Working on a PICAXE board for robot building - working on v0.9

I'm getting on with making a small PICAXE-driven board similar to the uBotino. I've got it moving along and am ready for other thoughts at this point.

A quick copy/paste from my blog with a little more info:

The Rev-Ed board is nice but there are a few features I don't care for. My PICAXE 20X2 Robot Builder Board does away with/adds those things. And it's only 50mm square.

2nd ed.-

20X2-RBBv2.jpg

  

post Ro-bot-X mods:

Post CtC and ignoblegnome suggestions (click for full size):

   

v0.6.2 (added switched power to SN754410 per ignoblegnome’s observation):

 

version 0.8:

 

The list of features I’m aiming for:

  • Powerful X2 series processor (Rev-Ed’s board uses M2/X/M processors)
  • Can use 3AA alkaline, 4AA NiMH, or higher voltage battery packs with the 5V 3A LDO on-board voltage regulator (can be disabled for AA battery packs)
  • Included quad H-bridge driver for bi-directional control of two small motors with power supply selection
  • Option for PWM of motor driver’s ENABLE lines for speed control
  • Five pins available for working with servos or LEDs (resistors selected with individual DIP switches)
  • Selectable power source for Port B power header via jumper (allows use of 6V or 7.2V for servos, in particular)
  • Ability to use both SEROUT and A.0 pin on leg 19, jumper selectable
  • Robust screw-down terminal blocks for power connection
  • Power indicator LED

There isn’t much wiggle room for adding features but I am eager to hear public opinions, wish lists, wut-i-wudda-duns, etc.

I keep getting a time out

I keep getting a time out trying to acces the blog you linked.

NIce idea.Have you got any diagrams or pictures to add? I’d love to see it.

Stupid question

Did you try more than one browser? Chrome on my box did open it, after a time.

That free hosting site really fisses me op

Thought that just linking to the stuff I already posted there would be easiest. Turns out it made for the most work. Odd how that happens a lot…

PCB layout posted here for your viewing pleasure. Just FYI I moved the drill holes in a bit and have not added all the bypass caps in the pic yet.

Updated visuals

It is what it is.

Hi Jax, I have a few

Hi Jax, I have a few observations about your design. At this moment there are no traces, but I’m sure you’ll run into problems if you keep this layout, especially trying to route the traces for the motor connectors (I believe they are Lt and Rt?) I suggest to move these connectors to the side of the H-bridge. Also, it might be better to move the motor power selector to the bottom of the board, so you have more room to route the traces for the second motor connector, first one being directly in front of the motor output pins on the left side of the board (a bit closer to the mounting hole, to make room for the other connector). Moving the motor connectors to the side of the board will allow you to move the 3 pin connectors between the H-bridge and the micro closer to the bottom of the board, making room for the power LED and resistor near the capacitors. Make sure you add 0.1uF filtering caps near each block of 3 pin connectors and near the H-bridge. In theory, all ICs and group of connectors should have a pair of 10uF and 0.1uF close by. Other than that, I can’t offer help, as I don’t know how Picaxe works.

Good luck with your project!

Gabriel.

lol beat you by three minutes!

Added traces to the post and now I’m studying your words of advice…

Yeah, I was typing while you

Yeah, I was typing while you updated…

One more thing, it is a good practice to have the signal pins in the 3pin connectors allways close to the microcontroller, instead of the GND pin. Most boards respect this pattern, I think it will be a mistake to change it. Oh, and routing the motor connector trace between the microcontroller pins is NOT a good idea. Think of how much electrical noise can screw up your readings or even the microcontroller functionality. Move them away from anything delicate!

Loose the 90s

90 degree corners make noise --or so I’m told. Gotta nip your corners off (of your traces) and make them all 45’s around the corners.

 

Hey, you’re using my

Hey, you’re using my favorite LDO voltage regulator. Good on you!

bOd

 

It looks to me like the power to the motor is unswitched. Is this on purpose?

Small changes and new PCB jpgs

Thanks, ig. I had a spare 3-pin sitting on my schematic for the longest time and I just deleted it. I knew I pulled it out for something.

Clipped my 90deg trace angles too, per CtC’s advice. Quiet circuits are happy circuits.

Added caps per Ro-bot-X’s recommendations. Unable to accomodate any 10uF’s to go with the 0.1uF’s. Got the power LED in there too.

One minor design change: moved the SN754410 to different pins to allow use of the PWM function. I thought that might be nice.

I second.

I second on that 3A, 4-Pin volt reg. Gosh-darn-good regulator.

The board looks great, but

The board looks great, but the mounting holes seem a bit tight. There might not be enough room for a screw or a nut there.
And are the DIP switch all that useful?

Working on adding room to

Working on adding room to the mounting holes right now. It is very tight indeed. It might become only three useful holes and a vestigial fourth hole. Eh.

The switches are to add 330ohm resistors to the I/O lines. PICAXEs need them for servo signals and for LED work. I put them on switches to keep the pins multifunctional and to avoid an endless sea of male headers on the board. If you have another idea on how to do it I’d be keen to hear it, Mr. Andersen.

With v0.6 you reintroduced

With v0.6 you reintroduced 90 degree traces. 

What is the diameter of those mounting holes? The actual hole is the little circle not the big one in case some do not under stand. I make my hole 2.8mm for little #2 bolts. 

Yes, I’m now working on

Yes, I’m now working on clipping the 90degs on the traces. Good eyes :slight_smile:

The drill holes are 3.2mm which is actually the big circle as you described it. I might opt for those #2 bolts. It seems everyone uses #4-40. That’s the only reason I chose that size.

A #4 fits in the 2.8mm as

A #4 fits in the 2.8mm as well.

Open question: Advantages,

Open question: Advantages, disadvantages of a power plane (5v) on top? I used one on my LCD back pack and it is good for cutting down on traces like the GND plane, but I do not know if it adds noise or if you need some good filtering. Mine seems to work fine.

wikipedia:

Where possible it is good to have a power plane for each ground plane on a board (known as a “plane pair”), as this reduces power supply impedance to the components on the board.

Asked an electrical engineer online friend and he said no problem that he knows of. So a power plane like this might be helpful if you want to cut down on traces or change things around.

** I still don’t get your**

 I still don’t get your power routing to the motor supply. Seems unswitched. I guess it isn’t a problem since the motor driver chip logic won’t be powered?  But it doesn’t see like it’d be hard to run switched power instead.

I also use the 3.2mm holes,

I also use the 3.2mm holes, because in some countries, people use metric bolts, like M3 which needs at least 3mm hole. M2.5 are hard to find, but still you can find them in some places. Besides #4-40 bolts I did not find tinier bolts easy, like in a hardware store or Home Depot. Home Depot does not have smaller bolts and only some hardware stores have smaller bolts. Also, the spacers available at robotics stores are either #4-40 or M3.

Also, I looked at the traces for motors, they are a bit too wide to pass between 2 IC pins. Make sure you do not cross the outside circle for any pad, that is the minimum safe distance. Oh, and I also use a bottom ground plane and a top Vcc (5V) plane, kind of works like a capacitor, you get less electrical noise.