how he did. My guess is that he simply attached one side first using a zip tie, and then curved it around and attached the second zip tie. I wouldn’t try to hand form the strip first. Attach one end, and then slowly curve around to align the second hole and attach using a second zip tie. This way the board only has to bend the minimum amount, if you try to hand form the strip, you may have the tendency to bend more than you need to.
I am also pretty sure that James did use the Basic Micro Cylon LED display. I did that as well on mine back then. As Mike mentioned, I would not bend it very much, but it does bend a little…
Kurt
Sorry, but no. I used the Dimension Engineering LED strip. It was much more flexible than the Basic Micro one. I don’t think you’ll be able to replicate the effect with that one.
Sorry, but no. I used the Dimension Engineering LED strip. It was much more flexible than the Basic Micro one. I don’t think you’ll be able to replicate the effect with that one.
Whoa! Thanks for catching me; I was trying to figure how to soften it with a torch because the boiling water wasn’t working.
Did you use Dimension Engineering’s Sinewinder? (It looks very similar to the Basic Micro strip.) On their site they link it to your CH3-R video, but it is mounted flat, so flexibility isn’t indicated. Or did you use their DELight Strip LED, and if so, did you also need its controller or use it alone?
Thanks, Ted

Whoa! Thanks for catching me; I was trying to figure how to soften it with a torch because the boiling water wasn’t working.
Ummm…

Did you use Dimension Engineering’s Sinewinder?
Yup. It’s the only one on our website! You can just plug it into the bot board. You don’t need any other controllers.