Introducing the STALKER! (project ended)

This is a photo screenshot of a STALKER from PS3 game (RESISTANCE: Fall Of Man).
This is the design structure for my current project>

This photo is of the second leg put together using the SES. I plan on
replacing the brackets and tubes with custom parts iv designed so that it’s like the STALKER.

The two following photos are to show the strutured design.
as i am at the programming test phase you can see that i
havent installed the custom parts yet!
You can see a reversed servo on the top to support the turret and cockpit areas!
Once i have got it walking i can move onto the second construction

adding new custom brackets
building the turret/cockpit sections

The third Phase is fabricating the actual working turrets and
installing them!
The forth Phase is designing the custom outter shells and painting it. :arrow_right:

That loo9ks pretty awesome :smiley:

those servos support everything fine? cause that thing looks like it would be quite a bit of weight

looks cool, but curious. Why don’t you just vacuum form the skins right over the SES parts? You could eliminate several intermediate steps. :wink:

Very creative! It’s amazing what can be built with the SES components.

Too bad we don’t have more code around to run them!

OK, what about an SES design for a cat or dog? the legs would move in the sagittal plane plane, not radial.

Alan KM6VV

KM6VV i think that woudl be a cool discussion in a different thread, i’d like to hear all the ideas that people have on that :slight_smile:

i’m gonna start one in a different thread, ill be looking to hearing from you

the idea for redesigning new brackets is so it then becomes even more of a custom robot. i have worked out that the new brackets will actually make the overall robot lighter plus it will expand the structure into the way i intend it to be!

fabricating a moulded shell over the brackets is the entended idea! sorry if i didnt make it clear!

there is a spring loaded system install on the underside of the chassis but you cannot see them fron the current images. ill post images of this one my bluetooth connections work!!!


Great work Innerbreed! You have shown some very creative example for the SES brackets lately. I saw your spring, smart thing since your legs are quiet large/long. Also smart to use the C brackets (seen on the last picture) on the HipH servo.

Can’t wait to get my own brackets, I’ve also been in the quad mode lately (just thinkering though…)

Keep up the good work!

BTW: What kind of Hitec servo do you use? 645?

to be honest im still using the original 475’s from an old oroject. i know what your going to say… 645’s would be better!
i havent quite got the money for an upgrade. keep you updated!
cheers zenta.

uploaded view of spring system…

Oh, i see, those will dfinatley help with weight…handling…stuff :laughing:

looks good, nice and neat, however are you worried that the springs will cause too much stress in the hip servo?

yeah it had passed my mind!
im not to worried at this stage about the resistance the spring could course on the robot. i guess i will find out once i actually get it walking.

Looks very cool! Can’t wait to see it walk!

Yup thats a nice bot you got their. Add some blue Cold cathode lights to get that erie blue look like it has in the PS3 game.

yeah that would be cool!
as well as replicating the actual body shape, color, and gait, i also have plans to make the controls the same. so the realtime robot reacts in the same way as the onscreen robot in the game.
the robot in the game uses the same form of dynamics while walking 'using rotate, trasition, and omni-directional control.

i am only touching the basics when it comes to quad gaits (thanks to ZeRoCoOl for all your help)!
so getting the robot to accomplish this type of gait will be difficult.

Do you have any plans to make moulds for the body and make the feet more triangular like the real thing. It would be difficult but well worth it if your serious about making this as close to the original thing as possible. Plus it would conceil the cold cathode lights or LEDs.

:imp: :smiling_imp: NOW THATS WHAT IM TALKING ABOUT!

i am already designing the legs as we speak, but only on paper! and yes they will be like the original picture from the game. at the moment though i am keeping all my time on getting it to walk! what you see so far is the basic prototype for this whole project!
the idea of using the cold cathode lights is cool i will be adding these!

i have made a start on creating the legs (armor).
This is the first stage of the process.
I have shaped out the femur part using
Styrofoam as it’s easy to work with, and
give’s nice clean sides.

The next stage apart from making the tibia is to
Vacuum form the shapes into plastic.
Then replicate the vacuum forming process
another three times, so i end up with 8 sections!
(four Femur’s and four Tibia’s.)
*sorry i didnt include more photos when creating
this prototype, as i got carried away with it! *
Here is the finished cut!

once i clear up the mess, ill make a start on the next sections.
(lets hope i can tidy up before my wife sees the kitchen floor!!!)

Looks like good progress.

Just one note: For working with styrofoam, I usually find that a hot wire cutter is the way to go. Cuts through most flavors of expanded foam with minimal effort, and makes far, far less of a mess than sawing and/or slicing do. A nichrome wire is heated by an electric current, and melts its way through the workpiece, leaving a clean, heat-sealed kerf, without getting bits of foam dust or beads everywhere.

You can find hot wires in many general hobby shops, or model train shops, as they are quite handy for making terrain used in wargames and train layouts. they’re also easily constructed from parts, with the nichrome wire being the most difficult to find. You can usually find this in the parts racks at the same hobby shops that sell the cutters, as it’s essentially a “spare blade”, should the original melt through due to overheating, or snap (it’s a fine wire, and it’s held in tension). I’ve used commercial off-the-shelf units - 12-volt wall-wart power supply is great, but you can find them powered by 2x D-cell batteries - on small pieces. For larger pieces - such as R/C aircraft wings - I built my own using scrap wood and steel rods for the bow, and a 3-foot-long cutting wire. Power was supplied by a car battery charger, and used a big rheostat to control the power to the wire.

They’re generally really nifty tools for working on foam. Just work in a well-ventilated area, as the melting foam will release some fumes. The fumes from some types of foam are a lot less friendly than others.

finally cut the tibia.

i did look into these tools before i approched
this project, but found that using a simple
hacksaw and sand paper worked fine!

thank you for your input tho!

Hey interbreed, nice job on the armour, but how do you vacuum mold those pieces? Im a bit confused on that subject.