I’m trying to find the assembly guides for the T-Hex 4DOF and 3DOF legs.
Also, are legs and brackets mostly available only in black now?
Edit: OK, found the legs.
lynxmotion.com/images/html/build167.htm
No downloadable files? Can you post PDF files?
Alan KM6VV
Hi Alan: the assembly guides are up on the 3/4dof Hexapod page: lynxmotion.com/driver.aspx?Topic=assem04
4DOF: lynxmotion.com/images/html/build168.htm
3dof: lynxmotion.com/images/html/build167.htm
As for black only? My guess is yes, but only a guess
Kurt
Thanks, I finally found them! I no longer have the facility to make PDFs. Good for putting in project directories.
I’m trying to figure out what I can build with the parts from my four stripped 4DOF legs. Maybe a 3DOF hexapod.
Alan KM6VV
Yes, though we have a few random aluminum parts left.
All of my parts are brushed aluminum, not black! Why no more production of the brushed aluminum parts?
Not enough demand… everyone wanted black.
Humm, this is going to change things.
I wonder if I could buff off the black anodize? Did you say you had a few brackets left? I’ll figure out what I need to flush out another leg set. May not be that much. I know I need the 1/2" tubing and tubing connectors. They should be brushed aluminum.
One thing I’m trying to do is figure out a new hexapod (maybe a rectangular chassis this time), that uses only 475 servos (I have bunch). What would be useful is a chart or spread sheet of chassis, chassis type, servo hub c-c dimensions, servos needed, leg types, etc. This would allow one to see the trade-offs when building a 'bot.
Alan KM6VV
Alan KM6VV
I have de-anodized parts in the part (Not Lynxmotion) with Drano.
Work very good, you have to be carefull… it’s strong… The pellet one.
Thanks Eric, I can do that. Seems a shame to do it to new brackets, 'tho.
I was originally thinking of getting a wire brush for my electric drill.
Found my full Acrobat version, I can make PDFs again! Much easier to make up a directory of files and pix of a project, rather then have to look them up again and again.
Alan KM6VV
I am also one of which like aluminum brushed brackets. LOL
I’d probably scratch up mine…
I just converted my four 4DOF T-REX legs to 3DOF for my SQ3. They are now symmetrical both L-R and F-B.
We may need a tutorial for that as well, new leg configuration!
Alan KM6VV
Guys…
Drano is harsh as all H-E-Double-Hockey-Stix. It will eat the aluminum if you leave it too long or don’t get all of it off after stripping!
For a less harsh but effective paint stripper, use Easy Off Oven Cleaner in the pump bottle, Castrol SuperClean in a pump bottle, or Mean Green.
Put your parts in a glass bottle, and pour enough in to cover the parts. Remember that this is Aluminum, so check it every 30m, as the solvent will pit/etch the aluminum if left too long. Pull the parts, scrub with a ScotchBrite scrubbie (or a Dollar Store noname equivalent) and then wash with detergent and rinse VERY well with hot tapwater.
If you don’t neutralize the solvent, it’ll keep eating the aluminum.
I’ve used these products for years for stripping lead miniatures (BattleTech) of all kinds of paints (enamel, epoxy, latex, even primers) and even stripped styrene R/C bodies with it.
Just FYI…
Good points. But will paint stripper work on anodize?
Alan KM6VV
Only one way to find out…
I’d buy the Castrol Superclean if you have a car, then if it doesn’t work on the anodize, you’ve not wasted your $ as you can use it on your car.
And honestly - Drano is ~seriously~ harsh. I had a friend that used some, and you could ~feel~ the heat of the chemical reaction on the outside of the pipe. It was heavy steel drain-pipe, not copper/plastic or the lighter bathroom stuff they make removable u-traps out of.
WhiteWolf
PS: if I had any anodized aluminum scrap about, I’d do a test, but I don’t, sorry!
OK, I’ll see if I can find it.
Alan KM6VV
