PhotoTransistors (Top or Bottom?)

I am following in Mr. Oddbot's footsteps and once again, walking the road of cheap, IR-LED based obstical sensors. Put simply, I can not seem to replicate the results of the work of others. Let's do some bullet points:

  • Want to build simple, 2 or 3 phototransisor object sensor
  • Have been folowing This Post both to the letter, and with many variations
  • I am basically (no, actually) remaking the Dagu Compound Eye, but smaller and "on edge"
  • For bench testing, I am using only one "set" of parts (1-4 IR LED's, 1 or 2 Phototransistors, one ADC)

Problems:

  • The Compound Eye works incredibly well, indoors it can catch my hand 10" (25cm) away. 
  • I have replicated the Compound eye's circuit exactly (each part matching the specs of the parts used on the C.E.) but I cannot get the ADC numbers like the Compound eye. My set-up has maybe 5" (13cm) range, with a total output fluctuation of maybe 1v. I.e. 2v -3v total range from nothing in front to white paper 3cm away.

Tried/Questions:

My first question is why the NPN phototransistor is on the "top" of the circuit. Is there an advantage to this location? In every schematic I see, we have collector to 5v+ and the emitter to a pull-down and ADC. Every other NPN-thing I have ever done had the collector going to the ADC/Pull-up and the emitter going to ground. Why is this different?

What's up with the transistors? I used countless "general purpose" transistors in my tests (the tests above were done with no transistors) and I could see no effect in the output. I went through 2222's, 3904's, 4401's and a darlington chip. All worked (and I know we are talking a volt/current issue here as well as impedence issues) but I could see no change in output on the O-scope or ADC numbers by adding a transistor. The total range of voltage outputted was basically the same as a straight output of the phototransisor when using say, a 2n2222. It seemed to be performing the task equally well with or without this "amplifier" circuit.

To finish this off, I basically tried every configuration of this kind of sensor. Pull-ups, pull-downs, transistors, transistor-to-transisitor-to-transistor set-ups, pull-up/down resistors from 1k to 10M, etc. etc, etc.  --All in all, I could not seem to do better than this 5" (13cm) range nor did I ever see the kind of numbers I can see from the compound eye. What the hell am I doing wrong, and how do I make a simple R/L or R/C/L IR obstical sensor? Sheesh! I used to know how to do this kind of stuff.

 

--You guys using magic parts or something, Oddbot?

Obstical

Yeah, I know…  “Obsticle”…

ah aah…

Obstacle  heh.

I have revisited this

I have revisited this recently myself and it was just as frustrating for me. I’ve tried to build a distance sensor a few times using the Ir receivers with digital output but failed miserably. So I decided to buy some phototransistors instead.
I couldn’t get the same phototransistors as oddbot uses in his compund eye. They give a much better voltage response than the ones I bought, being only in the microamps they needed an amp to work with.
So until I’m feeling inspired again and placing an order for other parts I have suspended my experiments with this.
I had thought of buying a compound eye. At the price I could steal the parts but I think they come assembled now don’t they?

I have re-built the compound

I have re-built the compound eye as well and it works even better than the original one, because of the arrangment of the LED’s/photo transistors.

The photo transistors are connected in this way only for logical reasons: No light - 0 V. Full light - VCC. You can use the inverted configuration (emitter connected to ground and the resistor connected to collector) and would get: No light - VCC. Full light - 0V.