haha… k thanks mate… i
haha… k thanks mate… i never expected to spend so much on a soldering iron… ill look it up tanks!
although I dont think im willing to spend so much on a soldering iron when im not gonna solder much… i bought 100+ female jumpers + 50+ f/m jumpers… I just need to solder header pins on and im good to go!
I got a cold heat soldering
I got a cold heat soldering iron for $20. It works well IF you understand how it works. The end doesn’t heat up. It just electrecutes the wire to heat it up so the solder will melt. I’m sure people here hate it but I like it 
Even a cheap Hakko
I got a $30 or $35 Hakko that works great. Hakko Dash 25 watt. Previous 15 W was ok, but like the higher wattage better.
whatever works
Hey man, whatever works. I’d rather be making those removeable connections that you are than soldering. That would definitely solve some of my problems.
I’m still working out which connectors I should use in hobby (haven’t bought a crimp tool yet). Yeah, I think your solution is best for this. I do some heavy soldering and surface mount work :-p
FritsCode
delete
I am not sure I understand 1
I am not sure I understand 1 & 2, can you be more specific?
Perhaps, can you tell me which part of the instruction that you are uncertain about?
- And I’ll get back to you tomorrow, thanks.
reposted on the tutorial
1. What output did you use for the playback of your Recording Board?
2. Same but what output for the record button?
3. For the Recording board, does it matter which V&G I connect to on the Picaxe?
4. For the spare L293D for the GM10s, you used four GM10s, all with one L293D, which GM10 did you use for which port on the 2nd L293D
5. And finally, which output/V&G did you use for the spare L293D
reposted on the tutorial page for all to see 
capacitor
Your motor controller needs a capacitor. I used two IIRC. About 10uF should do it, but I’d rather go in the hundreds range to be safe.
Otherwise, it is rather straightforward. Have a look at the datasheet, as I forget how the chip is wired now. Learning about H bridges is essential. I built an h bridge that would take … up to around 600 volts (I’ve tested to 200) and switch over 3 amps at 200kHz.
Thats some heavy-duty stuff man. Definitely worth learning about.
Are you positive a capaciter
Are you positive a capaciter is needed? The other three people who have built a drum machine, and used an L293D/other motor controller, have not used a capaciter, actually the only miscellaneous electronic was a resistor, and even so was proably very little ohms
with my stick controller I
with my stick controller I found it helpful to wire up the chip on my breadboard first. One thing you should check is to make sure you connect all the grounds together, and make sure the ground from the L293 is connected to the one from your MCU. I still dont know why that is needed, somebody tried to explain it to me but I didnt really understand. However it makes all the difference. Also I dunno how essential this is, but I used a 47k pullup resistor on the enable pins, basically I connected them together thus:
enable1/2 -> enable3/4 -> 47k -> 5vcc
that was the setup that worked for me pretty much…
I didn’t use a capacitor on
I didn’t use a capacitor on the SN754410 on Little Drum Machine, but I did use them on Little PIC:
(The SN754410 is the bottom chip). Basically, it never hurts to add capacitors to motor circuits, and it almost always helps. You should get in the habit of just always using them. Buy a bunch of 0.1 uF capacitors and sprinkle them around like candy :)
For months now I haven't been able to get my BullyBot to move -- I had soldered one 0.1 uF capacitor across each of the two motors in the Tamiya dual gearbox, so I thought that couldn't be the problem, but still when I sent the command to the Pololu motor controller to drive the motors forward, they'd pulse for a second and then the system would reset. Finally I added two more capacitors to each motor like Pololu suggests (even though in this thread I had mentioned how I didn't understand what the point was), and once I had the three capacitors on each motor, the problem cleared right up. I can't believe I struggled for months when all I needed was a few more capacitors :)
Dan
No I get what connections go
No I get what connections go to where, but according to the L293D datasheet, I must connect all (4) grounds, to four G pins on the MCU, and the same for the Voltage, as well as output (each of them have four)? Do I only need one for each?
You only need to connect one
You only need to connect one of the grounds, unless you’re powering motors that draw close to the limits of the chip’s current capabilities. In that case, it makes sense to connect all 4 grounds, because the grounds also act as the heat sink connections to draw heat away from the chip.
The two voltages, Vcc1 and Vcc2, are different – Vcc1 is the one that powers the L293D’s logic circuits, and Vcc2 is the voltage that is fed to the motors. Vcc1 should be connected to the 5v from your microcontroller, and Vcc2 should be connected to the battery positive. If you’re using a separate battery for the motors, then Vcc2 should be connected to that battery.
As for the 4 outputs, obviously you shouldn’t connect all four of those together 1Y and 2Y should be connected to the two motor leads of one motor, and 3Y and 4Y go to the second motor.
Dan
Tis exactly what I was
Tis exactly what I was looking for, thanks mate!
Impedance
The mitor controller is going to want a zero-impedance voltage source at its inputs. I am running off of a protoboard, and power traces are fairly long so when the motor would try and switch on the motors, I am assuming the voltage at the motor chip would dip below a cutoff and then shut the chip down until the voltage rose again.
I was experiencing jerky motor problems. I was also running off of batteries. I can see how using a cap may be a problem for some builders, but I , in all honesty, probably own over 400 caps of different sizes/voltages. I have 'em to spare, and they are only like 10 cents each.
In response to your question, a capacitor is not always nessecary. It was for me. Pardon my spelling.
Ok, so I connected and it
Ok, so I connected and it worked fine, proving that my L293D board is not the problem its my connections,
Blue and white are obviously outputs
And can anyone tell me the outputs connected on the Picaxe 28x1 Board where I can run the code from Fritsl's YDM tutorial page with the GM10 as the head?
This looks amazin
This looks amazin
|echo
