Hi There, we just got a AL5D and it appears that a quarter inch philips head tapping screw cannot go through 2 dampening panels. Panels are too thick. What can I do?
Shall I file off part of the dampening panel? And as a next step, I couldn’t go through the half inch screw through the C-bracket…
The screw is too short…
Please help.
This step is actually a bit tricky - we suggest holding the inner (INSIDE) part against a flat surface such as a table, placing the bracket so the holes line up, and then placing the OUTSIDE part lined up correctly. This step requires that the INSIDE part be force threaded using the small screws. Around three threads deep. Ensure the tip lines up with the small holes which are cut into it, and that the plastic covering has been removed from both sides of bot hthe INSIDE and OUTSIDE plastic parts (should be shiny black). Once it is on the multipurpose bracket, it should not move. This little assembly serves as a spacer and nothing more. The screws are there to have the inner part rotate with the C-bracket, though either way is actually fine.
Hi Coleman,
Thanks for the help. It works with the dampening panels and I managed to force the thread through both panels.
Yet, at the 3rd step,
The silver screw which is supposed to go through both multi-purpose bracket and dampening panels are too short. Am I using the right one? It seems that all the silver colored screws are the same length which is a bit too short. Impossible to get the nuts on…
Please help…
Doesn’t sound like you have the right one - the thread should extend enough to tighten into the nylon locking ring, but not further. The nut is now black, and the screw as well. Remember not to over-tighten either - it should be loose around the axis but not along it.
Hi Coleman,
Thanks! If the screw is black, that means that I might not be using the right one.
I will check.
I skipped a panel yesterday, and it works but it seems the friction is high. I need to adjust.
Another question, a big one:
Can you help me (or at least provide some guidance) to make a master-slave setup to control the robot arm?
Many thanks!
Would you be looking for something essentially like this:
youtu.be/F-5-ymKTiMU?t=72
This is easiest if you use a microcontroller like the BotBoarduino (which can accept analog inputs) rather the SSC-32U.
The feedback arm does not need to be complex, and the quality of the potentiometers and wires have the greatest affect on the accuracy.
Yes, exactly!
So, shall I change the SSC-32U to BotBoarduino?
And do you happen to have any potentiometer to recommend?
Do I need any other parts?
Thanks!
So, I guess I perhaps need 2 boards. One (the slave) SSC-32U to control the servos and the second Botboarduino (the master) to fetch input from potentiometer and to feed to SSC-32U.
Am I correct?
Thanks!
Hi Coleman,
I have been searching and found this from your website:
Mine is SSC-32U, which does not look exactly like this, but I assume that I could copy and simply connect TX, RX and ground accordingly.
In the mean time, I should connect the output of the potentiometers to 5 or 6 sets of P0-15.
Could you please confirm?
Also, with regard to the coding, what do you recommend?
Thanks, Tony
The image you show has the old Bot Board 2 and old SSC-32, neither of which has been sold in quite some time.
BotBoarduino user guide: lynxmotion.com/images/html/build185.htm
SSC-32U user guide: lynxmotion.com/images/data/l … _guide.pdf
You do not need the SSC-32U servo controller - only the BotBoarduino would be sufficient.
