Teensy 3.1 based BotBoarduino type carrier board

It would be interesting to know what it would cost to produce, all assembled.
Still ain’t got the time to go over the part-list and order from DigiKey… :frowning:

I can understand you are pretty busy these days!

There are some other options for carrier boards. None with all of the goodies. But some real simple ones, like:

embeddedcoolness.com/shop/rfx-te … -area-kit/
tindie.com/products/freto/t … nd-shield/

As I mentioned awhile ago, Seeedstudio does provide the ability to get ones fully assembled. If you use only parts out of their preferred parts list, you can have them build a couple of prototypes. If you order something like 100+ of the boards, you can have them source other parts. The problem is, If I design using their parts list, the list is really limited, example they have voltage regulators, but last I looked all of the 5v regulators want a minimum of 7v, which does not work well if you wish to use 6v NIMH battery. Likewise their selection of resistors is limited and they only have small parts, like 0603, which if you then want to hand solder is real small! But may look again and see if their parts list has grown.

Kurt

For those who don’t want to solder all of those SMD components, I wonder?

With the current design how many components you actually install is up to you. Example builds:

Start with Minimal: whichever connectors you want(3 wire, connectors, power connector, arduino headers), 5V voltage regulator with needed capacitors (C20, C16), can also put in 2 wire connectors for optional jumpers or wire in jumpers. for 3.3v you can use wire to jumper in (or with new build install the new pin). Note: if you don’t need a lot of IO pins, you don’t need to use/solder on the SMD/to IO pins to bottom of Teensy 3.1 (nor the IO pins associated with it 24-33 A12-13)

Beyond the total minimal, you can do any or all of the other parts:

3.3V - 3.3v VR and on new v0.2 1uf capacitor (The main purpose for using separate VR instead of using the 3.3v from Teensy is if you have some IO pins or shields that use more than the teensy supplies. Note: for things like XBee shields, they rely on the 5v and use their own…

Extra caps - I have several capacitors(C1-7, 14?) on most of the pin groups as to smooth out any power usage. This is like BB2, Botboarduino… You can add them or not

Speaker - Spkr, Q1, D1, R6, C8, Jmpr - Can add or not

AX Buss - AX connectors, R4, D2

Reset - Button and wire

Power LED - led (PWR), R5

Optional Extra LED - led (LED), R7

Optional Extra button - Button, R9

Maybe missed a few things, but you hopefully get the idea.

But I also been wondering if I should play around with a simplified version that maybe only (or at least mainly) uses through hole components. If I did may also simplify some things, example speaker. Could use simple RC circuit, like in: pjrc.com/teensy/td_pulse.html. I know that is what Orion Robotics did on their boards. Maybe remove some of the optional jumpers, maybe drop optional LED I added as you already have an LED on D13… Does this make sense? Would anyone care? Other things to drop or include?

Kurt

Having a thru-hole minimal design is nice for a lot of people.
it would not help me as i only didn’t take the time to search and get all the parts, soldering is not a problem for me.

I can’t say it took much time ordering all the parts from DigiKey following Kurt’s BOM list. It was simply a copy and paste process for each digikey part number. I believe he update the list to correct power terminal. I also recommend ordering all three led colors, red, yellow, green.

The soldering job took a lot longer time… :wink:

Oh… i didn’t say it was not done right.
Just ain’t took the time to do it yet… :wink:

Not sure I can help on doing the actual ordering of parts :laughing:

Did hack up a version of the Teensuduino, which uses all non-smd parts (except for D2, which is optional for AX buss, and did not find a non SMD version…

Here is a 3d render of it:

May need a little cleanup. Not sure if I want to order a set of them yet or not…

Kurt

Round corners yippee…!

Yep - Note the the other version has it as well.

Doing a 2nd pass at this one and don’t like parts of it. In particular speaker setup. I have this one as simple RC circuit, but most examples of this have something like a 100uf cap, which in the through hole is pretty big and would get in the way of a shield. Likewise the VR is high. Assuming I build some, would probably want to bend it over, which implies need to make room for it to do so. Also need to double check width/height of 10uf CAP I have coming off of it…

You can probably see what I mean in the picture:

Maybe better to go back to simple Transistor version like I had. Diode is optional…

Thoughts?

Everything is looking really good, Kurt! :smiley:

Of course, I’m interested in the version with all the bells and whistles. :smiley: I just have to get money to have boards made and get parts.

