Servo Mid position for 4DOF t-hex?

Hi

I would like to know if servo mid position for the 4dof t-hex is necessary and important?

Is Adjusting End Stops on Digital Servos important and necessary as well?

Also if i don’t carry out the servo mid points and adjusting the end stops and i plug the battery and switch on the robot, will anything go wrong?

Lastly how do you remove VL=VS?

Yes, when you mount the servos to the frame (specifically the servo horn to the bracket), it’s important that the servo be as centered as possible (mechanically). You then also need to center the servo via the code.

No, you should not need to adjust the end positions; you can leave the default settings.

The issue is mainly with the walking gait / code. Most standard hobby servos can only rotate 180 degrees, and don’t know if something is preventing them from rotating. For example if you send a position command of 30 degrees (current position is 90 degrees), and there is something physically blocking it at 60 degrees, it won’t stop at 60 degrees and will instead keep trying to reach the new position. Worst case scenario the servo will heat up too much and fry. In terms of the walkign gait, for a legged robot to walk, it needs to position its feet quite precisely, and having the servos even a few degrees off might mean the foot won’t contact the ground.

There is a small jumper between the green terminals labelled VL = VS1. This allows current to flow between the two pairs of green terminals making the logic voltage the same as the servo voltage. Removing this jumper prevents current from flowing, meaning you must power VL and VS separately.

Thank you for the reply… So basically I can remove the jumpers with my hands by just pulling them? Also if I am using two batteries can you confirm which jumpers I should remove and leave on?

Also if I have already done the assembly can we still center the servos by remove the horns? Lastly on the manual it says I need to connect the servo to the board and run the code… Do I need to do this for all servos individually¿

Correct. We suggest keeping them in a small bag or bin as they are small and easily lost.

There are three sets of green jumpers on the SSC-32:

]VS1: this power the corresponding row of servos/:m]
]VL: this power the logic controller (the small chip)/:m]
]VS2: this powers the second row of servos on the SSC-32/:m]You would connect the 9V battery to VL (ensuring red to positive and black to negative)
You will likely be connecting servos to both the VS1 and VS2 lines, so since you only plan to use one battery for the servos, you can leave the VS1 = VS2 jumpers so they share the same power supply.

Yes; you can unscrew the horn from the servo (just one screw at the center), gently flex the bracket (which will still have the servo horn connected to it) so the servo’s output shaft / spline can spin freely.
Center the servo and then put the horn back on. This is not the ideal way, but should save some time. The best way would be to disconnect the horn from the bracket then center the servo and then reconnect it.

Assembly and centering is very important. We have quite a bit of experience for assembly and tend to connect all of the servos to the SSC-32 and center them all at once, then connect them to the brackets.
The idea of centering each servo is still valid.

thank you for you help…

as per the following link lynxmotion.com/images/html/build170.htm step 5, it says with the VS2=VS1 jumper installed. Remove the VL=VS jumper…

i have followed the rest of the steps… and have connected the SSC-32’s VL to the Bot Board II’s VL…

on the following link on lynxmotion.com/images/html/build171.htm, on step 1 it says to Connect the SSC-32 to the serial port and apply power… when i connect the nimh 7v battery, the led doesn’t turn to green… i have ensured the switch is on as well… should i be connecting the 9v battery as well and than it should power on or am i do something wrong?

furthermore when i put the vl=vs jumper back on and the serial port is connected, however there is no battery connected and i touched the switch i felt an electric shock… Did i do something wrong here or was it some sort of static?