Very nice Nick!
Can’t wait for the video!
Quick quiestion about the image that is showing your machine sittng down:
It looks like you have the feet mounted backwards, did you do this to more stability?
Well, initially, I did it because Jim’s prototype was like that.
But, I tried the other way out for a bit, and I didn’t like it.
There was nothing that I could put my finger on that was wrong with the normal way; I just liked the other (kind of dumb, eh?).
Nick, which servos did you decide on using?
Tinman
Hey Nick,
If you are still having issues with paint flaking off of the wires, you might want to try plastic conduit. I think you can get it at Home Depot or Lowes or even your local parts store.
http://www.directdial.com/dd2/images/New_ImageDir_SMALL/C/TN_CR1011P.gif
Tin, I’m using HS5645MG’s.
I wanted to use 5995’s, but I can’t afford that now, or in the forseeable future.
Mike, I had actually thought of using that stuff, but I couldn’t seem to find a place where I could get it.
I had no idea that the Depot sold it.
I’ll drop by there soon, and see if it’s flexible enough to do the job.
Thanks.
Btw, I’m not getting much done this weekend because I have to catch up on all that homework that my professors thought that I’d have all week to do.
.<
Nick,
After searching the web for an hour, I finally found the best website for all of us guys wanting to dress up our bots with custom colored wire management conduit. The below pic shows the wide range of colors we can use for our creations, and you can even use chrome looms to enhance the “machine” look. 1/4" looms would be perfect for servo wires.
Here is the website:
cableorganizer.com/wire-loom/colored.html
I know this question has been asked before, but what is the parts list to assemble the torso minus the brackes for the arms and legs? I want to buy enough brackets to assemble the torso for starters.
I also don’t see how on earth the head rotate servo is mounted either.
Thanks!
It took me a while to figure that out myself.
I actually meant to type up a list before, but I had forgotten about it (which is perfectly reasonable, considering that I HAVE A ROBOT, WOOOHOOOO!).
Here’s my parts list for the Humanoid Biped w/ waist Rotate
There’s nothing that says that you have to do it this way (I recommend that you try it your own way), and don’t bite my head off if I’ve forgotten something.
If you go with the legs and a set of arms from the website, these are the brackets that you’ll need for the torso and head:
(I’m putting them in order, from the bottom of the biped to the top of the biped.)
(Many brackets are bought in pairs.
The brackets listed below, however, are listed as singles.
So, 2 ASB-11 = two ASB-11 brackets, not two pairs of ASB-11 brackets.)
Thighs:
2 ASB-11 *
2 ASB-04
2 Servos
1 AHC-1
Abdomen:
1 LPA-1 **
1 Servo
1 ASB-09
Chest:
1 ASB-12
2 ASB-04
2 Servos
Head (I didn’t buy these, but this is what I believe is used to make the head. I’m 94% sure.):
1 ASB-06
1 ASB-04
1 Servo
1 Rangefinder
Backpack (this is my design that I’ve adapted to be able to fit the head in the future):
1 ASB-06
2 ASB-02 (modified)
1 Piece of lexan, or Biped Scout’s Electronics Carier ****
X Hex Standoffs *****
Chestpack
1 Piece of lexan, or Biped Scout’s Electronics Carier ****
X Hex Standoffs *****
*Note the two ASB-11’s in the Thighs section.
In the tutorial, it shows ASB-09’s as being the proper “C” bracket to use.
This is only for the older biped, though.
Look at the new biped, it uses slanted “C” brackets.
**If you are buying aluminum servo horns (not sold, yet) you won’t need one for the LPA-1’s servo.
The LPA-1 comes with the plastic cut-out gear that you stick on the servo output.
So, you’d have nothing to stick your shiney servo horn on.
*** I’m not sure how to attach the rangefinder to the servo horn, because I’ve never used a rangefinder.
I’m sure that someone knows, though.
**** Ask Jim if he can sell you one of these, on the side. They’re not listed on the site as being sold seperately (they come with the Biped Scout kit), but he may be willing to sell you them, anyway.
Alternatively, you can buy a piece of Lexxan from the site and drill four holes in it.
I recommend the latter, because you can then build a complete casing (on all 6 sides), instead of just having a single mounting plate.
I’ll be making my own complete backpack soon, (as well as a chest pack) and I’ll be posting dimensions and pics.
***** The exact amount of hex standoffs depends on how many electronic boards you stack.
3/4" standoffs give just enough height to clear the SSC-32 and the attached servo couplings, but it’s a VERY tight fit, so be warned.
****** With a bit of wiggling, the SSC-32, and any other same-sized board will fit on the four inside holes on the two chest ASB-04’s, without any modification.
I put the 1/2" hex bolts straight through the ASB-04’s, through the 1/8" thick kydex (stronger than lexan and static-proof), through the SSC-32 (or whatever), and into the hex standoffs.
Real simple, it’s scary how well everything fits together, even when I’m not attaching like I’m “supposed” to.
Kudos, Jim.
Here’s a pic of what I did to the ASB-02’s:
x11.putfile.com/3/7715073993.jpg
Here’s a pic of how the backpack is mounted:
x11.putfile.com/3/7714523034-thumb.jpg
Hope this helps.
Let me know if there are any parts (no pun intended) that are still confusing.
^.^
EDIT:
I labeled the bent brackets “ASB-12’s” in the last picture, but they are, in fact, ASB-02’s.
Sorry, typo.
