So…I am working on building a Lynx6 arm on a tracked chassis with the Basic Atom Bot board and am wondering what the best way to go about installing lighting. Also, I am controlling it from a PS2 controller.
Ideally, I would like to add some sort of power switch capable of turning on lights located on the robot via the PS2 controller. The power for the lights would be separate from all robot power (just normal alkaline batteries) so all I need is some way to be able to push a button on the PS2 and have it switch on a power switch turning on a light.
Can this be done from the setup I have or would I need to find some specialized power switch?
The lights I am talking about are a few styles. Two are just off the shelf mini-mag lights that I want to use as headlights so I can see with the wireless camera mounted on the arm. (My purpose here is a useful robot to send into crawl spaces of houses to inspect plumbing and wiring.)
However, when not at work…I’d just like to have some other cool modified off the shelf lighting run from it’s own power…just turned on via the PS2 remote via a power switch…like neon ground effects (think those mini neon tubes in the auto parts section or some similar led/neon flashlight).
Any insight on how to wire a bot board to just turn on a regular flashlight which would be under it’s own power is appreciated. I mean the idea of just completing the circuit is easy enough…I just don’t know how to go about configuring a power switch that can be turned on remotely. Also, if anyone knows where or what type of power switch I’d need, that would help too.
After it’s all finished…with the lighting and ground effects…not only will it be useful, it will look cool too.
I was thinking the SSC-32 and the PicoSwitch (DE-03) might work but wanted to double check before buying…now, two more questions.
Now, I am wondering if I need a separate one for each light I want to control or can I operate two or more off one switch (i.e. wire two flashlights (max 4 AA batteries total for the two) to turn on or off from one switch). That should work since all it’s doing is completing the circuit.
If I need a separate switch, one for each lighting effect (to turn them on separately), are there any less expensive alternatives (than $20 per PicoSwitch)?
I am planning to have three lighting effects (headlights, ground effects, then maybe something else or just be able to turn on and off the power to the camera).
If you are going to use a ssc-32 controller and have control of all its functions, then you probably can use inexpensive NPN transistors to control white LEDs. The other day I noticed at the local DollarTree store (where every thing is $1) small flash lights that had three white LEDs in them. If you are a DIY type, a setup like this would cost less than $2 per 3 LED light and could be turned on/off via the ssc-32.
You might want to consider a Luxeon Star/O that is comprised of a super bright LED and focusing optics. The Luxeon Star/O can be purchased for around $9 from theledlight.com.
The Luxeon Star/O can be powered by a CC1W constant current source converter from taskled.com. The CC1W sells for aroung $15 and is around 85% efficient. It will work from around 3 volts up to 20 volts and maintains a constant current to the LED.
I have to disagree, don’t use a pico switch, me, being cheap have a better, easier solution.
First you need a 5V relay (about $2). Connect one coil wire to positive. Then you need a 2N2222A transistor (around $0.10) connect the collector to the other coil lead. Connect the emmiter to ground. Wire a 10K resistor from the base to your controller. Total cost $2.12. NOT $20.
Now a simple high or low signal will control it. No need for space eating pulsout commands.
Have fun!
PS sorry Jim for losing a sale.
Even the SSC-32 can output the simple high or low control signal.
You missed the relay coil field suppression diode to prevent frying the driver transistor when the current stops flowing in the relay and it opens. Figure $0.05 for the 1N4001 didoe.
… and he forgot the board to assemble the parts on, and the connector for the battery and load connections, and the servo lead to get connected to the ssc-32, and the shipping/gas to get all the parts from the store to his house, and lastly he forgot to factor in the $3/hr rate he charges his time out at to make a comparable superjunk switch for < $20 when he’s done.
Zoomkat if I get the intent of your post, your reply is taking the example out of context and then to an extreme degree. At the simple level, for an experienced hobbyist the knowledge and parts to do this are typically readily at hand, and there is always the do it yourself satisfaction level. For a relative newcomer to hobby robotics and general electronics, which the orriginal poster would appear to be based on the nature of his question(s), the over simplified babble of a replacement circuit for a pico switch coupled with a shot at Jim about loosing a $20 sale (of which he probably makes all of $2 to $3) just begged for a reality injection. If the person has to actually figure out what the heck he was told to do in the first place, travel to a radio shack to maybe find the parts required, figure out how to wire it up and solder it together, and then find the error (like a missing recirc. diode on the relay coil) that keeps eating transistors… $20 for a plug and play almost no brainer solution gets real cheap real fast. Even if you place no value on your time if you have to go out and source all the parts from zero you would still be real close to $20 real cost. This is a lot like the guy some months ago who was complaining about the power switch cable being a rip-off, he just didn’t have a clue about the real cost of making something real. Do it yourself is great fun and every once in a while it can be a cheaper solution than some canned product IF you happen to have everything you need sitting right at hand. Most of the time though, in my opinion, you pay for the experience… which is all fine and good and fun so long as you don’t delude yourself into thinking you are saving a buck in some way.
I think insinuating a “relative newcomer to hobby robotics and general electronics” can only handle a “plug and play almost no brainer solution” is a little bit off base. People learn by doing simple projects like the one described. As the person said he wanted to be able to turn on/off three different lighting effects, $60 to do the job is a little bit expensive in my mind. A little learning DIY could save most of that cost.
First of all, thanks to everyone for the comments and discussion.
Being a newcomer to building robotics myself, I am learning, and I appreciate the time taken to offer insight to my question.
From this discussion, I understand what a pico switch can do and how to make my own from the different parts which better enables me to plan out exactly how I will go about setting up three different lighting effects (independent of each other - so yes, I’d turn them on or off separately.) I now feel I have a better grasp on the whole idea from listening (reading) your responses. Just goes to show that a little research goes a long way…as Einstein once said…“If we knew what we were doing, it would not be called research.”
Just so you know, although I am new to all this, I do have both motivation and interest to learn so the more knowledge shared, the better. I’m working on my PhD right now in Environmental Science and not too long ago had the chance to work aboard a ship on the Pacific for 18 days with Jason 2, the underwater robotic submersible out of Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution. (Jason2 is a tethered ROV with 2 robotic arms and a drill sled for coring samples from the bottom of the ocean 1.5 miles deep.) It was that experience which made me want to get into learning and building my own terrestrial rover and robotic arm…then later after learning the basics, maybe I’ll try to build an small ROV for ocean research. Would Lynxmotion ever offer an ROV kit for water use? There’s a college competition every year with the Office of Naval Research to build a better ROV…and I am sure many would be interested.
Anyways, I figured with my first robot build, I’d attempt something simple…with lighting effects. Once I know how to do that, then later I can progress to more sensors and things that may actually be more useful for an exploratory or scientific robot.
So thanks for all the input. And for those wondering…I decided to go with two pico switches right now…then maybe attempt to make a third “superjunk” to be able to compare results.
