I’m thinking we should get.
OM 204 B M4
OM 300 B M4
OM 400 B M4
I have to admit that my Chinese isn’t what it used to be but I think there are some typo’s in the datasheet. At the top it says that the model numer is OM <Nr of dimensions; 2D, 3D, 4D>. The images in the table below show OM 400 for a 3D stick. The 4D sticks don’t have a type number in the table. If I logically look at the model number I think you’ve got the right numbers Jim. But maybe it’s a good thing to double check it with your supplier. Or add the correct image to your order 
I think the 10K 50deg, is the best option for the pot meters.
Personally I think the A covers look a bit cleaner but that’s a personal thing. I suggest you keep them all the same, and stock only one. I will go with your taste.
At first I was not sure why you also wanted the 2D versions since you’ve got the aurora gimballs in store already. But thinking about it, it might be a good thing if somebody want’s to combine 2D and 3D joysticks in one application. Having them from the same series simply looks cooler 8)
Xan
I like this one:
OM400B 
http://www.omtertyxn.com/uploads/product/20090604081129.JPG
I’m not sure whats the difference between the A and B sealing, are they both easy to handle or does A require more force than B? Agree with Xan that A look cleaner, but its the same for me too. 
Here is a 3D view of the A and B version (you might need to update the adobe reader):
Pretty cool! First I could only see the back of the stick. But after updating the adobe reader it is possible to fully rotate the image. Nice found!
Update, the joysticks are ordered and I should have them in 2 - 3 weeks.
As far as I can tell the B version has the rubber seal but the A version does not. I went ahead with the B version.
Now I’m trying to make a good variety of face plates for many different configurations.
I’m not having any luck finding the 16 button keypad in bulk for a reasonable price. 
I’m still working on it.
Hi Jim,
Sounds great.
Not sure about the keypad. I ordered the ones I have now from the place you bought them earlier: elexp.com/cmp_1604.htm, which are $5.75 for 10 or more. Not sure who they order them from. There are no hints on the website nor in the documentation.
Kurt
Hi Jim,
Good news about the joysticks. I googled a bit for Hex keypads but instead of the hex keypads, I get (PC)keyboards. LOL
Isn’t kurt’s link a good supplier? They aren’t expensive are they?
Xan
The link Kurt posted is the same place I got the original ones from. I got a quote for 250 and it’s $4.97, like 20% off. I can sell them, but not as a kit through our distributors. I get some things from China. It’s a major pain. You find them, make contact, dredge through the language barrier, get a price, transfer 100% of the funds, wait for weeks to see if you will actually receive anything, if it arrives you hope it’s not made of paper mache and lead.
I have tested the 3 axis joysticks. The pots are 10k and at midpoint they are reading 5k-ish.
I made the sticks return to center in many different ways from slowly manually moving it to pulling to one side and releasing it so it snapped back. The return to center was as follows for my testing.
X 4.84k to 4.89k
Y 4.99k to 5.03k
Is that what you guys were seeing?
I think I was seeing a little more variation than that, That is, the difference of .05V converted by Atod and mapped from 0-255, would probably have a range of about 2, where I think I was seeing a range of more than 3 sometimes 4… Your values look pretty good!
Kurt
Devon has mentioned that he is seeing some less than perfect return to center behavior too. It may be you have to work them a bit before they loosen up and start to not return to center very well. So anyway it is what it is.
Hello Jeroen,
I will need to work fast to get your radio stuff sent out this week. I currently have info for this spread all over the place. Can we just work on it here?
I am making a DIY radio for you so you will have the same setup as Kurt and Kåre. Kurt’s using a small oLED and Kåre seams to be using the same 2 x 16 from the original project. Do you have a display? I need to know which display to cut the right sized hole. I believe the layout will be same as Kurt, but do you want 3 axis with switch on both sides? They call it 4 function.
Here is what I made for Kurt.
Yep, I need to get back to it and finish the code. But all of these other projects keep me busy. Finally got T-Hex with Arc32 and the TA test code to walk again. On my unit, I still need to work on rearranging the cables to make it all fit inside the case…
If you are doing a care package to him, if you have any of the speakers that are used on the BB2, you might send one with a servo extension. Then his T-Hex with Arc32 can make noise again 
Kurt
Yup working on the care package now. Needs some 3mm hardware too.
Hi Guys,
Something came up yesterday. Sorry that I wasn’t online.
Anyway, having the same setup as Kurt would be the easiest for exchanging software. The layout is perfect. I would like to have 2, 4 function joysticks. I don’t have a display, let me know what suits you the best on this.
Hope to be online this evening. If I’m not, and need to know something. Plz pm me so I get an email.
Thanks, Xan
Jim and Xan,
Mine was pretty close to being a working remote with this cover, I think I still had some secondary configuration pages left to port and test. Looks like I may need to get back to this one, so others can use the software Need to check up on the state of it. Lost track as I started to play with Touch screen, Nunchucks, TA, … Too many fun distractions.
This remote uses an Seeeduino Mega board for control along with a prototype of shield. A Bap28 does not have enough IOs (either digital or Analog), but would be easy to port to Arc32 if desired, but don’t have any free ones. Not sure if you have any of Mega Shields up and running from Mike? I purchased another Seeeduno Mega that arrived a couple of days ago to replace the one that the USB connector broke off of. Like MIke, it came without the extra connectors, even though the product page on Amazon.com said it did and the picture up on the NKCElectronics site had them… Contacted NKC and they said they forgot to update the picture and would send me a set…
The Display used is: sparkfun.com/products/8537. WIth the Seeeduino Mega, I purchased an extension cable that the mini B connector on one end and a panel mount on the other Large B… Tried to mount, cut away lots of housing, to try to make fit and now ends up with hole in side of case… Hope you ordered the newer boards slightly taller as that will make fitting all of the stuff a lot easier!.
Note: For the TA testing, I used the original one, that I hacked on two extra knobs, such that I would have the same number of controls as Zenta…
I had the new boxes made with 1.635" height inside the box. It was 1.5" on the original build.
Mike was waiting on some parts to finish the shields. I will ask him the status.
Hi Jeroen,
Here is an image of the controller. I got a new random orbit sander, and the weather hasn’t been too cold, so i was able to finish the panel off for you.
I don’t have the mega but I do have a shield. Not sure if I should hold all until January, or ship what I have, if you can get the mega yourself. The switches are NC not NO so they aren’t the correct ones either.
Personally I dislike the push button style. I think it spoils the look of the controller. I don’t have anything else in mind though.
WOW! 8)
That look really awesome! You could use black pushbuttons though. Very nice indeed.