Yeah, cleaning up the servo wires without leaving too much slack or having it snag on one of the joints is always a challenge… It was probably the most time consuming and difficult part of the build. I think I must’ve started over about 5-6 times (after zip tying all the servo wires) and before I was happy with the servo wire cleanup. Each “evolution” of my re-do of servo wires, got better and better, so it’s slightly an art form, more empirical
The other challenging aspect was fitting all that stuff into such a cramped space without an add-on deck. In the future, I’m still considering an add-on deck, but I really wanted to keep the weight inside the body cavity area, that way keeping the COG closes to the ground as possible without having something hang below the body (for clearance issue)
If you configure AA cells as shown in the picture, it barely clears that area where I place it. It’s not a tight fit, but a precise fit. The SSC-32 is mounted on a 0.75" F-to-F standoffs. I believe the kit comes with 1.0", which will sink the SSC-32 too far down for the batteries to fit underneath.
For the future, I am considering smaller form factor batteries, such as an equivalent LiPo, but for now, I’m not ready (financially) to switch over since I have six NiMH packs, and my LRP Pulsar 2 charger can only charge NiMH and NiCads…
The rechargeable 9V is quite nice. It’s a brand called “digimate” that I bought off of “battery monster” at an ebay-store…
Theoretically, with the AA-cell packs configured the way it is, I can fit two of those underneath the SSC-32, but the 9V option is kinda nice to keep the payload down. When I had two AA-cell packs (one for VL and one for VS), the capacity bottleneck was still on the VS line since it drew the most current. So having two identical packs didn’t really buy me anything in terms of runtimes.
If you have battery bars and loose cells, you can get pretty creative with the configuration to fit your own needs. You can either reconfigure your batteries, or my other thought initially was to get some thumb-screws (knurled knobbed screws) on the chassis and use those for quick access into the cavity of the phoenix…