Cool!
It looks like there shouldn’t be any conflict with the serial connector for both boards. I’m glad you made some space for the servo wires too(vertical holes).
Easy access to both boards and all pins are very convenient.
I didn’t expected any aberrancy from your standardized 1" SES pattern group either
I guess both side panels are equal? So that should give us 4 holes, and thats plenty.
Its easier to say where the 0 deg positions are. This PEP screenshot show three of the joints (femur, tibia and tars) in the 0 deg position:
What I did was to mount the servo in a position that allowed each joint to do full range of motion. In extreme positions the femur can reach about -105 deg (rotated upward ccw) , the tars reaches up to around -120 deg (rotated inward cw). The tibia can safely be calibrated with 1500=0deg, the tars and femur should be calibrated with the 1500 to around -15 deg.
I calibrated the front and rear coxa with a 45 deg offset.
The coxa offset of 45 deg is just like we did for Phoenix, the only difference is that Phoenix had an offset of 60 deg and T-Hex are 45 deg. This picture show the coxa servos all calibrated. The 1500 positions for the coxas should be pretty close to what you see here:
The next picture illustrate how I calibrated the femur, tibia and tars. In this position all joints are calibrated to the 0-deg position. It might be a bit hard to see but I use a plastic plate as a template for how each leg must be calibrated.
I belive the easiest way to solve the calibration part is to first set all servos to the center 1500 position and mount the horn so that the leg pose the 0-deg positions (like picture #2). Then snap out the horn from the femur and turn it 15 deg upward. Then snap out the tars horn and turn it 15 deg inward. Hopefully the leg should look close to my third picture.
This is not exactly the way I did it but I think its the easiest way to tell you how to do it…
This image is a close up showing I attached an ASB-24 to the center of the chassis using an ASB-06. I made a small front panel to secure everything. This is a very strong configuration for adding a large addition to the front of the bot.
Thank you for the info! I think this is the right way to go. It’s a lot easier to align things for vertical and horizontal, then adjust the horns. Good thing those Hitec splines have 24 teeth.
They are being laser cut as we speak. 8) I should have them on a week or so. Man I have so many cool things in the works. Just waiting for one thing or another for all of them.
New T-Hex prototype looks a lot simpler than the old versions. That is if I am correct in assuming that the octopus-like one were the old version. You just did a great job making a rotating vertical chassis panels with axis. Rapid Prototyping