Well for the heck of it I did order two of these from toys east. As for autonomous, I may later use one of these. It would be fun to start with the rover body, add on tank treads, put on the base rotate kit, add a pan/tilt like mechanism with add the gun on there… But that is a different topic.
I think I might be getting a couple of these to try out. Should be fun. Will see how much of a change the code will need, probably not much.
Note: I downloaded the new bratsf.bas file since I do need to adjust my brat a bit better. I tried running it, but none of my servos were holding or moving. Then I noticed:
;System variables ;+----------------------------------+;
righthip con p5 ;| Servo Offset Finder |;
rightknee con p4 ;| Written by James Frye |;
rightankle con p3 ;| |;
lefthip con p2 ;| Use this program to find |;
leftknee con p1 ;| the servo offsets for your |;
leftankle con p0
Ah… Yeah. When we started the BBII support for the BRAT, we used those pins but later switched to allow the use of all the analog inputs. I’ll get that fixed…
This thread is long overdue for an updated video! My plan is to take this guy home over the long weekend and give it a decent camo paint job. 8) Will give it a try anyway.
Ok, fine… Here’s an actual picture of the robot… You guys are no fun…
After much experimentation, I’ve added an L bracket on the top to mount the antenna. I didn’t really want to add another bracket onto the turret, but I couldn’t figure another way to do it. Without the use of extensive taping, which looks very… professional.
Ah now I can see it. That “L” bracket is perfect for that finishing touch. I was looking to do the same thing with the biped Pete torso, but the lexan panels really had no place to mount an “L” bracket. I am going to have to let the power switch flap in the breeze I guess.
I like the black hoppers, they turned out great and the choice of the red looms helps balance out all that black color. Chrome looms would also look good.
Is this for a Sparkfun Bluesmirf? I see a little wire coming out of the backside of the L-bracket. Perhaps a small “extension” cable for the SMA connector?
extensive taping? Did you thread the L-bracket or something?
Huh? Nonono… Before this, I had the antenna taped to the underside of the right L bracket. Looking through the thread, I see that this is the first picture that actually shows the mech with the new camera…
I bought all sorts of tans, browns, and olive drab paints. I also got some textured flat black “paint for plastic” as a primer. I ended up only spraying the hoppers and gun barrels. I painted the rest of the guns with a brush. Then I added the red looms and started talking myself out of cammo.
I did a little research by searching mech warrior images. I only found a few that were camouflaged and they weren’t very intricate. Almost looked dirty rather than cammo. So the goal is to go red and black I guess.
I do plan to make a vacuum formed lid (like a body for an RC truck) that will have windows and stuff, like a real mech. Tyberius, the creator of the Mech-Warfare movement has decided on 1:25th for the scale. A 1:25th scale 6’ person would be 2.88" tall. Along the same line a 1:25th scale mech (Uller) would be about 14.4" tall. The BRAT is only 11" tall but hey, it’s a small mech!. A larger mech, Mad Cat / Timber Wolf would be about 20" tall. To bad there isn’t as many choices for 1:25th scale military models as there are 1:48th scale kits at Hobby Lobby. Guess I may have to mail order some stuff. You’re supposed to be able to fit a single pilot inside a biped Mech.
Thanks for those images. It made me do a quick search on full auto airsoft mini guns and I found this 1/3 scale gun that uses 4 AA batteries I’m not sure how big this little gun is, but if you can hack out the guts for just the gun, it might make really good mech guns for $15.
Here’s the link to more styles. I assume the guts are the same for all models.
These generally add a considerably amount of weight, even after they are hacked away. I’ve seen them stripped down to only a gearbox and barrel, and they weigh twice as much as the airsoft tank guns. Weight is a major issue with all of these robots (even Giger, with 1000oz-in torque servos, included)
Yeah weight is the biggest battle with any design and power is right up there as well. I might buy one some day and hack in to it to see what makes it tick. Perhaps a custom light weight airsoft design could be constructed.
Ok, I’m trying to follow build 156 to the ‘tee’. Step 8 descibes hooking the servos up as follows:
leftankle con p4
leftknee con p5
lefthip con p6
rightankle con p7
rightknee con p8
righthip con p10
turret con p11
pS2 cntrllr con p12-p15 and button/leds UNJUMPERED
Then, according to Step 9, we load BRATOSF.bas into our IDE. We get the following:
righthip con p5
rightknee con p4
rightankle con p3
lefthip con p2
leftknee con p1
leftankle con p0
Obviously these don’t jive.
Should I configure my servos as described by steps 9-12 before proceeding to step 8, which I’m thinking SHOULD be step 12?
Will I then change the servo positions to match step 8 or their pin descriptions in the mech code?
And will having the PS2 controller connected as shown, affect operation or cause “bad things” to happen when the buttons are pressed?
Also, I’m using digital servos (HS5990tg) for my knees and hips. Will the pulse range be different and what portion of the mech code might I have to adapt?
