Anyone using Thing-O-Matic 3D printer in LMR?

IMAG1643.jpg

Yeah, you can LOL at this crap. This is what I got for first print "20MM cube".

Before I got the whole thing working there are so many detail I have to adjust. It has too many versions on parts and instruction is every where. However, I got it to print out SOMETHING finally.

But this is the problem I have now: It didn't print out properly. The WIRE is way to thin and extruder head slightly contact the object while printing. I know it's probably something relate to Z-height but I have tried many ways to work around and none of them works. Hoping to have anyone who know what may cause this issue.

Thanks in advance to whom may help me on this!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4IOkM2QNOY

P.S.

I am using MK6 StepStruder with 3mm filament. Firmware are updated on both boards.

First of all congratulations

First of all congratulations on your ToM. When you get it working properly it will give you lots of fun.

Your raft looks like crap. I think you have an issue on the Z axis max position. Did you level the building platform properly? And did you run the calibration script and change the value in the start code file?

I’m using the ReplicatorG 0024 and Seinforge 35 as my Gcode generator. When I first built my machine I thought that Seinforge 39 must be better than the Seinforge 35 as it had a higher version number. That was not the case, so try using ReplicatorG 0024 and Seinforge 35. When things work good you can start experimenting.

Did you calibrate the stepperdrivers http://wiki.makerbot.com/thingomatic-doc:electronics-installation

Does your timing belts have the correct tension?

Maybe this can help

I am not sur this will help, but I have a Makerbot with the Mk IV extruder and 3mm filament.

I have had good result with ABS, but not so great with HDPE.

This is how I calibrated mine with replicator v21.

First thing, check that all your axis are well oiled.

Next, select the following modules (and disable the others).

Carve, Bottom, Clip, Comb, Fill, Inset, Raft (though I don’t use it much more), Speed, Temperature

Now, concentrate on these four parameters :

Layer thickness, flow rate, feed rate, width over thickness.

The first two parameters mostly depend on the machine, that is you won’t have to change them a lot afterwards.

The last two are your main action points.

I started my calibration with these settings (ABS).

 

Carve\Layers From = 0

Carve\Layers To = 100000

Carve\Layer Thickness = 0.4 

Carve\Perimeter Width over Thickness = 1.5 

Fill\Diaphram Thickness = 0

Fill\Infill Width over Thickness = 1.5 

Fill\Infill Solidity = 1.0 (read further down)

Fill\Infill Perimeter Overlap = less than 0.25

Temperature\All Settings = for ABS, it is normally 220° but Mk IV extruder is not precise. I use 180°. Mk VI is supposedly much better.

Speed\Flow Rate = 255 (maximum)

Speed\Travel Feed Rate = 50

Speed\Feed Rate = 40 mm/s

 

Now select a full 20 mm cube. Don’t use the wall only version.

 

The idea of the calibration is to work under the worst case. Extruder speed (flow rate) is maximum (255) and you will modify the feed rate and the width over thickness to get a “perfect cube”, that is, not too much or too little plastic. Most important is the infill solidity at 100%.

 

Make a test run.

 

If you have too much plastic, increase the feed rate. If you have too little decrease it.

Adjust the layer thickness only if needed. Modify only one parameter at one time.

Work as much as you can with the feed rate at first.

 

Let me know if that helped.

 

 

 

Important

Write every change you make in a notebook (or an excel sheet) and name your profiles.

Keep in mind that different colours need slightly different settings.

I name my profiles with “plastic type-color-step number” as in “ABS-black-step3”. Use the notebook to note the values of the parameters. When a profile gives good result, make a copy and name it “plastic type-colour-OK” as in “ABS-Black-OK”.

At first, modify the layer thickness to get good contact between layers, then use the procedure from the previous post.

Don’t try to modify the layer thickness too much.

 

And …

Have a look at http://davedurant.wordpress.com/2010/12/16/profiles-for-my-stepper-extruder-at-40mmsecond/.

I might just have been lucky

I might just have been lucky but my ToM with the MK6 StepStruder worked very good right out of the box. My first prints was not all that good, but when I changed over to Seinforge 35 everything got better.
I have not changed any settings on my printer except the Z parameter of the startup file. And I’m very satisfied with the quality. http://www.thingiverse.com/Geir/things/

So my advice would still be to check the build platform level, Z height (as the raft looks like it’s way too high). Check the movement of the XY axis and tension on the belts. And maybe read through the assembly manual one more time before you start fiddling with settings. The quality of your print should be way better than this before you start fine tuning it.

