My ABB Fried! :(

Well, i knew this was coming. I didn’t expect it to happen anytime soon, but it did. I was in the middle of testing my ABB because it was starting to have ALL kinds of issues. Such as, in a program I set a certain pin to high and the voltage coming through was not enough to drive a motor I had connected. I measured it with my Multimeter and it was rated at around a little more than a volt. I couldn’t figure out what the issue was, so I checked the battery also…and that said 6.8v, which is perfect. Servos I had used with the ABB worked fine, but not a servo modified into a regular motor (basically, I removed the electronics that where inside the servo, and just connected the motor itself, for continues rotation purposes). And yes, I tested the motor itself, and when connected directly to the battery it ran perfectly. So anyway, as I was still testing, one of the metal leads in the multimeter accidentally shorted the bot board…And puff went the ABB, and I cried “HOLY SMOKES!” (lol, I really did say that). So now here I am, bot-board-less.

So how’d you like my story? :unamused: jk.

So where was I…oh yeah. So now I am looking for a new micro controller

(Sorry lynxmotion, I just had a bad experience with the ABB).

I was thinking of getting the Propeller chip, but I’m wondering if it can move a group of servos at once. Can someone shed some light on this please? Thanks!

Mmmm…, that is probably close to dead shorting the pin.

So you’re saying the pin was already shorted?

Oh, and BTW it burnt pretty badly. The wire on the board is completely disintegrated.

please tell us that you were not trying to run a motor directly connected to pins from bot board with no controller in between.

…ah, Yes? :laughing:

Sorry, i didn’t really understand what would happen. What exactly did i do?

If it is just a trace on the board that shorted and failed, you may be able to jumper around it with a wire.

That’s pretty much what happend. The bot board still functions except pins 4-7.

basically you are trying to supply several hundred miliamperes of current from output(s) designed to deliver at most tens of miliamperes… coupled with an indictive load that makes all sorts of high voltage spikes as it commutates. it is highly unlikely just the traces on the bot board are fried, although if the atom pins adjacent to the ones not working are intact and functioning it is pretty amazing.

I didn’t fry it with the motor, I shorted it out with a multimeter. :confused:

sigh I guess I’m going to have to buy the ABB-II.

Since only the traces on the board are burnt, and the atom still seems to be intact, would I be able to use those other pins that contain the inverter (for Basic Stamp PS2 control) for general stuff? like controlling LED’s?

I would think the chip would fry before a trace on the board. I know you said you shorted the pin with the meter, but in the future I would not advise trying to run any motor directly from an I/O pin. You could keep the board for a BS2 and only be out those pin locations IF in fact the traces on the board burnt. You could take sandpaper and buff off the masking exposing the copper trace and solder a jumper wire over the affected area. You can only do this if the trace is accessible. If the trace that is burnt is located under a component part then it really may not be worth your time.

No, I don’t think you understand. so I got some pictures to help:

http://www.majhost.com/gallery/DarthToa/Robots/burn.png
http://www.majhost.com/gallery/DarthToa/Robots/burn2.png

Wowy… dude just put this program into the Atom and see if the I/O pins work.

start: low p4 low p5 low p6 low p7 pause 1000 high p4 high p5 high p6 high p7 pause 1000 goto start

The power trace is all that’s cooked. There are ways to get the power to the device connected to this I/O group. The I/O pin with the motor connected to it should be dead.

Looks like the trace is between through-hole pins; should be able to simply solder on a solid wire jumper to the underside of the board to fix.

I’d scrape off the old trace first (cosmetics).

Alan KM6VV

Thanks Robot Dude. it works! for some reason I had a thought stuck in my head that was telling me I tested it already. I guess I didn’t…

Oh, and my Multimeter is returning 2.83v. Is that okay?