They are too
But yes they are connected terminal to terminal. As an extra measure, you could also connect additional capacitors. One from terminal A to the motor casing and another one from terminal B to the casing.
But usually you would do that only if the one capacitor seems insufficient.
I was just looking up motor noise…
So, I’d thought I’d post someones very pretty explanation (with diagrams)!
http://www.beam-wiki.org/wiki/Reducing_Motor_Noise
3 Strategies
Good
Better
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Ok, I understand now. Thanks!
Ok, I understand now. Thanks!
Challenge!
Hi ignoblegnome, would you consider the challenge of turning upside down the motor so the wheels are free enough to stand this robot up and create a “Start here self balancing robot”?.
Nope. That’s not what Penny
Nope. That’s not what Penny is designed for, and I have minimal interest in a balancing robot right now.
However, there are a few balancing robots on this site. Search for them and check them out. If that is where your interest lies, give it a try yourself.
can we connect more than one
can we connect more than one servo and dc motors directly to adruino without using any kind of shield ?..
it may reset the arduino
it may reset the arduino while running, if the load on the motor suddenly increases like when hitting an obstacle. I just had this problem with two servos powered from the 5 volt regulated output
hey i think u can slightly
hey i think u can slightly alter the program so that the wheels can turn when the robot is a bit further than the obstacle :D
I do have other plans for
I do have other plans for Penny’s coding, but I’m waiting on a good encoder solution so I can have accurate control of my motors. I’ll get around to it sooner or later.
Poewring
I see you have used 4xAA alkaline batteries… this is 1.5x4=6V
According to Arduino documentation you should be using 7-12 V as external power source 
Did you notice any problem? Should I use a 6 x AA holder? (specially if I use rechargables)
Maybe another type of battery?
My SHR will be pretty similar… with a more powerful servo (too much but it is what I have) and a Maxbotix EZ1 ultrasonic instead of the Sharp IR sensor
Thanks!
I’ve had good success with
I’ve had good success with 4xAA alkaline batteries. I doubt it would work with 1.2V rechargables, as this would only provide 4.8V, and the voltage regulator wants to put out 5V.
The Arduino documentation actually recommends 7-12V, but says it may work as low as 6V or as high as 20V. Re-read the section under ‘Power’.
http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardUno
I’m planning to invest in a charger and some NiMh racing packs, but so far I’ve always used alkalines.
A 6xAA battery holder as you suggest is a fine way to go. I wanted to keep it small, so I went with only 4xAA.
And a 9V battery?
A small 9V battery (with clip) might do also… but i read somewhere it would have very little autonomy (low mAh?)
What would be the expected autonomy for a robot like this? I want to pay with it but not have it running for ever… so a few hours might be enough…?
The motors and servo will
The motors and servo will draw more current than a 9V can provide.
The solarbotics motors draw
The solarbotics motors draw around 50 mAh if I remember correctly, but a 9V battery only holds (at best) 300mAh, so it’ll only last a few hours. Rechargeable 9V batteries (make sure its the 8.4V ones not the 7.2V with filler ones) would only last an hour or two.
Connecting motors
I already have my pololu plastic geared motors 120:1 … and the ro-bot-x shield is on its way! 
May you give me a “for dummies” explanation on how to wire the motors to the shield/arduino? I have looked in several pages but I am not 100% sure… and I seem to see a resistor in front of yor motors?
Thanks!
Cool, good luck with
Cool, good luck with it.
There’s no resistor in front of the motors. They connect directly to the screw terminals for the motors on the shield. There are capacitors soldered across the motor leads, which helps reduce electrical noise from the motors.
Everything else is pretty straight forward. The servo connects to one of the servo ports (make sure you connect it in the correct orientation). The Sharp IR sensor connects to one of the sensor ports (again, make sure you connect power, signal and ground correctly).
The new assembly guide I
The new assembly guide I wrote for the V3 explains better how to connect the servos and the sensors. For the motors, you get 2 wires per motor, just plug them in the screw connectors, then load the program in the Arduino and have it drive the robot forward. Look how the wheels spin, if one motor spins in the wrong direction, just reverse the wires for that motor in the screw connector. Then have the program turn the robot to the left and see if it turns properly. If not, you need to swap the motors in the screw connectors, then have the robot drive forward again. Use the program in the guide to test your robot.
I ordered some new parts for
I ordered some new parts for Penny. I’ll replace the worn out traction bands on her wheels so she has grip again. More importantly, I ordered a pair of wheel watcher motor encoders for Penny’s motors. This will let her track her movements precisely, which she’ll need for good penmanship.
What type of file is the
What type of file is the code in? Is it in the .pde file attached? Plz reply fast thnx!
