the idea for redesigning new brackets is so it then becomes even more of a custom robot. i have worked out that the new brackets will actually make the overall robot lighter plus it will expand the structure into the way i intend it to be!
fabricating a moulded shell over the brackets is the entended idea! sorry if i didnt make it clear!
there is a spring loaded system install on the underside of the chassis but you cannot see them fron the current images. ill post images of this one my bluetooth connections work!!!
Great work Innerbreed! You have shown some very creative example for the SES brackets lately. I saw your spring, smart thing since your legs are quiet large/long. Also smart to use the C brackets (seen on the last picture) on the HipH servo.
Can’t wait to get my own brackets, I’ve also been in the quad mode lately (just thinkering though…)
yeah that would be cool!
as well as replicating the actual body shape, color, and gait, i also have plans to make the controls the same. so the realtime robot reacts in the same way as the onscreen robot in the game.
the robot in the game uses the same form of dynamics while walking 'using rotate, trasition, and omni-directional control.
i am only touching the basics when it comes to quad gaits (thanks to ZeRoCoOl for all your help)!
so getting the robot to accomplish this type of gait will be difficult.
Do you have any plans to make moulds for the body and make the feet more triangular like the real thing. It would be difficult but well worth it if your serious about making this as close to the original thing as possible. Plus it would conceil the cold cathode lights or LEDs.
i am already designing the legs as we speak, but only on paper! and yes they will be like the original picture from the game. at the moment though i am keeping all my time on getting it to walk! what you see so far is the basic prototype for this whole project!
the idea of using the cold cathode lights is cool i will be adding these!
i have made a start on creating the legs (armor).
This is the first stage of the process.
I have shaped out the femur part using
Styrofoam as it’s easy to work with, and
give’s nice clean sides.
The next stage apart from making the tibia is to
Vacuum form the shapes into plastic.
Then replicate the vacuum forming process
another three times, so i end up with 8 sections!
(four Femur’s and four Tibia’s.)
Just one note: For working with styrofoam, I usually find that a hot wire cutter is the way to go. Cuts through most flavors of expanded foam with minimal effort, and makes far, far less of a mess than sawing and/or slicing do. A nichrome wire is heated by an electric current, and melts its way through the workpiece, leaving a clean, heat-sealed kerf, without getting bits of foam dust or beads everywhere.
You can find hot wires in many general hobby shops, or model train shops, as they are quite handy for making terrain used in wargames and train layouts. they’re also easily constructed from parts, with the nichrome wire being the most difficult to find. You can usually find this in the parts racks at the same hobby shops that sell the cutters, as it’s essentially a “spare blade”, should the original melt through due to overheating, or snap (it’s a fine wire, and it’s held in tension). I’ve used commercial off-the-shelf units - 12-volt wall-wart power supply is great, but you can find them powered by 2x D-cell batteries - on small pieces. For larger pieces - such as R/C aircraft wings - I built my own using scrap wood and steel rods for the bow, and a 3-foot-long cutting wire. Power was supplied by a car battery charger, and used a big rheostat to control the power to the wire.
They’re generally really nifty tools for working on foam. Just work in a well-ventilated area, as the melting foam will release some fumes. The fumes from some types of foam are a lot less friendly than others.