Assembly looks pretty simple except for figuring out how to arrange the servo wires so that they are both functional and aesthetically pleasing.
You can also tell from the photos in the guide how the red color is probably a deeper red than is apparent in the first photos. To be honest, I’d be happy with an orangish red or a deeper red.
Kudos to the Lynxmotion staff for getting this info up so quickly and to Zenta for his generosity!
Yes, the red and blue are both a bit deeper than some of the pictures show. The red isn’t orangey, really, but it’s almost impossible to get on-screen colors to match reality.
The best way I can think of to convey the exact colors would be to try to match the Phoenix blue and red with a specific Crayola crayon color!
Choosing color is very hard, but I think I go for the red one!
Yeah! I noticed the credit, thanks Jim!
About the powerpod vs. PEP part, actually it’s not the PIN configuration that is the problem. Because it’s possible to define the PIN setup in Powerpod. But it’s more an offset and a coxa angle issue. I’ll have to dig into that when I have a complete Phoenix with SSC32 V2 and Atom (Pro?) board with the new powerpod on my desk…
BTW, your last picture of the Black, Blue and Red Phoenix parts showed the colors rather good. The other pictures of the red Phoenix seemed a bit orange? on my PC monitor, but the last picture proved me wrong. Did you manually set the white balance on your camera? Maybe the light was a bit hard?
It’s a bit complicated, because we have two different cameras we use. One is for low-res pictures, and one for higher-res pictures. For some reason, we have a bit of trouble with colors when using the high-res camera. Also, there is a difference between monitors - the color varies a lot just from monitor to monitor here in the office.
I might just have to break out my mega-set of Crayola crayons to get an accurate color comparison!
I did 60° on the front and rear horizontal axis positions.
As Beth said we have a high and low-res camera for different purposes. Funny the low-res camera has the ability to meter the white balance, but the hi-res camera only has some preset options. I will probably redo the product images with the low-res camera to get the better color profile.
OK, I’m guessing that your Hi-res camera is not a DSLR camera since it just has some preset option for white balance? A Low-res camera (under 2 Mega pixels?) should work very well for web use.
The variation are mainly a calibration issue (and monitor quality).
LOL And then you can easily manipulate the colors in photoshop based upon a known color reference.
I’m thinking about placing my order today, but I do have a couple questions.
First off, in the assembly guide, it shows using servos with Metal horns.
What servos are those? I saw that I can purchase the metal horns from you, but I suppose you have to go through a process of centering the servos?
Doing that is pretty straight forward I guess?
Also, from my RC Helicopter experience, I’ve always had the best luck using Hex Socket Cap screws. Is there a list of all the hardware required, so that I can order my own hardware?
EDIT
From looking through the guide again, I see that some of the hardware is indeed Hex Socket. I guess my question now is, did you decide to use the philips head screws because of clearance issues? Do you see a problem with using all hex hardware?
Yah, I keep getting tempted. They really look neat ! I personally like the Atom Pros. My impression is the next version will support the Pro (as well as the phoenix). But if not, I will try to help out with the translations (time permiting!).
This shure looks like fun!!! I need to weigh this with all of my other projects that I still want to complete. Like working on the brat and rover. I suppose could temporarily take the servos from my my other hex. Too bad I can not use the Robonova servos…
The servos used are HS-645MG’s. The aluminum servo horns are not required. They provide better structural strength though. All servos require the controlling program or the servo controller to accommodate for a servo offset. This makes the servo go to a perfect centered position when a 1500uS pulse is received. So removing the servo horn to install the aluminum one has no real consequences, as they need to be calibrated either way. We use the Phillips head tapping screws because I am not aware of an affordable equivalent that has a hex socket head.
I tried some things to improve the color quality. None of them made any difference. I’m re-shooting the product images with the good but low res Sony camera. I’m also looking into replacing the less than perfect hi-res camera.
I’ve taken the red Phoenix pictures again, using the “regular-use” camera. The color is much closer to life! Check out the image gallery here: lynxmotion.com/images/html/gphoen.htm
hi all,
being new to this stuff i was wandering what you use to control it once you have him put togather?? i just ordered one and wanting to learn all i can about making this thing work.
I think the Powerpod is readily usable for the Phoenix, although it is not specifically tailored to it. I think you would have to go into it manually and change the femur and tibia length/constant in the code that it generates. As far as the orientation of the hip vertical servos, I don’t see that as an issue, since the different orientation of these servos as compared to the H3-R shouldn’t make a difference when commanded to move up or down…
If you want a straight-forward conversion, you’d probably have to go with the Basic Atom. The Powerpod-generated code is not readily compatible with the Atom Pro (although Kurte on this board has posted a modified code to run on the Atom Pro, check the sticky!)
Jim, what is your take on this? I know you’ve stated that Laurent was going to modify the Powerpod to support the Phoenix as well, but my question is, will it support the Atom Pro as well? I think you said that the Powerpod will support the Pro sometime in the future, was wondering if it’s in the works
Yes Laurent is actively working on adding Phoenix and Atom Pro support for PowerPod. I do not know how well the existing PowerPod code will work for this bot. Of course Zentas program can be used to create sequences for the Visual Sequencer program. Kare told me he is working on changing the program to work with our assembly setup. I’m not sure what changes are necessary.
Another newbie question, but would someone be kind enough to make a full ‘shopping list’ of parts required to complete a phoenix and be able to control it via a 2.4ghz PS2 type controller?
Here’s a little hint. If you go to the AH3-R product page and click “more info” you will see what’s included in the combo kit. You will need everything listed excluding the body and legs. You will also need to get 6 ASB-04 pairs to assemble the hips. You can get brushed or black. We are recommending HS-645 servos for this. I do not know if 475 servos will be enough.
not needed - Aluminum Hexapod 3-R Body Kit - Round Full Size (Brushed) (HBKR-BRU)
not needed - 3 x 3DOF Alum. Leg Pair (Brushed) (3DOFA-BRU)
18 x HS-645MG (133 oz. in.) Standard Servo (S645MG)
Bot Board II (ABB-01)
BASIC Atom 28 (BA-02)
SSC-32 Servo Controller (SSC-32)
DB9 Serial Data Cable (DB9-02)
Sony Playstation Controller Cable (PS2C-01)
plus:
1 x PS2 Robot Controller (RC-01)
6 x (ASB-04)