Right now, I’m trying to complete three robots, with the build on one (A.R.T.I.E., the smallest one) done now. I just burned up the SSC-32 on the SES Rover yesterday, and only have the one on W.A.L.T.E.R. left working now. :frowning:

Here, you can see my collection of Arduino shields. I’ll also have an Adafruit Motor Shield V2 next week, along with an Arduino Due, a set of mecanum wheels destined for A.R.T.I.E, some sensors, and other stuff.


8-Dale

Thanks Dale,

I did a little more playing around with the all through hole version and got rid of the huge cap and added simple transistor and diode instead. Diode is optional…
Heights make more sense.

The only main thing on this version I don’t have is a separate 3.3v regulator, but instead just rely on the 3.3v output of the teensy. I am not sure yet how many cases I have where I use very much 3.3v current on this board. If I install an XBee I believe most of the shields use 5v and their own VR… But could easily add one???

Seriously, I would go with the separate 3.3V regulator. More and more sensors and modules are coming out that are 3.3V only all the time, and the power draw accumulates. I prefer to draw power from the board when ever possible, to avoid having to have a separate power supply. However, I do have a dual 5V/3.3V breadboard power supply I have to finish building up.

8-Dale

I decided to add a small one (TO-92), that typically can generate 250ma some 300ma. Enough for example for simple XBee (50ma). Decided since I took it this far, I ordered a batch from Seeedstudio.


You will see that there is a 1uf cap on both sides of the VR (u1 just above speaker). Again on this one you can decide to install or not.

Kurt

Sometimes one of the more difficult things to do with a board like this, especially if you are going to share it with others, is to come up with a reasonable parts list for the board.

With the through hole version, I updated the excel spreadsheet with a second page, that tries to explain what different parts are used for. Most of the time I will do the kitchen sink approach and fully populate boards, but for some cases I may simply populate the board with as much as I need for a specific project. If I don’t need AX servos, will then don’t need to populate those components. If I am not going to use Arduino shields, maybe I don’t need to populate those connectors. If I only need a limited number of IO pins, maybe I will leave off that SMD connector on bottom of teensy, as well as the connectors on the actual board that connect to it…

Here is a partial extract from that page:
[table][tr][td]Part usage[/td][td]RefDes[/td][td]DigiKey Part number[/td][/tr][tr][td]* - Teensy and 5v power[/td][td]J1[/td][td]277-1579-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]* - Teensy and 5v power[/td][td] C20[/td][td]445-8422-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]* - Teensy and 5v power[/td][td]U5[/td][td]LM1085IT-5.0/NOPB-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]* - Teensy and 5v power[/td][td]C16[/td][td]P15787CT-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]* - Teensy and 5v power[/td][td]U4[/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]O - 3V VR[/td][td]C4, C8[/td][td]445-8422-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]O - 3V VR[/td][td]U1[/td][td]MCP1700-3302E/TO-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]O - Arduino Shield[/td][td]J2[/td][td]S7004-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]O - Arduino Shield[/td][td]J3, J4[/td][td]S7006-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]O - Arduino Shield[/td][td]J5[/td][td]S7008-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]O - AX Buss[/td][td]R4[/td][td]150XBK-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]O - AX Buss[/td][td]D2[/td][td]641-1219-1-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]O - AX Buss[/td][td]JAX1, JAX2[/td][td]WM18887-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]O - Button[/td][td]R9[/td][td]1.00KXBK-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]O - Button[/td][td]BTN[/td][td]EG2510-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]O - Caps for power pins[/td][td]C1, C2, C3, C5, C6, C7, C14[/td][td]445-5303-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]O - I2c PU[/td][td]R11, R12[/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]O - LED[/td][td]R7[/td][td]1.00KXBK-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]O - LED[/td][td] LED[/td][td]P607-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]O - More IO pins[/td][td]Bottom of Teensy…[/td][td]TSM-108-01-TM-DV-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]O - Power LED[/td][td]R5[/td][td]1.00KXBK-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]O - Power LED[/td][td]PWR[/td][td]P607-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]O - Reset button[/td][td]RST[/td][td]EG2510-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]O - Sound[/td][td]R6[/td][td]1.00KXBK-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]O - Sound[/td][td]SPKR[/td][td]102-1155-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]O - Sound[/td][td]D1[/td][td]1N4148TACT-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]O - Sound[/td][td]Q1[/td][td]2N3904TFCT-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]O - Voltage dividers[/td][td]R2, R10[/td][td]10.0KXBK-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]O - Voltage dividers[/td][td]R1, R8[/td][td]40.2KXBK-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]* IO Pins and Jumpers[/td][td][/td][td]A26508-40-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]* IO Pins and Jumpers[/td][td][/td][td]A34268-40-ND[/td][/tr][tr][td]* IO Pins and Jumpers[/td][td]Shunts… Jumpers…[/td][td]S9001-ND[/td][/tr][/table]
With some of these parts I choose a part because of how I may want to use it and I may try out a few different components on different boards I populate as for how I will use that specific board.

