The DFRobotShop Rover - Arduino Compatible Tracked Robot (Basic Kit) looks amazing and very inexpenisve.
The what’s included shows:
• Fully assembled DFRobotShop Rover PCB
• DFRobotShop Rover aluminum frame (left and right sides) and hardware
• Tamiya Twin Motor Gear Box
• Tamiya Track and Wheel Set
• 4xAA Battery holder
Is the PCB an arduino microcontroller or is it just the driver electronics, or what exactly?
Sounds like I should start with the bluetooth version and switch to XBee if I decide later I need the range. Are there any other significant differences in the kits?
Are there any example sketches that come with the kits?
Something else I’ve been wondering about: It looks like the motor driver “sheild” integrated on the chassis? is this correct?
Thanks for all the great information and the snappy repiles. I guess I have one or two more questions about the embedded motor controller:
Seems like power components are the most likely to fail in some conditions. If that happens, can it be disabled in order to use another motor sheild?
Whoa! I started this thread on September, and looks like lots of traffic since then! Good to know others are working it.
I just got my rover kit, built the motor box per the online video, wired it up and no go. I haven’t done much troublshooting yet.
I have some Arduino experience and electronics savvy, but could use some nooby advice on what to try first.
]The motor meshes with the gears nicely, but it seems to take alot to get it going when I move it manually. /:m] ]When I load the example program in the manual, the lights come on and I see a blink on the board when I execute the console commands. /:m] ]I added debug statements to be sure the switch statement logic is right./:m] ]There is no motor movement and no motor noise. /:m] ]I’m trying to figure out how to power it. I’m plugging it into a 5v arduino supply and the usb. I also read that you need to install AA batteries and connect the battery pack. Is that right? Tried, it with no luck. Switch in both positions., /:m]
Ed
I don’t know which configuration it is, but I followed this video, carefully, and as I said, the gears mesh nicely and everything looks good.
]The board lights up only if I plug it in via USB or via the power adapter plug. /:m] ]I’m able to power it up or down by toggling the switch./:m]
**It seems the external battery (4 AA) circuitry on the board is faulty. The board does not light up when I plug in the battery pack. I disconnected the batter pack and measured the voltage at the connector pins and got 5.3V. ** I toggled the switch and got nothing. I reconnected the battery and measured 5.3 volts where the jack connects to the board.
All the jumpers are as out of the box.
]I disconnected the AA batteries, /:m] ]and connected the Seedstudio solar sheild and battery /:m] ]and measured 3.93 volts at the battery terminals. /:m] ]I toggled the on/off switch and got nothing./:m]
Does the seedstudio charge the battery if the board is powered using the adapter jack?
So far, the only way to power the board is via USB or the power adapter jack.
I “ohmed out” the motor connections and all are good. I’ll upload the images if I can figure out how, but I’m confident the motor connections are sound.
Carlos, Yes, the jumper is in place next to the switch, and the LEDs are on when powered by USB.
I verified the motors work by connecting them directly briefly to the board’s 5v.
…And I’ve now spent alot of time with a voltmeter, re-read the manual and any related forum posts. I’ve experimented by powering it via USB, AC power adapter, AA battery input, and the seeedstudio board. Still no motor movement. The AA battery behavior seems suspect.
I understand the board is basically an extended Duemilanove, but I could really use a schematic and that updated Rover manual that has been promised for awhile.
I’ve been very careful to accurately detail what I’ve found, so please verify that this is the correct behavior.
Here’s the voltage regulation analysis and switch behavior:
]I connect to the USB, switch off or on, the lights do turn on, Vin is 3.4v and 5v around the board. 3v3 is 3.3v/:m] ]Disconnect the USB/:m] ]I connect to the AC power adapter w barrel connector: Switch off, lights off. Switch on, lights on. Vin is 9v and 5v around the board. 3v3 is 3.3v./:m] ]Disconnect the AC adapter connector./:m] ]**I connect the AA batteries. With the switch off I get 5v at the power terminal only. As soon as I switch on, Vin drops to 1.4v and the voltage around the board is .4V. **/:m]
SeeedStudio board:
]I connectected the seeedstudio solar board, and plugged in the battery to let it charge over night using USB:/:m] ]Battery Vin at the terminals: 3.92v, and 5v around the board when the switch is either on or off. Is there no way to switch off the power from the seedstudio board?/:m]
Also see in the post below where I’ve now uploaded the photos for the motor terminals, and I’ve re-verified continuity.
I purchased the bluetooth kit and I’m having difficulty getting the bluetooth communication working.
I know that I’m paired and linking correctly. When I invoke the Arduino IDE serial console, the “LINK” LED goes on. The only problem is that I don’t get any serial data comm in the console.
The bluetooth switches are set the way the were when it was shipped:
LED Mode ON
AT Mode OFF
The Link LED lights, but I get no serial data from the Rover, and it doesn’t respond to my commands.
I’ve been able to pair the bluetooth module to my macbook, and it shows up as Bluetooth_V3-DevB.
As I said above, when I open the serial console, the bluetooth module’s link led glows.
Here are the steps I’ve followed, but I can’t get any serial comm working:
0. Keep rover powered at all times using the battery pack
Disconnect Bluetooth
Upload sketch via USB until “done”
Test the Rover using the USB connection. Looks good.
Disconnect USB cable
Connect the bluetooth module
select the COM port associated with the Bluetooth in the Arduino IDE. In my case it’s Bluetooth_V3-DevB
Open the serial monitor and set the speed to 115200, “No Line Ending”.
