The two boards are sitting on top of each other. Note: I don’t show it here but I needed to use a stacking header between the two otherwise the parts run into each other as I built the Teensy into a socket as to make it such that I can remove the T4.1 and try with other boards or replace the board…
I cut off a battery connector from an old bad battery and wired it into a Trossen Robotics Bioloid MUX which has wire terminal and Plug, which 90+% of the time I use to a wall wart like thing (actually either 5 amp or 10amp 12v brick).
At some point would like to wire something up with a plug that goes to some wire harness that the battery plugs into with a switch and if @Zenta is still doing like before maybe a fuse that blows if there is a short… Not sure if Robotshop sells a wire harness like this?
Should probably look
I think you need more playtime so things cannot collect dust
When talking about stacking. It is not clear to me which board is on the top. I think having the teensy board on top would be the most convenient since it has all pins to connect sensors/displays and stuff. Or is this not possible?
Dust - Issue is on property up a half mile gravel road with a very long gravel (dirt) driveway and muddy trails, which I take our two larger dogs on walks each day… Plus too many things to keep my attention.
Just for the fun of it, today played around with another version of the arduino shield like board, which removed some stuff:
I removed the power connector, plus the VR (DCDC Converter) plus changed switch to simple jumper that if you cut the VIN/VUSB connection on teensy you can jumper them back to each other when you wish to run with the teensy getting power over USB.
But the main difference is that I removed the 4 transistors and 8 resistors that were used to do level shifting for the two UARTS (one for Servos and other for XBEE and instead set it up with pin pattern for the Sparkfun Level shifter
Which if anyone is interested, probably makes a pretty easy assembly. Alternatively could use an Adafruit version instead like:
But it is a bit longer such that I would need to make sure there is room and they don’t have the same order of pins. So would likely go one way or the other.
And of course you only need to assemble as much of it as you desire.
You mainly would need the sockets (or direct solder) of Teensy, connectors for shield and the converter.
If you want the simple sound, it rquires, the speaker and the few discrete components around it:
If you want the ability to easily connect to the other Teensy pins, then populate some or all of those connectors.
R1/R2 - Voltage divider from your VIN pin on shield to make easier to measure voltage.
A couple of servo connections. Probably don’t need, not sure how much current you can get from your Shield connector…
JQW - are for QWIIC connectors only put on if you want them. I find it fun to play with things like: Display, keypad, button, IMU…
USB - I will be using for things like BT to PS3/4… The two pin connector near it, I put in again for USB signals to hook up Logic Analyzer…
Nice! I was hoping it would also be possible to place the LSS adaptor on the bottom. Since the Teensy board has all the I/O pins it would be easier to access while experimenting…
@xan - That might cause issues as the LSS-ADA is made to be attached with long pins header which goes through the LSS-ADA and connect the Arduino underneath.
However all of those pins, if breakout on Kurte board, would be available on those top mounted headers.
Another option would be 90deg pins on Kurte board to have them stick on the side.
Not sure if yo u are saying that they don’t align?
Side note: Your drawing of the Teensy is rotated 180 degrees. That is the USB of the teensy is on the same side as the USB Host connector. Wotj the SD at the other end near your power connector.
My guess is that you could probably assemble it with the boards with the shield on bottom, with their extension ones going through. I have not tried it, as I wondered how much electrical interference might occur with the XBee communications… But again maybe the chip type XBee may have it far enough out to not worry too much.
Thanks,
I will take a look… Or if you know how much I am off, that would be good to know as well…
My first two versions, just shipped from PCBWay, but may order a new simple version like I mentioned above. Here is with a different 3d part of the T4.1 (off of grabcad)
@cbenson@xan@kurte I’m alive… First need to read trough all posts since my last post. I’ve been occupied with other projects lately. To be honest I’ve abandoned this stuff for a while, when I didn’t get anything to work I kinda gave up. The best solution for me is to have a board that carry a T4 that works and runs Xan’s and Kurt’s code before I start messing around with my stuff. First ,need to be updated on what you are doing before commenting anything. Just wanted you to know I’m still here. Btw, Happy new year
Hi again. (More updated now.)
Personally I do like a single board with a relative small formfactor giving more freedom when it comes to different design, I do like the one single board you posted @kurte. Not so fan of the barrel connectors though. They are convenient during testing though, but a bit bulky.
On the other hand I understand you want to use the LSS-ADA.
When it comes to remote I’ve so far used XBee based remotes, my latest was based on the code used on Trossen’s remote. But I’ve noticed some issues when doing both RX and TX , also the range can sometimes be limited, especially in areas with lots of RF noise. On some exhibitions I need to be very close for not loosing contact.
You have mentioned RC remotes. And that might be a good option. I’ve recently done some stuff with FPV drones and used OpenTX transmitters, like the FrSky Taranis. The receivers are pretty small, using SBUS, have telemetry and also have little latency would be a good alternative for controlling robots. A much more robust solution I think.
I do have a PS4 remote laying around. Not a big fan, but they would probably do the job much better than the obsolete PS2’s.
Played around some more with the simple shield one using sparkfun adapter. I moved the Arduino headers slightly to hopefully get it closer to the same spacing as the shield has…
I tried to get a reasonably close measurement from my actual shield from where pin 0 is to the edge of the board as I have not seen anywhere that this one is specified…
@kurte - What is the decision behind the removal of the logic level converter (on board) for the SparkFun breakout ? If that’s to make it easier for us to populated the board, i rather use mosfet on board.
I already have that one from you, so for my case I’m fine. XT60 are great connectors for the battery. Still bulky but it can take the load much better than the barrel connector. My point was that I prefer screw terminal instead of the barrel connector.
Actually I am just playing around. For myself I can hand solder the transistors and the like, but those who don’t like soldering much I thought I would see how hard it would be to make a simple version. For my own usage, I am more likely to just use the other board, as I may more likely use other setups as I am more likely to use the USB or RC over XBee. Although a lot of the time I have used XBee with the Arbotix commander which as I mentioned is no longer appears to be available.
Will check out your dimensions and see how far off I am. Will also adjust the one with the transistors as well…
