Unofficial Parts Lists

Guys, we should start putting together some parts lists.
We get a lot of people asking how to build this and that, and we don’t want Jim wasting his time making these lists.

Nothing official, just something to get them going.
I’ll repost my Humanoid w/ waist list tonight.

Can someone(s) who’s built them do the Scout and the 209 (the aluminum versions of both?

If not, I’ll get 'round to them in a few days, but they’ll be based upon what I “see” and not what I’ve actually built (my Scout was the lexxan kit).

First… an insider’s intro to the servo erector set.

The erector set pieces are solid; they can bear more weight than any hobby servos, so don’t worry about over-burdening them.
Instead, worry about over-burdening your servos.

A quick aside about servos:
More money = better (almost always)
If you think you can get away with cheaper servos, your wrong.
You’ll spend more replacing smoked servos than you’ll spend on buying good servos originally.
What’s the best servo?
In my opinion, the 5645.
The 5995 is more powerful, but it doesn’t bounce back when you smoke it.

Don’t worry about hardware, either.
Unless specified in the directions on the site, all needed hardware (nuts, bolts, fasteners) comes with the brackets, plus a few extras.
The only things that don’t come with brackets are hex standoffs and tools.

I highly recomend either the 3D models on the site, or the 3D models in MWGemmini’s “RCK” (www.mike-winters.com/) to familiarize yourself with the brackets.

Good idea,
unfortunately you will probably have to do the humanoid parts list since I think you are the farthest along.
Has anyone else completed one? I’m just getting started with the erector set.

Tinman

Here’s my parts list for the Humanoid Biped w/ waist Rotate

There’s nothing that says that you have to do it this way (I recommend that you try it your own way), and don’t bite my head off if I’ve forgotten something.

:stuck_out_tongue:

If you go with the legs and a set of arms from the website, these are the brackets that you’ll need for the torso and head:

(I’m putting them in order, from the bottom of the biped to the top of the biped.)
(Many brackets are bought in pairs.
The brackets listed below, however, are listed as singles.
So, 2 ASB-11 = two ASB-11 brackets, not two pairs of ASB-11 brackets.)

Thighs:
2 ASB-11 *
2 ASB-04
2 Servos
1 AHC-1

Abdomen:
1 LPA-1 **
1 Servo
1 ASB-09

Chest:
1 ASB-12
2 ASB-04
2 Servos

Head (I didn’t buy these, but this is what I believe is used to make the head. I’m 94% sure.):
1 ASB-06
1 ASB-04
1 Servo
1 Rangefinder


Backpack (this is my design that I’ve adapted to be able to fit the head in the future):
1 ASB-06
2 ASB-02 (modified)
1 Piece of lexan, or Biped Scout’s Electronics Carier ****
X Hex Standoffs *****

Chestpack
1 Piece of lexan, or Biped Scout’s Electronics Carier ****
X Hex Standoffs *****


*Note the two ASB-11’s in the Thighs section.
In the tutorial, it shows ASB-09’s as being the proper “C” bracket to use.
This is only for the older biped, though.
Look at the new biped, it uses slanted “C” brackets.

**If you are buying aluminum servo horns (not sold, yet) you won’t need one for the LPA-1’s servo.
The LPA-1 comes with the plastic cut-out gear that you stick on the servo output.
So, you’d have nothing to stick your shiney servo horn on.

*** I’m not sure how to attach the rangefinder to the servo horn, because I’ve never used a rangefinder.
I’m sure that someone knows, though.

**** Ask Jim if he can sell you one of these, on the side. They’re not listed on the site as being sold seperately (they come with the Biped Scout kit), but he may be willing to sell you them, anyway.
Alternatively, you can buy a piece of Lexxan from the site and drill four holes in it.
I recommend the latter, because you can then build a complete casing (on all 6 sides), instead of just having a single mounting plate.
I’ll be making my own complete backpack soon, (as well as a chest pack) and I’ll be posting dimensions and pics.

***** The exact amount of hex standoffs depends on how many electronic boards you stack.
3/4" standoffs give just enough height to clear the SSC-32 and the attached servo couplings, but it’s a VERY tight fit, so be warned.

