Plexi Bender 800 (aka Plexiburn Gnomeatron)

Plexi_Bender_037_sm.jpg

After seeing a video of Jeri Ellsworth's plexiglass bender, I decided I wanted to make one.

I had an old baking pan that was retired and just waiting to become a project. I used that as the base, since Jeri's version scorched her benchtop. I included a power switch and indicator, and a 10 amp fuse as well. Other than that, it is basically the same.

Aluminium u-channel is used to hold the heating coil from an old hair dryer. I got mine for free from craigslist.org. It was a 1600 Watt dryer, and I took one of the two main coils. So I figure my bender will run at about 800 Watts. Thus, the Plexi Bender 800 is born.

But will it work? The plaster of paris that insulates the coil from the u-channel is still drying. I should let it set for 24 hours. Luckily (?), I'm feeling a bit under the weather tonight, so I should be able to sleep through a lot of the waiting.

I'll post an update after I test it. If it works well, I will post detailed instructions (possibly on Instructibles.com) on how I made it. I took lots of pictures during the build.


Update 2011-04-13... Later that same day

With some practice, I found I can use the Plexi Bender without modification.

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Above is the servo mount for Why Tri. It came out really well, if I do say so myself!


Update: 2011-04-13

I tested the Plexi Bend 800 this morning, and it definitely bends plexiglass. Unfortunately, it also melts plexiglass. Sometimes, it sets plexiglass on fire!

Some practice with the bender taught me some things. I can make bends without melting the heck out of the plexi if I hold it higher above the coil.

In the picture above, the smaller piece of plexi at the bottom of the picture shows my first two bends. These two were laid right on the u-channel, and practically melted all the way through the plexi.

The larger piece has a set of bends where I started lifting the plexi above the heating coil. The bend at the top-left was the last bend, and you can see I managed to bend it without any bubbles or deformations.

 

So the bender does work, but needs some improvement.

Plexi_Bender_038_sm.jpg

Needed Improvements

In the picture above, you can see that the heat of the coil actually caused the aluminium u-channel to expand. Since the u-channel is mounted with screws at each end, it bowed upwards in the middle. I need to cut mounting slots instead of round holes, and allow the u-channel room to expand.

Most importantly, I need to be able to vary the power sent to the coil. I'll have to check into the best way to do that. I have a couple of high power variable DC power supplies, but they need repair. I'll either need a dedicated way to vary the power on the Plexi Bender, or I need to fix my power supply and use its variable DC output (up to 37 Amps) to run the coil.

Working Well

One thing I'm very happy with is that the thermal insulation between the coil/u-channel and the baking pan works great. The pan was just warm to the touch, while the aluminium of the u-channel was hot enough that it dented when I pushed it back into place with a tool after shutting off the coil. The two pieces of wood were only an inch or two away from the u-channel, and they were only warm to the touch.

Great project. Here’s a link

Great project. Here’s a link that may help you out with some ideas on construction to keep from burning the plastic.

PCB Heaven Acrylic Bender

Whoa! That guy really went

Whoa! That guy really went for it! Water cooling and full variable power control via a PIC DCV Controlled AC Light Dimmer he made himself. Amazing stuff.

I’m thinking a bit more low tech. I was considering today if a very cheap way to reduce the heat of the coil would be to put a large blocking diode in the path of the AC line. This way half the AC gets blocked and I immediately drop the power to something more reasonable.

Longer term, I do want full variable power control, but I may try this as an intermediate step. As a one-component add-on, it seem worth a try. 

I wonder if a light dimmer

I wonder if a light dimmer switch will assist you in limiting some of the voltage to the heater coils.  I imagine that a dimmer switch would function pretty close to the way the normal (hot/warm/cool) switch on a hair dryer works.  Also, placing a platform a little higher than the aluminum channel may help out with the burning also. I would use something that would act as a good insulator if you do consider this.  I’m just brainstorming a bit as I like the simplicity of your project. \o/

I used pieces of mica board

I used pieces of mica board from inside the hair dryer as insulation between the u-channel and everything else. It works pretty well.

I could definitely just build up my work platforms higher, but it would be nice to cut down on the heat, it gets tough to hold the pieces in some positions. (toasty fingers!)

Keeping it simple is the plan. Thanks for your ideas; I appreciate it.

Everyone needs one of these

I was considering using a model train transformer to see if I could control the heating element for different thicknesses of plexi. You can get some used simple ones for a good price now and then. I haven’t looked into the math of even a basic AC dryer let alone the proper size transformed to make enough current.

I love it. Fine tune that puppy!

Light Dimmer

A light dimmer would totally work – assuming the element isn’t drawing too much current for it to handle.  It would be efficient too (the dimmer doesn’t waste much power).  What you said about the diode is true, it would cut the power by half (which may be too much to get enough heat).  

A triac light dimmer (standard dining room dimmer switch) is essentially the same thing, only more fancy.  The triac only conducts for some percent of the cycle until it returns to zero again, then it waits until the voltage rises enough the other direction – the same amount – then turns on again until it goes back to zero.  You can get very fine control of the power this way.  It’s almost the same as driving a plain DC motor (not a servo) with PWM.  They’re fairly cheap tool $6 at Home Depot for one capable of handling 600W.

Was the hairdryer less than 600W?

What you said are my
What you said are my thoughts exactly. A dimmer switch should work pretty good and they are pretty cheap. I’m an overkill kind of guy so I would probably go with a PWM triac scheme controlled by micro controller. Dang, I might have to add this to my project list.

It was a 1200 Watt hair

It was a 1200 Watt hair dryer. Inside were two main coils and a third smaller one that was in-line with the bridge rectifier that drives the DC motor for the fan. I’m not 100% clear on the function of that.  Looking at the connections, it may be a small coil to keep the air at least warm when you select the ‘Cool’ setting of the dryer.

So I’m using just one of the big coils for my bender. Worst case it is 800 Watts, but maybe it is a little less because of the effect of the small coil. For example, two 500 Watt coils and a little 200 Watt coil.

Maybe I’ll try out the dimmer and see how it works. Heat control would definitely be a big plus.

 

You know, I do have a couple

You know, I do have a couple of old train transformers. That’s worth a try too!

The multiple coils

"I’m not 100% clear on the function of that."

This site has some info you might find handy.

-edit: I reread that site, and while interesting, it is not the one I thought it was. I will dig and see if I can find it.

Actually, that article

Actually, that article explained it:

"The drop in voltage required for the DC fan motor is achieved by connecting the low wattage heaters in the heater box in series with the fan motor leaving the high wattage heaters connected in parallel or non-series to the motor."

I sort of expected that, but it was nice to see it confirmed.

 

Note to self: This blog from

Note to self: This blog from The Mechatronics Guy has some good info.

I really have to get back to this project some time soon.