I was contacted by the new job shop today. We basically hashed out a workable solution for the finish. The parts will be waterjet cut and deburred and the standard “mill” finish will be retained. No tumbling and no additional brushed finish will be applied. They will be made from 6061 T6 aluminum. The standard “mill” finish will be oriented along the long dimension. These should be very nice with the anodized finish! There is no time to make any changes, so any foot sensor we do will be a bolt on solution and require drilling some holes in the tibia. Not a big deal for people like us, eh?
Looks like we are back in business, Phoenix business that is! lol
“Sure, give me a phoenix kit and I’ll give you a video and some pictures of a working example.”
BS alarm! Busted!
Anyhow, instead of cranking up my BS grinder, I decided to made a quick prototype of what could be made for the bottom leg section. The tube has a moving center section that moves upward slightly when pressure is applied, making an electrical contact. The movable center section is slightly sprung downward to keep it off of the electrical contact when it isn’t on the ground. Checked with a multimeter and it works as desired even considering the crude materials used. In a real setup, stronger and better materials would be used.
Two pots of coffee and an improved leg contact sensor/foot. Made from a 5/16" dowel, hard rolled/glued paper tube (formed by rolling on the dowel wrapped with some Glad Cling Wrap), #4 copper tack from Lowes, wires from cat3 four conductor phone wire, and some fast drying contact glue. Weighs ~4 grams or less, and can support 16 oz or more of downward force. Dowel travel in the tube from full down to full contact is ~1/16". For testing purposes, it could be hot glued to the side of the hex leg and walked on, then fairly easily removed later. I twisted the wire around the copper tack, but a drop of solder would ensure a good permanent electrical connection. Wire connected to the tack acts like a spring (along with gravity) to keep the dowel down when not touching the ground. The copper tack makes a good electrical connection with the overhead wire. Very easy and quick to make (probably less than hour for six).
Nothing in the tube besides the dowel. The blue/white wire acts like a small hold down spring keeping the dowel pushed down even when turned up side down. The dowel slides freely in the tube and would fall out if not held in place by the blue/white wire. If more downward force is desired on the dowel, a piece of rubberband can be placed over the top of the dowel and under the tack head to act as a hold down (see the top of the first version to see the dowel being held down by a piece of dark rubberband run across the top).
Well I received the parts for the Phoenix project today, two and a half weeks late. I now have to send them to an anodizer. There is just no way they will be done in time to sell them this year. They will be available in January though. Sorry, I gave it my best shot…
Well, I know there will be a bunch of disappointed folks but not too worry, you gave it your best shot with 100% plus. You get A+A+A+A+A+ and a bunch of gold anodized stars for the ol’ college try.
So, it will just make them that much more desirable when they finally come into stock.
heh, I can ask all I want but by the time I explain what a “servo” is, where to buy them, how to push the add to cart and update quantity buttons, and how to place the order online I might just as well have done it myself and handed them the box to wrap for me.