Ok so far this is what i know i need for the phoenix:
18 x HS-645 servos
18 x HMSH-02 aluminum servo horns (optional)
6 x ASB-04 brackets
1 x Phoenix kit (color option)
1 x Bot Board plus Atom Pro 28 processor
1 x SSC-32 servo controller
What else do i need? What screws and wires? Anything else? PS2 remote? I know i’m missing stuff…
Thanks
Last thing i want is to open the box and find out i forgot to order something and i need to wait X amount of time before building it It’s a hassle to buy parts where i live (heck even simple screws are a pain to find!!!).
Thanks
I plan to use the WII Remote to make it work, do i need specific sensors or programs? Thx
i bought my phoenix project a few weeks back and of the parts ordered (from suggestions on a previous thread) there are things i’ve not yet had a use for. These include:
• BotBoard II and Atom
• PS2 controller and PS2 interface
I guess that once PowerPod supports the phoenix i’ll need them, but from reading other threads, it looks like I’ll need an Atom Pro - so the chip i’ve got looks like a duff buying decision/advice.
Things you’ll need include
• power supply 6v NiMH pack or 7.4 Lipoly with a HD regulator (see MPI HD reg) You’ll probably be better off with separate lipoly packs for the electronics and servos, but you’ll only need 1 reg (to bring the servo supply down to 6v).
• additional power switch - if you’re using 2 power packs
• additional screws - the basic pack contents allows for 2 screws per servo horn NOT 4 - i can’t remember how many extra i had to buy, think it was around 20.
• a copy of the LM SEQ sequencer application
• Sparkfun bluesmirf - if you’re going to use the current version of PEP
• red and black wire - of a suitable guage
• a few pairs of 3.5 mm gold bullet connectors or whatever you prefer
• black and red heat shrink - various sizes
• solder
• few packs of diy futaba servo connectors - if you plan to shorten your servo leads or need to make jumpers for the bluesmirf
• nylon zip ties
The current version of PEP requires the chassis and SSC-32 to be installed the the opposite way around to the way shown in the on-line instructions. This is because PEP specifies that the servos go into different pins on the SSC-32.
With this orientation the serial cable exits the rear of the hex’ which significantly reduces the range of motion for the rear leg coxa servos. At the moment my SSC-32 is sitting free on top of the chassis to get around this issue. If you want to keep the SSC-32 inside the chassis (where it should be) i’d suggest installing a BlueSmirf so you have wireless communication with your PC. There’s a tutorial on here somewhere explaining how to do this.
If you’re experienced with programming the SSC and/or other hex’ type bots the phoenix will be fine. But as a complete novice to this kind of 'bot i’ve found that it’s not a ‘turn key’ solution - which is why my hex is still sitting on a cd cakebox looking a bit sorry for her self.
As far as wii control goes - i think i saw a thread with some early examples of test work, but unless i’m mistaken, there isn’t an off the shelf solution to this yet - unless of course you planning on writing something yourself.
Welcome on this forum! It looks like you’ve got the most of it. I don’t know if you need any extra screws. Jim knows that exactly There are a few other things that you need to think about:
wires between the botboard and the SSC32. I don’t know if they are in the SSC package but I’m running with both RX and TX connected so you need 3 (one extra for GND)
You probably need some power options. For the servos I’m using a custom made 5 cells NiMH battery pack but you can also go for a LiPo or something else. So for this you need some wires, connectors a charger and the actual battery pack For the LiPo you also need some onboard regulator. For the logic you need something like a 9V battery + clip. Maybe you want some switches (I don’t know what is included)
You also need something to control your phoenix. The easiest way to go (I think) is with the PS2 remote. You can connect the PS2 remote directly to the botboard. You may need to add some pull-up resistors. View this topic for more information: lynxmotion.net/viewtopic.php?p=1106#1106.
As for the Wii remote I’m using a Wii remote myself. The Wii remote uses the HID (Human Interface Device) protocol over Bluetooth it is easy to connect the Wii remote to PC with just a normal Bluetooth module. If you want to connect the Wii remote directly to the BotBoard you are very welcome to join me looking for a embedded solution that’s HID compatible. Currently I’ve got a BlueSmirf connected to the BotBoard. The BlueSmirf allows me to build a wireless serial connection to my pc using SPP (serial port protocol). The Wii remote is not compatible with SPP so I build a .net application “WiiPortalâ€
Where can i buy this ‘BlueSmirf’? Google keeps poping up wierd links…
Also, which batteries (and what else that goes with them) should i buy for the Phoenix? I don’t want to burn anything or get somethign not powerful enough… Oh and no LIPO, last one blew up in my AEG.
I’m using a cusom made 5 cells NiMH 4200mAh battery pack. That gives me a runtime from about 20 min. I’m using a cusom made 5 cells NiMH 4200mAh battery pack. That gives me a runtime from about 20 min. It strongly depends if the Bluetooth is on . (while programming/testing I’m using a serial cable) I purchased the batteries in a local hobby shop.
Um, all you are talking about is adding a simple header to the board… what’s the problem Sparkfun even sells the headers. It is much easier to add a header than remove it for people that don’t want one attached. Honestly, taken to the extreme, it becomes a failure point as a connector since it can rattle loose over time.
The kits were parted out with 2 screws per joint as all of our kits are. The chassis only has 2 holes per joint so no need for extras there. So for the 12 legs joints you will need 24 screws if you want to use 4 screws per joint. We sell a 25 pack on the website. They are 2-56 x 1/4" long Phillips head machine screws.
I didn’t know that. The SSC-32 includes a DC-01 which is for RX only. The good news is it can be done with a 6" servo extender cable. Just plug in the SSC-32 side with black on ground, RX on red and TX on yellow. On the Bot Board side remove the red wire from the plastic housing, install a short piece of heat shrink over the female plug and plug it into the I/O pins so the the black wire is on ground, and the other two are on I/.O pins for RX and TX.
No the Bot Board II does not require the pullups to be installed. They are already there.
I use the TX for a kind of handshaking. When the SSC is driving the servos to the next position the ATOM is already making the calculations for the next step. When the calculations are done, it will wait till the SSC is finished and I’ll send the next position. This way the movements are always finished which resolves in a more fluent movement.
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It’s a hassle to buy parts where i live (heck even simple screws are a pain to find!!!).
Sparkfun even 
