Bought a 3 in one kit with vu meter, light detector and temperature gauge.
Parts:
3x preformatted project boards (a15)
5x Blue 3mm LEDs
4x AN6884 ICs
5x Green 3mm LEDs
3x 18 pin dip sockets
5x Yellow 3mm LEDs
2x 12v spdt relays
5x Red 3mm LEDs
2x 1N4148 diodes
5x Orange 3mm LEDs
2x 2N3906 PNP transistors
2x 500K 6mm trimmers
8x 100 ohms 1/4w resistor
4x 10K 6mm trimmers
1x foot 24awg solid yellow wire
4x 10k 1/4w resistors
1x foot 24awg solid black wire
4x 4.7uf 25v elect caps
1x foot 24awg stranded Red wire
2x 2.2uf 16v elect caps
1x foot 24awg Green stranded wire
1x 4 push terminal (a13)
2x feet 24awg Yellow stranded wire
2x 2 push terminals (a14)
2x feet 24awg Black stranded wire
1x 10K OHM NTC Thermistor
1x KE10720 Photo Conductive Cell 650nm (missing, using my 10k one)
Got the schematics by e-mail http://minus.com/lyGZ10FPFn7J2 , only problem is that i'm a absolute begginer and can't quite make heads or tails of it. Specially with the 10k resistor or trimmer, how to wire the trimmers and relay
Resistors have no polarity. You can put them in the circuit any which way.
Trimmers, aka Potentiometers(?), have three leads. One lead is the wiper, the arrow in the schematic, and, two more leads. Like a resistor, it doesn’t matter which way you put the other two leads in the circuit. Just be sure to connect the wiper to the right point.
Could we see a pic of the relay? I would imagine there is a diagram on the body of the relay itself. If there is, you should be able to follow the diagram and connect it the same way it is shown in the schematic.
Since I can’t seem to find a datasheet for your relays,
I will offer my assistance the only way I know how. Relays work by energizing a coil and moving a lever/switch. When there is no voltage going through the coil the switch/lever will be laying away from the coil. When you energize, apply power, to the coil, the switch/lever will be pulled toward the coil and make a different connection.
That said, if you look at the schematic diagram, the relay is shown to have 5 connection points. 2 for the coil with a diode between them, 1 for the switch/lever, and 1 each for the circuits you will have control over. Take a multimeter and set it to either continuity, or, resistance/ohms. You will find that you have 2 pair of contacts that are closed circuits. 2 of those contacts are the relay coil. I believe they will show a fair bit of resistance. The other 2 will show almost no resistance. They are the switch/lever and the normally open (NO) pins. The pin that shows no resistance, aka open circuit, will be the normally closed (NC) pin. I would hope that, if there is no diagram on the relay, that the pin layout will assist you in figuring out which pins are for what.
If you are really lucky, someone smarter than myself will give you even better information.
the lines represent that when i touched the pins the value changed on my multimeter (set it to 200) should i connect the left ones together for bottom ? as in the schematic ?
If you scroll to page 2 at the bottom you will see 1 Form A and 1 Form C. Your relays are of the 1 Form C variety. The side with 3 pins has the coil pins on the outside and the switch/lever pin in the middle. The other side with 2 pins will be the NO and NC pins.
You have the relay drawn up correctly this run through, but, in the schematic you provided at the beginning there is no signal being passed through it other than making the switch/lever move back and forth. I read about a clock on hackaday that uses a relay for nothing more than a mechanical tic-toc like a second hand.
Re: diode.
Check this out http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flyback_diode I can’t really do much more than point to information for you to read. I have read about them many times, not yet had to use one. If the page I linked to doesn’t help, you have at least three choices. You may accept that the schematic says to place a diode in that orientation and move on with your life, possibly asking yourself why again later. You may research the reason for the diode more on your own. Or, you may find a much more expert person to answer your questions than me.
Also, regarding the photo links you continue to post. If you were to click on the photo in the links you will get a page that simply has the photo. When you are posting a question or answering, you may actually click on the little square icon in the top bar of this message window that looks like a tree right next to the boat anchor. It will bring up a window that you can then paste your direct link to the photo image and it will appear in your question/answer. It will save a lot of bouncing back and forth.
When I say direct link I mean http://i.minus.com/iG4a4G3k8C3nE.jpg and not http://minus.com/lG4a4G3k8C3nE . Realize that forums are persistent, meaning you can go back 4 years to the beginning of this site. You might do that to find the answer to a question you have sometime. If you did, you would hope that any questions/answers with images were persistant. I am saying this to suggest you don’t use a site that gets rid of images after a time period, because at a later date someone going back to try to find answers to their questions won’t be able to figure out what is going on if your images aren’t there.
