I was hoping to finish this robot in time for the Mr Basic DAGU II competition, but I doubt I will have it done in the next 24 hours. Here is what I have so far!
- Eventually it will drive until one of the whiskers hits something.
- Then it will stop and try to determine what color the object is that it hit. The color detector shines a red, blue and green light (using a tri-color LED) and measures the amount of light that bounces back.
- It uses those numbers to do software PWM and drive 3 other tri-color LEDs to try to match the color of the object it hit
- After 5-10 seconds it shuts off the LEDs and turns (based upon which whisker was activated) and goes somewhere else until it hits something
I made modules for everything so I don't have to resolder new circuit boards all the time and can build things quicker.
Color Detector- I need to remake it so it looks better and the board is smaller. The clear lump is a tri-color LED.
Mr. Basic Kit
PICAXE 40x1 - With a double row of pins soldered on each side. Why 2? I figured if I did a single row I would need to hook something else up on the same pin and wish I had 2.
5volt Regulator with Anode and Cathode Bus - have since removed the switch and added it to the red wire leading into the screw terminal.
The switch on the board was shorted and would fail when it wiggled.
I will work on it some more tomorrow and try to get it done for the competition. I really want that Catepillar kit! Not having to pay for it would be awesome ;)
UPDATE: Added current version of the code. I found myself REALLY wanting to switch to XMOS or Arduino so I could use C. Give me REAL variables and arrays PLEASE! I am also going to bed and declaring defeat against my race to the deadline. If it wasn't for school and working on a robotics project that I get graded on I would have finished this guy. I'll keep plugging away and try to complete it in a couple weeks.
Update: 11-11-09 I had planned to use 3 tri-color LEDs diffeused by a plastic dome or some sort of tissue but the Picaxe 40x1 only has 2 PWM ports. I decided to try to do software PWM (you can see the horrible start to it in the code I posted on 11-10/09). After fiddling with code I have decided to use only 2 Tri-Color LEDs so I can use hardware PWM and make my code cleaner. Eventually I would like to play with software PWM.
UPDATE 11/12/09: With the extended dealine coming to a close I rebuilt my color detector to use pots so I adjusted the values more closely to what I need. However I have everything wired up, but I have a PWM question posted as I haven't used PWM with a PICAXE before. If Iget an answer to my PWM question I may be able to finish within 30-45 minutes. I don't think the color detection and duplication will be spot on, but I think that I can get it close enough to where green = green. It may be a few shades off from the true color, but not bad considerign the color detector costs maybe 2 USD to make.
Roams around until it runs into something. Then it gets scared and tried to blend in.
- Control method: autonomous
- CPU: PICAXE 40X1
- Power source: 5 volts
- Programming language: Basic
- Sensors / input devices: Whiskers, bumper switches, LDR, switches, tri-color LEDs
- Target environment: indoors
This is a companion discussion topic for the original entry at https://community.robotshop.com/robots/show/chameleon-dagu-mr-basic-kit
Pretty sweet idea if you ask
Pretty sweet idea if you ask me, looking forward to seeing it in action =D
The whiskers are set up
The whiskers are set up using the diagram above. They don't work. I'm guessing I have something wired up wrong. I will take a look at it tomorrow and post better pics of it if I can't fix it.
The circuit is fine, must be
The circuit is fine, must be a problem elsewhere.
Looks like you’re using enamelled copper wire, have you stripped the enamel off the contact points?
Nope didn’t think I needed
Nope didn’t think I needed to. I guess a quick run with sandpaper will do?
Yep, just the patches where
Yep, just the patches where the wires need to touch each other is fine.
wow. you are gonna get bonus points from my vote for attaching two rows of connectors to the 40x1. That is classic genius through experience.
If that enameled wire is the
If that enameled wire is the same as what is used for winding transformers, motors and inductors, I think you can burn off the coating with a lighter or other tool. That might be easier than sanding small wires that you have already nicely formed into the shape you want.
It is simply 22 guage wire
It is simply 22 guage wire with the insulation removed. I though I would heat it up and see if that did it. If not I will sand it.
In that case I’d say a quick
In that case I’d say a quick test with a multimeter to confirm contact would be in order. Unless the wire is very oxidized, it ought to conduct quite well with the insulation stripped off. I wouldn’t expect fire to be of any help, but if it is oxidized, the sandpaper is a good approach.
Don’t forget to tag your
Don’t forget to tag your robot page with “Mr. Basic V2.0”, so you will be included in the competition!
So I put a multimeter on the
So I put a multimeter on the whiskers and they conduct so that isn’t the issue. I did see that when hooked up to 5 volts (via the regulator), the value jumped around pretty crazy. It went from .08 volts to 4.34 volts and every value in between. I think that is why the pin doesn’t go high when it is connected to the PICAXE. I don’t see why the value would jump around so wildly. I may try hooking it up to an ADC port or analog and see if I can get it to read a value so I can use that instead of a simple on/off.
8 hours until the deadline! Lets see if I can finish
That circuit is really
That circuit is really simple, some something weird is going on. Maybe double-check all the connections and solder joints. You could have a cold solder that is moving slightly when you try the contact. So it jumps between 0 and 5V.
I plan to do that once I get
I plan to do that once I get the code working without it. Worst case I can use a bumper switch I already have ready to go. I want to get it submitted in time for the contest. I want the kit so I can show it off in classes when I eventually finish my degree and teach, but I don’t have the $70 plus shipping to buy it
I wanna see this robot
I wanna see this robot completed, if nobody complains, I’ll let the challenge run for another 24 hrs so you have a chance of finishing it. would that help?
Not in 24 hours. I have
Not in 24 hours. I have class today for 7 hours this evening so my day is just about shot. Maybe 36 hours
I’m all for extending the
I’m all for extending the Challenge deadline a day or two so we can include Chameleon.
Hell, extend it to the end of the month and I’ll get Mr. Suspense back in the running. I’m coming home from business travel at the end of the week. ; j (I don’t seriously expect you to do this. It isn’t fair to those that worked so hard to meet the deadline.)
End of the month would rock!
End of the month would rock! I’m already stealing time away that I should be using to design the sensors for my robotics class. How many entries are there so far anyway?
I feel that pushing the deadline ahead by more than two weeks is a bit of a stretch. But the 36 hours should be OK.
That would mean you have until November 12th at 2300 hrs Danish time (GMT+1 I think)
Best of luck
I will see what I can do
I will see what I can do tomorrow but I am supposed to be working I would estimate a 20% chance it will be done. Odds are everything will work except for maybe the motors as it looks like my Mr Basic motor controller board may be hosed and I don’t have relays to build an H Bridge.