****** With a bit of wiggling, the SSC-32, and any other same-sized board will fit on the four inside holes on the two chest ASB-04’s, without any modification.
I put the 1/2" hex bolts straight through the ASB-04’s, through the 1/8" thick kydex (stronger than lexan and static-proof), through the SSC-32 (or whatever), and into the hex standoffs.
Real simple, it’s scary how well everything fits together, even when I’m not attaching like I’m “supposed” to.
Kudos, Jim.

Here’s a pic of what I did to the ASB-02’s:
x11.putfile.com/3/7715073993.jpg

Here’s a pic of how the backpack is mounted:
x11.putfile.com/3/7714523034-thumb.jpg

Hope this helps.
Let me know if there are any parts (no pun intended) that are still confusing.

^.^

EDIT:
I labeled the bent brackets “ASB-12’s” in the last picture, but they are, in fact, ASB-02’s.
Sorry, typo.

A reply for everybody who has been looking for SES kits, here’s a good start.
This is NOT official, and if anyone with more experience in the SES sees a flaw in my list, feel free to poke at it.

The Electronics. Everything you need to get started. I have purposely not listed the SSC-32 as the bot board has enough IO lines to control 12 servos. This is all you need, aside from your PC and possibly a USB-Serial adapter, to get started controlling and programming your bots.

ABB-01($24.95) Mini-Atom Bot Board
BAP-02($59.95) BASIC Atom pro 28 pin microcontroller
BAPM-01($24.95) BASIC Atom Pro Programming Manual (manuals are good to have!)
EC-02 ($7.95) SES Electronics Carrier
DB9-02($9.95) DB9 Serial Cable
Total electronics package: $137.75

The Servos. I took a guess here and went with a combo pack of the 133 oz HS-645s. You could save some money by getting the 76 oz HS-475s instead but IMO the price difference isnt worth the loss in strength.

SCD-03 ($239.94) 6 pack of HS-645 133 oz.-in. servos
Get 2 of these, total price: $479.88

Parts. I spent a few hours looking over the site, staring at screenshots, comparing prices and smashing a few different designs together into one parts list. Heres what I came up with…

MAB-01 $49.95 Metal Arm Base, No Servos
ASB-512B ($14.95) Aluminum Quad Channel, 12"
ASB-04 (pair x6 = $71.70) Mutipurpose Servo Bracket
ASB-13B($9.95) Aluminum Dual Servo Bracket
ASB-06 (pair x4 = $23.80) Aluminum “L” connector bracket
ASB-10B(3 pair = $38.70) Aluminum Long “C” bracket with ball bearing
ASB-09 (3 pair = $38.70) Aluminum “C” bracket with ball bearing
ARF-02 (pair x2 = $35.90) Aluminum Robot Foot
LGA-KT $5.95 Little Grip Attachment Kit
LG-NS $15.00 Little Gripper, No Servos
HUB-08 (pair x3 = $24.00) Aluminum tubing connector hub
AT-04 (x6 = $21.60) aluminum tube, 6"
REC-06 (pair x3 = $5.25) Rubber End Cap
ASB-503B ($6.95) Aluminum U channel
Total for parts: $312.45

This list of parts will build a 5dof arm, a 3dof quad walker, a 2dof hex walker, or Jims low cost 6 servo biped. I wanted to add a rover to this list but that would jack up the price signifigantly. Still, 4 different models for just over $300 aint bad!

Power. Somebody help me here. The chargers on the site dont look like they can plug into the wall. Where can I get one that will, or am I missing something?

BAT-03 ($12.95) 6.0v Ni-MH 1600 mAh battery pack
WH-01 ($4.95) Wiring harness battery connector
??? ($??.??) Need charger that runs off a 110 wall outlet
Total for power: $17.90+

Grand total to get up and running: $997.93 + shipping (+charger)

There ya go kids, complete out of the box solution, 4 different bots to build, and I kept it right around a grand! Which naturally I cannot afford to spend on bot bits, so someone please tell me if my parts list is off or something. I can post my design ideas for the different models but this is already a book, so I’ll post em if asked.

Thanks for the addition!
That’s a real nice kit.
I hadn’t thought of an all-around-build-almost-anything kit, but that’s exactly the SES is all about!
Kudos!

