Hi Jeroen and others,
I am waiting for their price list. I am eager to order these for the website. I now see the joystick can be ordered with self centering on any or all axis. My question is what is desired, and remember I am ok with carrying more than one version.
Hi Jim,
Sorry for not being so active in the forum lately. 
Is it possible to choose self-centering or not on the 3. axis too?
If so I would say both or one of each. Left stick non-centering on 3.axis and right stick self-centering.
But if we must choose I would suggest self-centering.
Hi Kåre, I’m happy for the time you are able to spend here.
The forum is a bit slow. That’s why we are trying the giveaway thing. But even that is going slow. I was hoping for 100 or more entries to win the free stuff. It’s just the first one of many though. Was hoping someone would announce it at some other popular forums.
I know from reading through the data sheet that you can’t order a joystick with one axis return to center and one axis not, but I can certainly order them with all 3 axis centering, or all 3 axis not. 
I have asked for quotes on two and three axis with push buttons and both centering and non centering. I plan to carry several versions.
I really appreciate the input!
Btw, are you talking about the joysticks Jeroen posted in the other thread?
Look at this page: p3america.com/pp/812.htm
A few weeks ago I was very lucky to have a demonstration of the Kinova Jaco robotarm at work. 
I was lucky to try it out and they used the 812 (3-axis) joystick with the “Type T” joystick handle. It has 2 buttons on top, very convenient!
Just a tip… 
Ok, if thats a fact we must go for all centering then.
Hi Jim,
Thanks for checking this out! I’m curious about there pricing.
I also noticed that the spring-loaded option is for all axis at once. So I vote spring-loaded (auto center) as well. Maybe it is possible to manually remove a spring for the Z-axis if needed.
Having a button on top would be nice to have.
There are a few models that look very interesting. I think it’s important to see what there prices and quality are. If one is a bit more expensive but better returns to the center or feels more robust I would go with that one. Maybe it is possible to get some samples so you can test them first Jim?
I’ve gone trough the datasheets and these are the ones that look interesting:
- 812, 3 axis with 2 buttons, Type: 812-511T1R edit: changed to 2 button version
- 828, 3 axis, Type: 828 Lever operation pattern F, Knop type 5 (Z-axis)
- TRY10, 3 axis with 2 buttons, Type: TRY10-551A111 edit: changed to 2 button version
- 822, 3 axis, Type: 822
My first choice goes to the 812. They are pretty small and have a button. The only thing that worries me is that the ServoCity joysticks look almost the same. Kurt noticed that they aren’t the same quality as the ones that you put in the DIY remote. But it might be word a try?
Let me know what you guys think!
Xan
Hi guys,
Jim - Hope you don’t mind I put a message up on the SOR website about the give away… Hope that will add some more traffic.
Yep the 812 looks a lot like the one I have. The main issue with the ones I have is that they don’t appear to come back to zero as accurate as the Hitec ones I have. Of course we could always just put in a larger deadzone… On the plus side they do appear to have a full analog range.
Kurt
Kurt - That’s great, thanks!
I’m pretty sure this is the same joystick. I’m still waiting for the quote.
I like the full 0-5vdc output as well. Even with the dead zone issue, they are still a magnitude better than the play station remotes joysticks.
Do the “T” handles buttons rotate with the knob, or do the stay put with the shaft?
They stay put with the shaft (I’m 95% sure about that… 
).
hmm or was it the TRY10 type stick. I don’t think they used a stick with bad centering. But we don’t know if the centering problem is for all 812. I just talked to Jeroen about this and the TRY10 are probably much more expensive.
I’ve just ordered 100 of the cases we used on the first DIY batch. I’m going to design several face plates to go with them. I should be able to offer an empty case (box with faceplate) for ~$20-$25.
Kurt - what were the values of the error on centering? iirc 3-5 units?
What is the range? 0-1024? 0-2048? Is this really a problem.
It should be static. Otherwise you’ve got 50% change you hit the right button.
Image one button is for shooting rockets, the other one is for your ejector seat… 
(sry, this just came up)
Yep, that’s why I asked.
Oops my last post got lost when I did not notice that Xan posted…
Should be fun with the new cases !!! With my stuff and Arduino Mega and shield it is a very tight fit. Will rework once I get the new OLED.
The analog input on the Arduino Mega is 10 bit so the values coming in are 0-1023. I am converting them to a byte 0-255 and I am seeing an error of maybe 3, potentially larger as it walks some times until I jiggle the joystick and I believe the cDeadzone is defined as 4. This would imply that in the raw analogRead I am seeing a difference of at least 12 maybe 16…
Kurt
Ok so even a dead band of 18 would still leave a ton of good range. 0-119 to 137-255
I also suspect some of the others will be overly expensive.
The first batch were supposed to be cut to a height of 1.75" but measuring them it’s more like 1.72". I can change it to 1.875" to gain a little room inside. I’m also inquiring if they can round off the edges.
The guy over there at P3 America is swamped today. I will have my information tomorrow. The good news is he told me the 812 is not the least expensive. He told me due to manufacturing quantities the hall effect ones are cheaper than potentiometer ones. I’m thinking hall effect is going to be much better than pots. It basically gives you 0-5vdc output. I will know more tomorrow.
Well they can’t round off the edges, but I did have them change it to 1.875 height to gain a little more room inside.
