I would attempt to break the circuit at or near the motor rather than the driver. Otherwise, if there is an enable line that the driver uses, you could simply pull the enable line low. If you are really worried about runaway, you could always add a “Big Red Button” on the ground circuit.
Pat, I too am using wheelchair motors in my bot and I can tell you your plan is flirting with disaster. The white leads supply 24 volts to release the brakes in the motor BEFORE DC is applied to the motor. This is so if granny stops on a hill, she won’t coast down the hill into the river. If you break the connection to the brake but there is still power applied to the motor, you will do one of several things, (none of which are good). Either the fuse will pop because you are applying power to a bound up motor, or, you will fry your controller, or you will rip the brake mechanism out of the motor.
Considering all the problems encountered when using the original electronics on a wheelchair, I did away with all of it and removed the brakes from the motors. Now it is much simpler to control, I’ve eliminated useless weight, I now have a mounting surface for the shaft encoders, and I was able to sell all the parts I didn’t need to buy more robot stuff. It really is a win / win situation.
I am detailing my progress on this site, just search for Salvage. Good luck
How could I let Granny coast down the hill or dare I say into the river, thats the end of that idea
Basically its probably best not to place any switch or relay before motors ,as I am using the original joystick controller ( driven by two servo’s) to operate.
Will take a look at switching off controller ,but it has a touch pad,and I would prefer not to open unit if possible