And, now for an update on my project:
Today, I’ve been working on setting up remote battery locations.
I’m placing two pairs of cells on the back shoulders (one pair on each, which you can see in the picture in the post above), and one cell on either side of the chest.
In the middle of the two chest cells is where I’m putting the WiPort.
In the middle, and farther back of the other four cells is the backpack.
I know this all sounds confusing, so I’ll post a pic once I’ve completed it.
Right now, I’ve gotten all the casings made, soldered a large gauge wire to half of them, and mounted the two pairs of cells that are on the back.
I still have to solder the other half of them, and figure out how to mount the WiPort and the other two cells to the chest.
After that’s done, I’ll be making a Kydex (a tad stronger than lexan, and static-proof, in my case) backpack and chestpack.
Yesterday, I spent the whole day cutting out the cusshioning in my biped’s aluminum briefcase, which had just arrived.
The case is 6" thick, so it’s amply thick enough for the bot.
You can find this case in the ebay stores.
They’re about $40-50, and they’re not the best-built cases, but they look like they’ll do the job.
Plus, it’s shiney and all professional-looking.
Here’s a pic of the inside:
x11.putfile.com/3/7715132119-thumb.jpg
Very nice,
Thanks for the list Nick, I appreciate it.
Using a custom case for an expensive project is a very good idea. I have a little dog that loves to chew everything on floor level, and A case like this would be a good idea in my situation.
I have countless ducks (which are outside, and can’t get to my biped, that is, until I bring him out to pester them, muahaha), and multiple siblings, who know that touching it = death.
The real reason for me having it so that I can transport it to and from my college, without damage.
I have a lot of time between classes, so I usually spend it in by breaking into a shop class for the tools that I need to fix my bots.
Cool carrying case, after all the little guy’s gotta have a place to sleep.
Hey Nick I just had a thought, wonder what the security folks at an airport would think if they screened that as carry-on luggage!
Those battery packs would look mighty suspect in and x-ray machine!
Your project is looking great, can’t wait to see him in action.
Mike, cool link for those colored wire conduits, I like those chrome ones. Adds a little “bling, bling”.
Tinman
Yea, great site, Mike.
I’ll have to steal my brother’s card again so I can get some o’ the shiney ones.
Hopefully, they’ll be flexible enough for the purpose.
Tin, you don’t know how right you were.
I took my buddy to college and got stopped by the campus police TWICE.
Here’s a sample of the conversations:
Rent-A-Cop, “Uh, son, whatcha got in that there case?”
Nick, “A robot.”
Rent-A-Cop, “No, really?”
Nick, “Yes. I’m already late; can I go to class, now?”
Rent-A-Cop, “Well, I’ll have to search that case of yours. Hmm… What’s this contraption?”
Nick, “A soldering iron.”
Rent-A-Cop, “Looks like a weapon to me. And what about this?”
Nick, “A volt meter.”
Rent-A-Cop, “So, what’s it do?”
Nick, “It measures volts.”
Rent-A-Cop, “Now, don’t get smart with me. How am I supposed to know what a ‘volt’ is?”
Nick, ::sigh:: “It measures electricity.”
And on it went…
Needless to say, I was a bit snappy with the second cop, who thankfully wasn’t a total dope.
I used to think that Campus Police were guys that couldn’t pass the tests to become a real cop.
Now, I’m starting to think that they’re the ones that couldn’t pass the IQ test.
Thats to funny!
Nick,
Am I gona hafta fly up to Jersey to see your bibed walk? Where’s the video!!?
yea nick, we want video, to tell u the truth this is the first thing i check wen i get online after school
so…
mush
Perhaps he’ll prove me wrong, but who here had their bots walking within a day or two of getting the kit? Maybe some of the Hex folks, but a biped? Give the man some time!
Time!! ? he don’t need no stinking time…
I’ve been haphazardly throwing together different walking gaits, at the rate of about a full gait per two days, but I can’t seem to keep up with my fabrication.
I make a new backpack for the bot, and the gait that was almost finished has to be completely redone.
I change the placement of the batteries…
I affix the FSR circuit…
The FSR circuit dies…
The WiPort gets taken off to be sent back to David for testing…
Well, hopefully, I’ll get crackin’ soon.
But, any gait that I develop now will be trashed in a few days, anyhow.
I’d say that it’ll be at least two weeks until I have things more or less static, and can truly get going with it.
I also have been hoping to have the biped learn how to walk, rather than teach it myself.
With a few pre-programmed cues, I should be able to get something that appears to be walking to happen.
But, that has to wait on the FSR’s to get replaced (super-glue eats them, apparently), and the WiPort to get replaced/fixed, and the chest and backpack to be finished… and the list goes on.
Meanwhilst, my brother has been coming over to teach me how to weld so I can build the frame of my battlebot.
Between the two bots, oh yea, and that school stuff, I’m stretched sort of thin.
I need a cloning device.
Mike, could you draw me up a circuit for one with Eagle, and knock together a titanium casing for one with eMachineShop?
just hire some dude to help you out
well, i guess im gonna havta find something to do on my own time meanwhile 
cant do anything with my buddies, got and ear and sinus infection 
anyway, the project is lookin really cool right about now, and wen you get your battlebot started b sure to post that up along with a video of ur biped 
that’ll wicked cool
I was hoping to eventually post a picture of the biped driving the battlebot, but the bar that’ll be spinning at about 50mph might get in the way of that.
Perhaps I’ll have the biped drive it with the remote control…