Hi
I am trying to limit the maximum output of a battery( Military Lithium Ion UBI2590) ultralifebatteries.com/datas … ?ID=UBBL02
My application requires 12 volts Maximum +/- 10%
How can i make sure my application does not get more the the required voltage using these great lightweight batteries?
Thanks
Chris
Or maybe this one: lynxmotion.com/Product.aspx?productID=470&CategoryID=48
That Lynxmotion sells.
Kurt
Will the Lynxmotion Adjustable HD Regulator accept 16.5 Volts?
What would the output range be?
Chris
The DE one is a switcher and will be more efficient. The one we are selling is linear. We are phasing them out for this reason. I know the linear one will require a fan to dissipate heat. The one thing you haven’t mentioned yet is what current you need from the system. What’s the current requirement?
1-12 Amps
Chris
What device is to be powered by this battery. For 12vdc rated devices, they are often ok at up to 16 vdc. The reason is many automobile power outlet devices are rated for 12-16vdc because this is what can be delivered by an automobiles 12 vdc system when it is running.
The 12amp current is going to be expensive to regulate from a 12 to 16 vdc supply. I wouldn’t even have a clue where to start looking. Unless maybe you use 4 of the DE ones in parallel. That $100.00 but it might just work…
I am considering powering this: 1 W transmitter.
(1 Amp, 12-13 VoltsDC Max)
vfmstore.com/tr100412.htm
and with a second battery this motor and speed controller:
(Input 14-15 VoltsDC max)
teamnovak.com/products/brush … index.html
Chris
The motor controller is plug and play with 14.4 lipo!
The other thing is only 500mA so you can power it through pretty much any old regulator. The DE one is good for this.
So what’s the problem? 
Not so much a problem as a goal.
I need to power the motor for 6-8 hours, so I started looking into bigger batteries like the UBI2590. The reading I get from a fully charged UBI2590 is 16,8 volts. I spoke to Novak, and they said I can’t use that much voltage. So I was looking for a way to drop that 16 volts down to the 14 volt range.
I’m a bit confused. Isn’t the battery you are referring to just four 3.7vdc Lipo cells in series? Doesn’t Novak state their controller will work for LiPo at 14.4vdc? If you can measure 16.8vdc form the battery fully charged, then logic would suggest that other LiPo packs would have the same topped off charge… Maybe you’re just not asking Novak the right questions.
You know it’s highly likely that the measured voltage would drop down to a more reasonable 14.4vdc range within a matter of seconds of use. Maybe you’re making a mountain out of a mole hill…
With a switchable regulator, this should not be an issue.
The battery is Lithium Ion. When I hook it up to the Motor, the Speed controller shuts down and then restarts- probably a self resetting circuit breaker, anyway I cant drive the vehicle at high speed or under load without the esc shutting itself down. I guess I’ll try the switchable regulator.
Chris
I may be able to gain runtime by linking 4 lipos in parallel, right? The Lipo’s work fine in the system.
Not sure which motor controller are you using, but they only list 2 that can take 4 LiPo cells. They both have a current rating of 400 amps! I know they are not traditionally known for their accuracy, but 400 amps… Your battery is only rated for a 12 amp max current draw… 
Your battery will not work because it apparently has a control board that limits the amount of current or uses less expensive cells that can not deliver a large amount of current.
It’s the batteries ability to deliver a large amount of current and has nothing to do with the voltage. Getting the regulator will be a waste of money. It will not help you.
Another thing, the battery is NOT a LiPo. It’s a Lithium Ion battery. A LiPo will have more current discharge capability, but what you want is Lithium Manganese Dioxide for the maximum discharge current capability.
Jim is quite right that it is the battery protecting itself from your motors that is the reason they crap out. these are designed to run communication equipment not motors. they also suck when they get cold if you didn’t know. you can put the two sides in parallel… that’ll get you about 24A… but they’re only about a 5AH pack each side. it’s also generally a pretty expensive way to get (2x) 4s3p of a 2200mahr li-ion cell pack.
Well, that makes sense.
I can still use the Lithium Ion batteries for the Video transmitter with the voltage regulator and use conventional Lipo’s or these Lithium Manganese Dioxide packs for the motor side. Do you guys know of any links for wiring 4 Lipo’s in Parallel?
And any info /sources on Lithium Manganese Dioxide packs?
Thanks
Chris
ok now that I have more than a couple minutes… the BB2590 has two 4S3P batteries made up of common 18650 sized li-ion cells, usually 2200mah. There is quite literally two separate batteries in the same package. In service they are always wired up as either a parallel or a series combination. So in your application you would presumably use them in parallel and get roughly a 12 to 13AHr pack… although the cerdec spec says it really only has to be about 10.8AHr so consider planning on that to be safe over the life of the pack(s).
I don’t see off hand why you could not parallel more than 2 sections. you want to make certain BOTH sections of ALL packs are ALWAYS fully charged before making that connection. the other thing to consider is small differences in the wiring harness impedance between each connection will gradually unbalance the sections with respect to each other. ideally keep those inter-connections as short and heavy as practical but also as equal as possible. that will help prevent one or two sections from carrying more of the load than the others. normally I’d say divide your load up across each battery but you may have a situation where short high current bursts are infrequent but enough to trip the overcurrent circuits in any given section. for this reason I’d suggest making a common node and then taking power to the ESC(s) from that. I think were I to try something like this I would make multiple identical cables as closely as possible and either crimp them together into a single pair of ring tongue terminals or solder them all to a pair of posts in a star configuration.
a nice side benfit of paralleling sections is they share a common ground so if you happen to have BB2590s with the SMBUS pins brought out then you can quite easily poll each section for the SOC and status words to know when a particular pack is the weak point in operation and schedule to swap it out on a future maintenance.
looking at the teamnovak website it appears their hv motor and the associated hv controller are rated to handle 4S lithium packs and so that combination should work fine with this battery. it would be nice to get some maximum current draw numbers…
lastly what you have not indicated is what your typical power draw is going to be over the duration of a 6 to 8Hr mission. how much time is spent manuvering, holding under torque, accelerating, or just running straight out. so it’s hard to say how many AHr you’ll need to meet your operational requirements without some more operational profile data. if you don’t know then I’d say make a set of (4) BB2590 connectors all the same length and wire them together as I indicated above. that should allow for roughly 48AHr which is 6A continuous (less than C/8 for each section) for about 8Hr. You can always cut connectors away if you find this to be too much overkill but it’s more difficult to add additional connectors later and have them equally matched to the existing ones.