About the charger…
Yep, you’ll need a wallwart with them.
About 12V and about 2A is what you’re looking for.
Or… a car battery should work…
Hmm…
I’ll have to try that.

Less Amps in your wallwart = longer time to peak-charge them.

I’m actually using a power supply from a medium-scale model train set.
Technically, it’s emitting PWM, but it maxes out at about 14V, so I turn it down to 13V to power the charger.
Since 14V is the “full on” power, the PWM keeps it switched “on” for a much larger period of time than it’s switched “off”.
So, what’s coming out at 13V isn’t too dirty…
In essence, I’m actually fast-trickle-charging the entire time.
:stuck_out_tongue:
I’ve seen the charger draw 4A through this beast, and it still keeps goin…

Um… anyhow…
About the 6V batteries…
I agree.
A 7.2V would just lead to more strain on the servos, which is NOT what a begginner wants to deal with.
After a while, though, 6V probably won’t be enough juice for us greedy roboteers.
After all, why go ten mph over the speed limit when one can go twenty over?
:wink:

I’m hesitant about not including the SSC-32, though.
You’re quite right in that the ABB is perfectly capable of doing everything, but for a begginner (and quite frankly, those who aren’t), the SSC-32 is “set it and forget it”.
You’ve heard the schpeel before… servos stop and start at the same time, simple string of characters is all that’s required, etc.
Moreover, though, do you really want to build gaits with a BASIC language, or is it easier to just get the SEQ and do everything in a nice point-and-click Windows environment?
Yes, more hardware = more disapointing initial mistakes, but IMO, it quickly becomes worth it.

Awww, we cant go giving the newbies eveyrthing in the first buy now can we? Just think what that would do to poor Jims repeat business! And I figure newbies should at least learn the gait programming methods before they get hardware that does it for them. It helps with understanding whats going on.

Besides, I’m a bit biased. Due to budget reasons I wont be able to pick up an SSC-32 until after all the other necessary parts :frowning:

If I understand you correctly, your train kit has up to 14V going through the tracks? What the heck is that, a mini maglev?

Well, I hear ya, there.

Let’s leave it up to the newbies as to what they feel they want to dig into first.

For guys who are more comfortable with EE, the SSC-32 is probably the easiest way to start.
For guys who have a bit of background programmming know-how, the ABB would probably seem a lot more straight-foreward.

For the purposes of being an all-around kit, the ABB is a lot more flexible, since it’s not limited to controlling servos.

If I remember correctly, I bought the kit up in Maine from a home-grown electronics shop about five years ago.
The trains were about the size of the average under-the-christmas-tree set (sorry, not familiar with train-sizing standards).
I’ve since destroyed the trains by cracking them appart and using their motors in my highschool battlebot.
They appear to have been some off-brand of 12V gearhead motors.

I don’t recommend buying a handmade set of nice model trains and then ripping them appart and parting them out, though.
Especially when the kit costs a couple Benjamins.
:stuck_out_tongue:

so the ASB-12 only holds on one end?? because its like a chanel so it holds with only half the c bracket

thx Sam

O.o
o.O

::scratches head::

I don’t understand your question, so I’ll give you a general description of how the chest bolts together:

The two sides of the ASB-12 (normally used as a passive, non-servo-driven hinge) are identical.
They’ve got two evenly-spaced holes in each side (which one would normally mount bearings to).
These two holes coincide with the two holes on the non-business side (the side where the servo horn doesn’t go) of the two ASB-04’s (again, where bearings would normally go).

So, two bolts on each side holds the chest together quite well.

Let me know if that doesn’t answer your question…

sorry about my first post in this topic, it was late (I hope…) and I was tired.

anyway I think this is ok:

ok. took me some while to understand. we are talking about this right? lynxmotion.com/Product.aspx? … egoryID=87
so in one of the holes in the front of the passive hinge, the c bracket comes in from the waist rotate. And the holes on the side of the hinge connect to the holes for the berring in the ASB-04?

Sam thanks

ding ding ding, you win the money prize. As far as I understand, thats how its mounted.

edit:
wait, its not a C bracket in the front, its an L bracket: lynxmotion.com/Product.aspx? … egoryID=87

yeah it looks like the L bracket but in the text i says the C bracket. I guess its the L bracket?

Nick can you please awnser me? :smiley: