I’m looking into purchasing a CNC machine. Not really interested in 3D work, just a way to route up to 1/8" aluminum or 3/8" foam PVC. I want at least a 2’ x 4’ work area, 4’ x 4’ would be better. The only rub is the building I want to use it in only has a 36" wide door opening. It needs to be able to be shipped in a way we can move it into the room then assemble it.
Not looking for a traditional CNC mill, but rather an X, Y table. Is that the proper terminology?
What’s the best forum to look for more information on the machine?
Is there a forum that discusses Mach 2 (I think that’s what the software is called.)
I joined the forum yesterday and posted a couple inquiries. Will check it again later today. The forum is so large and I’m not up on the lingo, so it’s difficult to even ask the right questions.
I know I want to use vacuum to hold the *material down. I want servo motors, NOT steppers… I want a VFD spindle motor for quiet operation.
*Material will be 1/8" up to 3/8" foam PVC, ABS and Lexan. I’m thinking in order to cut aluminum I will need a separate smaller machine so I can utilize some sort of cutting lubricant. I can’t see using the same machine to do both.
It’s the fastest machine I’ve seen so far in my searching. 20ips on straights and 6.6ips on curves! Plus I like the way they put the X on the short dimension. It only makes sense. I’ve decided to go ahead and get a couple of these. These will make a lot of cool parts that I couldn’t make with the lasers. 8)
After I get them going I move on to the vacuum forming machine.
It’s 10 times the other machines capabilities. I ordered it today. I should have it in two weeks.
It’s the 25" x 25" one.
It’s got the THK rails upgrade.
3 axis Gecko Drive system using 305oz.in. servos.
3hp colombo spindle with a delta 220vac single phase driver.
Controlled with Mach3.
We will see what sort of parts this little guy can make. hehe 8)
I’m just learning about freeware g-code generators. Looking at G-simple, but it’s slow going…
I used to use a similar machine years ago. I learned by doing, and never had input from anyone knowledgeable in machining. So sure I was able to make parts, but I have no idea if I was doing it the correct way.
For example do I set the home position of the end of the tool to the top of my work piece. Then use negative values for routing, or do I set it to the table top and lift it for jogging? I’m learning G-Simple and need to know how to set it up.
If you ever upgrade to Alibre Design Expert, there is an AlibreCAM module in v10. I haven’t tinkered with it since I don’t have anything to operate with it.
You’ll be able to do some awesome stuff! I’m envious.
Lower left corner for origin will match your drawings. Use an edge finder, touch off on the horz and vert edges of the stock, subtract 1/2 dia (.1) of the edgefinder in the horz (X) direction, and add 1/2 in the vert (Y) direction.
Of course, the LL corner might not always be the most appropriate point. Sometimes the center (round stock) is more desirable. Sometimes I work from the top left corner.
I have CNC’d my Sherline mill and lathe. Check out my SherlineCNC list below, and the URLs I posted on earlier (above in this thread, I think).
Vector CAD/CAM is a good package for the design of parts.
When you’re cutting an outline from flat stock, you want 0,0 to be inset a little from the lower left corner of the material. 0,0 on the mill will correspond exactly with 0,0 in your diagram. I always make 0,0 be the lower left corner of my part, so I always inset it by 1/4" or so in each dimension when I’m setting up the mill. The exact amount is not relevant, as long as you have enough material to cover the full size of the part.
For height, I always set zero at the top of the material, and go negative to mill. Once again, if you’re cutting out parts, you only need to set it by eye. You don’t need to be accurate to 0.001", because you’re going to need to have a sacrificial piece of wood or something under the part, and you’re going to set the bit depth to be through the material entirely and into the mounting material.
My friend, who has a similar setup, uses 1/8" HDF as the sacrificial backing. He tapes the material to that using double-sided tape, and then uses the vacuum to hold the assembly to the table. On my Sherline, I do the same thing, but clamp the assembly down, since I don’t have a vacuum table.
That’s awesome! I mean it’s like looking at a blown hot rod!
