DiaLFonZo - DIY Remote (Using Kurte code)

Yep have one also, nice board but has different bootloader, most use webotlib with it. Agree prefer to keep as arduino, although 644p like Arbotix works for me as well.

Kurt

The price is not so bad.
One thing, can we use the BotBoarduino… or too limitted. (Serial are very limitted…)

That looks pretty good =) vanadiumlabs.com/arbotix.html small has a xbee port, and supports arduino bootloader

and $60 is a good price =) cheaper than mega+shield

Would like to be able to put 90deg pins.
Take so much less space

mmmm the highest point on that board will be the xbee antenna… so not sure how better would a 90 degree cable would be

Which is now getting back to my current board… viewtopic.php?f=26&t=8095&start=36

Kurt

So…
Interest in me making a casing… then have your shield in…??

???

I was “Quoting” Kurte.
I am asking him if he was to jump in and i can design a Casing for his shield.

Kurte, do you have some dimensions… overall i mean and mounting holes.
Really it will be the tickness the problem… On my render i use 1" standoffs.
Do you want an open design or a close design (with side wall…)

i dont think his is a shield, it looks like a a modded arbotix

Looks like he removed the Motor driver, the motor/encoder headers, the Bioloid header, and the I2C header…

On his he added more digital pins (got them by removing headers, and driver) and a speaker.

Which is very smart =) removing things that we wont use, should cut down in cost, if we find the right people to do the pcbs

It has a connector for the Processor. (Not soldered)
So yes it’s a shield

Anyway… is that important… :stuck_out_tongue:

Well depends on your definition of shield, for me a shield is a pcb (to add some function) that you put on top of the actual board, like all these guys: shieldlist.org/ are arduino shields, so they add height to the board, the one he linked its a board, like the arduino, or the arbotix, so nothing will go on top it…

What i meant by it is not a shield was that nothing will go under or on top (besides wires) so or max point here again will be the xbee antenna

So i think 1" thickness should be fine (for the board part)

Also @kurte if we end up going with the touchscreen route, we could modify your design to add the serial port, so we will just run one cable from the touchscreen to the board.

I don’t think 1" will be fine.
There is a lot of electronics to put in here.
I would sure put 90deg on all the pins and it’s easy with Kurte board.

Playing with top plate…
1/8" but milled to 1/16" pocket.

i meant 1" just for that board… But dam you are a beast with solidworks, i spent 3h yesterday trying to make a small hole for the switches :frowning: i need to learn that damm program…

Ok… with some hardware to look.
But need to fix our Hardware setup.

wonder what can we add to the bottom so it doesnt look empty

Maybe some status LED’s

Should i go ahead and purchase the 3.2 screen?

Just sketching.
Need to lock all hardware first.

I think we are somewhere here:
1 x Kurte board
1 x xbee
2 x lynxmotion.com/p-839-aurora-9-gimbal.aspx
3 small switches (like lynxmotion.com/p-280-dpdt-mi … witch.aspx)
1 x sparkfun.com/products/10089
4 x Potentiometer: sparkfun.com/products/10001

we will wait for kurte to pitch in his ideas

Right
I would use 3D gimbal with potentiometer.
Maybe two ps3 like gimbal on bottom