Noticed that when opening one of the sketches it opened using arduino 1.0.4 so I removed all items related to arduino from my system. reinstalled the current version 105-r2. I now get a response when using the serial monitor
Good you have it working. As I said it was only an extract from older code base, to test to see if things could work with this new display. So looks like progress.
Kurt
now i can walk through the code. Thanks,
Note, I am still playing around here. There are several options for graphics. I could hang on to the stuff I have, which is currently using software SPI, which you can tell is quite slow, or there is a graphic library uTFT, that works on many graphic displays, also recently someone adapted the driver for this chip to work with hardware SPI, which works a lot quicker. Also have lots of capabilities, including Software you can purchase (try free for 30 days), that allow you to design graphics on your PC/Mac and more importantly import fonts and the like. It definitely works a lot quicker. More details up on the thread:
forum.pjrc.com/threads/23445-Tee … #post48349
Note: I uploaded an example program modified for this display shield, that shows it, but the display hangs from time to time.
I may also try a combination of both, that is modify my display driver update to attempt to use the hardware SPI, like this one did and see how well that works.
Kurt
Another quick update. I have been playing around with trying to make the ILI9341 run using fast hardware SPI output and the Touch using slow SPI library output/Input. I built a version of the ILI9341 library that uses the fast SPI mode. My DIY remote program I have done some real hacking to swap the SPI between modes. Will probably need to clean up some.
More details up on the forum: forum.pjrc.com/threads/25718-Ada … Teensy-3-1
Hi Kurt,
a very noticeable speed increase. looks real good
Kurt ,
just received my boards today. Was looking over my materials from the bill of materials and was hoping you could verify one item.
Part number 311-0.0JRCT-ND, it just looked small to me. as you can see from the picture
I will be honest and say I actually have not tried that part yet… Also not really needed. That is this is a 0 ohm resistor (i.e. short). That if you want it, to always connect, then don’t cut the trace on the Teensy. Or put in the 2x2 connectors below it and connect using shunts… Or simply use a solder short…
Mine so far just uses the shunts…
Glad you got them. I have used Bay Area circuits once and they did a nice job. It was nice and easy as you simply order directly in Diptrace. But they are a bit more expensive than Seeedstudio and OSHPARK.
Kurt
Kurt,
Board assembly is coming along. I was hoping to ask if you could post a picture of your board to I can assure that I’m doing this correct.
This is where I’m at.
Here is one picture I took, after I assembled one…
Also I think I have most of the 3d parts setup on this board, so you should be able to preview it using Diptrace. Here is an example screens hot I took
Note: on the 3d version, it shows a single pin populated, however when you build, this, this is a way to connect the reset pad on the bottom of the teensy to the board. I did this by soldering a small wire to the pad, then
pull through the striped other end through this hole. Mine ends up with the wire bent in half under the chip. Another way is to have the wire stripped all of the way back and as you place the teensy into the board, you keep pulling in the slack and then solder it in place…
Also it shows a couple of things not populated. In particular a diode and resistor… This is for a non-existent possible 4th wire going to the two AX connectors, for potential of a full duplex connection. If you are not needing any AX support, you can also leave off the others like it as well
Kurt
Kurt,
That just cleared up all the questions i had. thank you.
I received my back order items and was able to complete the board. seems to work fine just the LED’s don’t work might have put them on backwards
but it seems to work fine other than that still need to ad the reset pinGlad you have it up and going. Yep - Leds sounds like maybe reversed… Luckily they are big enough, that you can usually unsolder them, with flux… Sometimes I can save them, most the time I put new one in…
As I mentioned earlier (in this thread or maybe the main DIY XBee thread), that I was updating the my DIY XBee protocol to be simpler, which also had the side effect of allowing me to send more packets per second… I first got this working using my DIY remote that is Teensy based and likewise tested it out on a Teensy based PhantomX.
As I know that there are a few of us who have the BAP28 based versions as well as robots that run using a BAP28 or Arc32, thought I should update these as well to these changes. So I first made changes to the BAP DIY remote, which appeared to work. I then made a version of the Phoenix for Baps, which uses the new protocol. The problem I had was I no longer had any Hex robots with a BAP28 or Arc32 on it. So I put an Arc 32 onto my Phoenix but continuted to use the SSC-32. (Nornally in this case would simply use Arc32, but did not want to spend the time).
I believe they are now working OK. Probably should spend more time testing the BAP version, but may not as most of us have transisitioned from the BAP to something else.
Anyway the code was updated on github: github.com/KurtE/Phoenix_For_BAPS
Also I put the current version of my DIY remote for the BAP up on github as well, in the project: github.com/KurtE/DIY-Remote_Control
Kurt
I was just wondering Kurt. Do you have two DIY remotes, one with Teensy and one with BAP?
I’m still using the old 2x16 LCD display, what are you using on the BAP DIY remote? I hope I’ll figure it all out.
Like I said in the other forum, great work! Highly appreciated.
I hope to do some testings later today.
Yep - I have two 
And partially assembled parts for other ideas… Most of this stuff was done when Lynxmotion (Jim) was interested in selling some form of Remote, most likely in a kit form. Jim and Devon were working on another version which used a cheaper graphic display (but required many more IO pins).
But…
I have the original one still with the bap that still has the same display as you have. The left joystick was replaced to one that goes back to center and I have two extra knobs, which sort-of emulate your knobs, except mine are on the front covering up where the RC module used to be…
I then have the one that I built earlier with several different arduinos (Mega with my shield, My Atmega644p board. But now has one of my Teensy boards in it, which works great. This one uses the 4d systems 128x128 OLED display. 2 of the 4 function joysticks, 3 sliders. There is a picture of it on the first page of this thread.
Also earlier was experimenting with a 3rd remote, which was using the 4d system 3.? touch screen and at the time was playing with using two Wii nunchucks for input. It never got into any case as was figuring what I would really want. Example use touch screen only or should I continue to have real buttons and sliders and… My thoughts at that time is probably still want some real controls. Again never completed this one, but I used some of this code to start experimenting with the Adafruit 2.8" touch screen, which I have been having some fun with recently.
Also at the time was also looking into maybe trying to hack up an actual RC remote like hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor … ware_.html
Which I purchased one, to maybe see about replacing the internal circuit(s) (or reprogram them), to use XBees instead of the RC…
Also I still think it would be fun to build an extended Arbotix controller. For most of us this type of controller is sufficient, but I do wish it had a few more bells in whistles. Could maybe design my own board with Teensy and XBee mounted below, maybe speaker as well. Then on top leaves room for thumb joysticks, buttons, small display. Maybe also add some form of tilt sensor. Would be fun and probably work pretty well. But then as many of are going to higher end processors, can probably simply use some of the higher end game controller consoles…
But I am getting just a bit off topic 
Kurt
Kurt
Yep, I have it up and running on my display. Have a different version of the UTFT library than what was installed by the 1.19 Teensy installer. So I renamed that one and then it used the one in my sketchbook\libraries folder.
Kurt
P.S. - Note, I have not tried to see if this other code base can still allow you to use the touch screen code, without doing some major hacks, like I mentioned on the Teensy forum. One of the things Paul up on Teensy is going to work on soon, is some better way to handle SPI sharing.
Kurt seems to work fine. i’ll let you know if I can get the touch to work with it.
Warning: when I run this test, it will often run several iterations, but at some point it will hang with the screen all white (at least on mine). My guess is thee is hang in some of the SPI stuff looking at status or the like. I have not tried to track it down yet, but may at some point.