The “link” LED is now lit steady green, so I’m connected.
At this point I’d expect to see some of the debug text (“initialized”) from the sketch, but I don’t get anything.
Start issuing ‘w’ and ‘s’ commands to try to get the motors to turn, and no response.
If I then remove bluetooth and reconnect USB the Rover works fine, which tells me that the program is still on the Rover and working fine.
Also, I can hit the reset button, or turn off the power and when I reconnect to USB, the program is still there and working.
I also tried to upload my sketch. When I do, the Link LED Goes on, and off a couple times and I get the following error in the IDE:
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
I was able to successfully test and control the robot with the sample program, so thank you for that help. I had to switch to PC, I couldn’t figure out how to install drivers for a Mac (what we did find about it was really complicated). Do you know anything about that?
I understand there are built in temperature and light sensors, but I’m not sure how to work with those or even what they’re capable of doing. Are there any sample programs to test those out?
This robot is part of an art project. Ultimately I want it to seek out something (based on light or temperature I guess?), avoiding obstacles as it searches. Will I need more sensors? Any suggestions would be helpful. thank you.
I was simply wondering, if I buy the Basic Rover Kit, without nor XBee or Bluetooth, the only way i will be able to interface, control or program a behavior for it is tethered with a mini-b usb cable. Right?
What i’m asking myself is, should i take the extra, with the bluetooth for an easy handson approach, without too much worry about the batteries charging and communication with a pc.
Finally, can i program the arduino by bluetooth or is it simply a control communication (such as sending queries for the sensors or commands with w a s d keys (as in the tutorial))?
We bought a Bluetooth Kit a week ago.
Great product, except a problem on delivery (no usb dongle)!
Question 1) What is the use of the LIPO battery?
Using the sample software provided in the manual:
We realised today that for the motors to move, we needed to put 4 AA batteries in the holder.
Do they simply ‘close the loop’?
Isn’t the LIPO battery precisely included in the kit to supply rechargeable electricity for the wheels?
What does it do then? What does it fuel?
What we’d like (tell us if it’s possible): A solar panel charging the lipo battery, running the wheels. (autonomy = easy charging = NO AA)
Question 2) The bluetooth
How do we wire with it?
Do we absolutely need the dongle?
Is there another software/driver needed to upload/send serial messages with the bluetooth?
Has it to do with the little switches?
We get a flashing state light!
Thank you very very much.
Great product, but definitively needs a better manual (specially the software part of it!)
Hello Mr Benson (you seem to be Rover Master here)
So i did what the manual suggested on page 8, and i’m currently charging my lipo battery.
I used the sample code, and tried it with the AA batteries and it works.
As you can see, i’ve plugged the lipo in the jst socket and the usb is charging the whole thing, and relayed the 5V to Vin.
Still charging…
How long should it take before the light passes to complete?
Also, when I play with the battery wires, the complete light flashes green momentarily (short-circuit i ask myself?)…
When I try turning my program on, the wheels dont move, i just hear a click every second and the 13 led goes on.
Is one of my pieces broken? I must suppose it has to do with the shield or the battery, not the lower part of the robot, as it works without.
It’s been nearly an hour charging, and still nothing…
Can you clarify the situation for me? Really appreciated.
I did as you suggested, removed the shield from the PCB in order to charge it, and it also works with the shield on but the jumper off. (just so you know)
But when the shield is on the pcb, fully charged, and that i put on the jumper, the light suddenly turns to red and i hear that clicking sound with led 13 flashing again and no motion at all.
Unplugged the AA battery, no difference.
What exactly does the jumper do?
I suppose it supplies pin Vin with some power from 5V (with no Ground?), but what is pin Vin?
My ideas are:
Could the jumper interfere with the pins controlling the motors (i.e. no power)?
Is the voltage too low for the two motors (each nominal at 1.5, that is 3V for the 2; batt is at 3.7)?
Should i program something for the jumper trick to work?
Maybe the discharge is too big (after that 20 sec test, it take 5 minutes to recharge fully)?
I’ll bring it to school and get a status on the voltage of the battery.
I tried as you suggested : plugging the lipo battery directly to the JST plug on the rover and it works!
So i must suppose the problem is with the solar charger or the jumper…
I tried on a different charger (we ordered two kits) and same problem. The blue lights go on, but all i get is the ticking sound and the 13 led flashing…
So the problem is with the way i try to send juice from the Solar Charger to the PCB!
Connecting Vin with 5V doesn’t do the trick.
I’ll try charging my battery first, then i’ll post images of my setup and see if you get it…
I was wondering, could the Solar Cell Small, RB-Spa-202, have a sufficient voltage output to power the rover with the motors, without any sort of battery? The barrel plug could fit in the arduino plug couldn’t it?
It outputs 4.5 V and 100 mA. Is that enough.
Motor seems to take 1.5 each, so 3V + the PCB itself…
Here is my final setup. w/ readings
After that, i don’t understand.
Can you:
a) Try my setup and post an image and video of it working?
b) GUARANTEE me that this system (the Vin and 5V jumper + charger + stuff) WORKS, that you’ve tried it with the latest parts, the same I will get should I do an exchange, I that I won’t have to go through this again? This kit is supposed to be plug and play.
I don’t mind exchanging again and again, but i must be assured professionnally that this works 100% with good parts, or else me and my colleagues will have to turn to another, more expensive, solution, where we won’t learn at all probably. Your project is great but frankly we’ve been mostly frustrated, and it’s supposed to be versatile and easy to assemble so as to move to greater goals than just getting it to move!