Examples:

5V Voltage regulator. The part I show in the list, should work with 6V NIMH battery, which is important for those boards, that I may wish to use with hobby servos. However for other boards, where I plan to use a 2S or 3S lipo battery, I may instead wish to use a switching VR like the Arbotix M uses (Digikey - 811-2196-5-ND). It probably is more efficient, but requires a minimum of 7 Volts which does not work well with NIMH nor with 2s LifePO4.

Voltage Divider Resistors: I choose 10K and 40K (actually 40.2 as did not find 40). So these voltage dividers give 1/5th Vin to the analog pin. The Analog pins only measure up to 3.3v so that gives us a maximum we can measure of 16.5v. The pins are 5v tolerant so can give 25v without hurting board. But if you plan to only use something like a 2s Lipo, than you can potentially use different resistors…

Arduino Headers: I currently show the standard height headers that come on most boards. I would prefer a taller connector as to give more room under the shields to connect up wires. I currently have some samples coming direct from samtec which hopefully will work: (ESW-108-12-T-S, ESW-110-12-T-S, ESW-106-12-T-S). Not sure who currently stock these parts.

Again, let me know if trying to show what each component is used for, helps or not. If it does, I will try to update the other Excel documents as well. Note: I high percentage of the parts have the same Reference Designators on the three different boards.

Kurt

Is there a similar part that is a little beefier that could be put into the board instead? How would that affect the values of other parts in the power circuit?

8-Dale

I am not sure of any with this configuration. As I mentioned, I am feeding it from the 5v circuit. It can take a maximum of 6v in.

One can always design a circuit that has a higher output. Would need to use a different physical layout, probably the same one as the 5v regulator uses. Would then need to make sure there is room. With the 5v version I am assuming I will need to bend it over such that the height does not interfere with shields…

How does it effect the other parts? First it depends on what part is choosen. Typically you look at the datasheet of it and see what it’s requirements are. They will often have a typical circuit diagram. Many require one or more Caps on the Input and on the Output of the VR. Some do not. Example the switching regulator does not require any, but they do talk about adding ones if needed…

And the larger the output the larger the traces should be…

Kurt

P.S - They shipped the Through hole version today.

For those like me who want to use all of the IO pins, but would also like to maybe use a socket and are afraid that the adapter soldered on the bottom of teensy may be an issue. Someone up on PJRC forum has done a solution, which looks sort of interesting:
forum.pjrc.com/threads/26071-Usi … h-a-socket

FYI - My updated boards look like they arrived at my mail box. Both the simple update of the board, plus the version with all through hole components. So hopefully tomorrow I will pick them up and soon try to assemble one of each to see how they work.

Also it appears like you can now order a Teensy 3.1 directly from Robotshop :smiley:
robotshop.com/en/teensy-31-u … board.html
Note: they probably still need to do a little editing of the product page, as it is not an AVR processor running at 16mhz as mentioned in the features…

Likewise they may want to give a link back to PJRC, to give more details: pjrc.com/teensy/teensy31.html
As it also has pages that show you how to install the software (teensyduino): pjrc.com/teensy/td_download.html

Other things that you may want to mention: 21 Analog input pins. Most of the Analog pins are also Digital pins, so they are 5v tolerant, however only measure Analog values up to 3.3v. There are a few Analog only Input pins and these pins are not 5v tolerant.

Also it has 3 USARTS, 2 I2C and SPI…

Or again could refer them to the PJRC site

Kurt

Kurt, good news… :wink:

Blame me, i have yet to order the DigiKey parts… again…

Hey Kurt…

Here is what is listed on the pjrc website:

Key Features:
USB can be any type of device
AVR processor, 16 MHz
Single pushbutton programming
Easy to use Teensy Loader application
Free software development tools
Works with Mac OS X, Linux & Windows
Tiny size, perfect for many projects
Available with pins for solderless breadboard
Very low cost & low cost shipping options

So not sure what is the “AVR Processor, 16 MHz” probably the programing ?