Yes, I did run that script

Yes, I did run that script every time. timing belts looks fine to me but I am more concider the nozzle head and that M6 screw maybe too tight? Because I noticed if I use hand to bush the filament down by little force it comes out better.

Sweet! Thanks a lot for such

Sweet! Thanks a lot for such detail. I can’t wait to go home and try it out! Thanks again and I’ll let you know the result.

Beside, have you try 1.75 filament? MK7 cames out and I dono if its worth to upgrade it or not. Just wondering.

Yeah, I think I need to

Yeah, I think I need to modify the pressure from stepmotor. gotta try that tonite.

No I haven’t tried the

No I haven’t tried the 1.75 filament and probably never will as long as there are 3mm in stock. As far as I have seen there seems to be more problems with the thinner filament so I’m sticking with my 3mm. But you might have a look at the forum http://wiki.makerbot.com/forum/c-77688/talk-about-makerbot

By the way, I have been using 3mm ABS from this guy http://www.ebay.com/sch/3d-printer-supply/m.html?_trksid=p4340.l2562 And as far as I can tell the quality is just as good as the one from Makerbot (or even better).
I have also bought some ABS from http://www.makergear.com/ but the black 3mm I got was useless. I think it was to brittle and I couldn’t get the stepstruder to pull it.

There is another thing you might look into. That is the alignment of the metal wheel that pulls the filament into the extruder.

Like you I built mine with the automated building platform. I later desided to take the belt off and added some of that yellow heat tape on the building platform. Now I have no problems printing raftless.

When you adjust the Z axis

When you adjust the Z axis in calibration, the nozzle has to slightly touched platform or leave some space like they suggested 2mm?

I’m so envy that your stuff

I’m so envy that your stuff comes out so nice!! Good job on those thingy. Do you mind to send me your profile setting or you use standard “SF35-Thingomatic-HBP-Stepstruder”? Which one you use?

I am actually confused about

I am actually confused about ABP or HBP I should use. I tried couple settings. Yes, it seems much better but still crap, I can smash the cube by 2 fingers. However, I think it’s better than first time and I will keep trying on these settings. Thanks~

First level the platform

First level the platform manually I used a post-it note folded over. Check every corner of the platform so that it is even. Or better get yourself some feeler gauge http://www.ebay.com/itm/0-05-1mm-Thickness-Gap-Metric-Filler-Feeler-Gauge-New-/160645928659?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25673e56d3
When the platform is level run the calibration script and leave like 1mm space to the platform.

I think the only thing that

I think the only thing that differs between the ABP and HBP is that  ABP controls the motor on the conveyor belt. They are both heated build platforms so either one should work.

You will get there, don’t

You will get there, don’t worry :slight_smile:
I can send you my settings when I get home. I’m still at work.

Edit:

I just use the ‘SF-35-Thingomatic-HBP-Stepstruder’ profile like it came out of the box but I have also made a copy of that with another name and made the following changes;
Under Fill
-Extra Shells-
All set to 0
That is good for very thin detailed objects.

Thanks again for all

Thanks again for all information. I actually just purchased a ABS from that ebayer you suggested. I wanna try if darker color can make any difference than pure white ABS. Are they making any difference between colors?

Yeah, I guess you are lucky it works came out from box. I will keep working on adjust those minor settings.

I’m sorry to hear that you

I’m sorry to hear that you still have problems.
One problem that I had during my build was the red/black cable that is used for the heating element. When measuring the resistance before the final assembly I noticed that there was a break (or actually several) in the supplied cable. So I had to change it with some other cable that I had lying around. You might look in to that and see if there is a heating issue.

This is what my control panel looks like.

mk6.jpg


Try monitoring the temperature and extrude some plastic. Does it come out evenly or is the stepper slipping? With the arrows try running the build platform and Z hight around and monitor the temperature (or just wiggle the red/black cable around to see if there might be a break in it)
I still think that this is a mechanical / build issue and the normal settings should work.

If it’s mech/build issue.

If it’s mech/build issue. The problem I can think of is: There are 3 kind of tube (red,white and 2 layer) for extruder when I got the package. I used red tube, that shouldn’t be problem right?

Tempture looks fine to me but steeper slipping, not too sure. It comes out like:

------------ Is it normal? or it should comes out all the way ~~~~~~~~~ or -----------------?