42mm High torque planetary gear motor with encoder - 24V 165RPM

Hi

Im building a 6 wheel robotic vehicle and want to use these high torque motors… 42mm High torque planetary gear motor with encoder - 24V 165RPM - RobotShop

They have an encoder … but I don’t really need an encoder…(not actually sure how to use) can they be run without hooking that up? I plan to use with a sabretooth dual motor controller…

Also… if I have 6 of these… what is my best option battery wise for powering?

I made a 12V version …6 x DC motors without encoders which worked well… but wanting to significantly upgrade the power of the vehicle…

Hello @Mjth,

They have an encoder … but I don’t really need an encoder…(not actually sure how to use) can they be run without hooking that up?

Yes, you can use the motors without connecting the encoder.

if I have 6 of these… what is my best option battery wise for powering?

The motor nominal voltage is 24V, so you can use one or more lead acid, NiMh or LiPo battery packs.

The motor’s Rated Current is ~7 A and the Stall current is 24.5 A. For 6x motors you would have around 42A rated and 147A stall (worst-case scenario). You should take these values into account to calculate the capacity and discharge rate, if you are not familiar with these concepts please check this tutorial:

I hope this helps! Let me know if you need further assistance

thankyou! v useful and helpful…

Would you mind checking my thoughts here:

Planning on using this controller:

So if 3 motors for each channel would be OK …
Sabertooth: 60A continuous, 120A peak per channel

So 42A rated / 2 = 21A
and 147A / 2 = 73.5A

Battery choice…
Say ** 2 x 11.1V 5000MAH 3S 30C**
147A/30c = 4.9ah

Am I on the right track there?

Cheers

@Mjth Interesting robot! We hope you might consider posting details under the Robots section here.

The Sabertooth 2x60A is a great choice!

That battery should work, however, you should take into account how much time you want to use the robot (without having to recharge it) to calculate the needed capacity.

Without much load, that battery would last around 7min
5Ah/(6*7A) = 0,11 hours ~7min

I suggest looking for a higher capacity battery so you can use your robot (without having to re-charge it) for a longer period of time.

Also, you can check the Battery Pack Chargers section to find a suitable charger.

gosh, it needs a bigger battery than I anticipated!

Am going with a Turnigy High Capacity 20000mAh 6S 12C Lipo Pack

This should give 25 mins of continuous run time which is OK, in reality the robot will never be under continuous running …so session time will be likely 1 hour which is fine.

1 Like

Hi there…

also another few queries:

How much do I need to consider what wire I use to hook up this system? Do i need to go with silicon wire high gauge…?

See attached sketch of the main power flow.

Build MarkIII.pdf (228.3 KB)

I noticed the current POWER MANGEMENT UNIT i have is only rated to 90A. Although the stall current on these motors is 147A.

My thoughts are… (I may be completely wrong): I am comfortable that this will not reach its stall current, as it is massively over powered, and has a torque rating 2 X in excess of what it needs. 60kg/cm (i did the drive motor sizing tool exercise and came up with 26kg/cm)

So in theory if it were to reach 90A thats 45A per channel so 45A / 3 motors = 15A per motor

15A is 61% of 24.5 rated stall current. Which would be 36kg/cm of the 60kg/cm…

So still way over the required torque for this beast.

Is my thinking/planning /design right here?

thanks Marcus

Hello!

How much do I need to consider what wire I use to hook up this system?

You should use a wire that can withstand the current drawn.

Is my thinking/planning /design right here?

It is always best to prepare for the worst-case scenario. However, you could fuse the motor leads to protect everything in case they stall, but do not fuse the power leads, here’s the information provided by the manufacturer regarding the use of fuses:

We prefer that you fuse the motors rather than the battery leads, or if for safety reasons you need to fuse the battery that you do it at a much higher current than the motors. The reason is this:

Because Sabertooth is a regenerative driver, it relies on having a battery to put regenerated energy back into when you command a stop (and at other times). If you draw enough power to blow a battery fuse, all of a sudden the Sabertooth has nowhere to put the energy. It will see the fault, though, and try to stop the motor. It doesn’t, however, have anywhere to put the energy (the mechanical energy of the vehicle and the electrical energy carried in the windings and the caps). So blowing a battery fuse will sometimes kill the driver – which we would replace under warranty, but it’s still annoying for all parties.

The better way to do it is to fuse the motor leads. If a motor fuse blows, the motor will freewheel, the Sabertooth will sit there contentedly, and the only thing you will have to replace is the fuse.

Regards

thankyou for this @geraldinebc15

When it refers to fusing the motor leads, would that be the leads that come directly out of the sabertooth? e.g. 45 Amp inline fuse?

Or are you better to fuse the individual motor leads e.g. 15amp each?

thanks

Hello, sorry for the late reply

Both options should work but I think it would be best to use the 45A fuse. If you were to use a 15A fuse on each motor in case one motor stalls and the others don’t you would have to replace that fuse even if there really wasn’t a concern (because in that case that channel won’t necessarily reach 45A between all 3 motors).