Well here is the first of what I have so far. I’ve been a bit strapped for time but I managed to get the molds done for the Servo Case Mount and do up a quick Long-C Bracket.
The bracket will get lightening holes in the arms and mounting patterns in the end.
The case brackets are just like the Lynxmotion ones but for about twice the size. Same principle too. They attach with either double sided mounting tape or you can CA (glue) them on. There is a nut molded to the inside of the bracket to thread your mounting bolt into.
LOL, just kidding. Thats what you get when you use the wrong dye in your resins. I used the liquid dye, forgetting that it was for my finishing resins. I was supposed to use the powder dye.
Here are some more pics of the mounts on HS-805’s with some different bracket setups. They are next to a standard servo and SES setup for size comparison.
Is it possible for me to get the hitech 805 Servo Brackets and Mounts.
Currently I have to manually saw it with my two hands.
Don:t have the money to buy the machine to saw it.
(I spent most of my money on the sensors.)
I want to modified it ( changing some gears so that it can do
1200 oz/ inch
or
80 kg/cm.
at 7.2V
max.
1600 oz/inch
or
120kg/cm
I am trying to build a robot with 1 meter in height.
I am almost done with the robot, but the bracket is poorly done by me.
I was wondering if you can make some hitech 805 Servo Brackets and Mounts. If yes… how much will it cost.
A picture will give me a better idea of what will work for you. I’m molding a second design that is a direct replacement for the bottom plate on the servo case. Jus tlike the HSR-5995TG servo bottoms.
I could make a bunch more, I’m just waiting for a shipment of resins to come in. I’ll have to talk to Jim first. I’ll get back to you.
I can’t say much about the money or time issues, but space is overrated - I’ve got a 10-inch drill press on my dining room table.
As a friend of mine recently observed: “The only reason why this isn’t explicitly forbidden in your lease is because nobody ever figured that they might need to address it.”
Well plastic parts can be made in a variety of ways. I do alot of smaller parts by making balsa or fiberglass plugs that are finished to the desired shape then mold them in a rubberized or fiberglass mold. Then castings can be reproduced with any 2 part epoxy or resin material you want to use. Once I make 6 or 10 replicas, I cast another mold with the 10 identical pieces in it. Now I have a mold to cast 10 parts at a time. Takes about 5 to 10 minutes to cast parts. And anywhere from 2 to 30 hours to make the plug and mold, depending on the detail of the part.
Then second method I use for more detailed parts or pieces with negative edges or faces, is low pressure injection molding. I made my own low pressure injection molder for making strator blades and motor mounts for my Ducted Fans. The process is pretty basic but the machine and method are a trade secret.
Price varies considerably depending on the casting method, resins used, and detail of the part. Even if a part only costs $2.00 in resins, it may have taken the creator 10 to 20 hours to hand make the plug to mold in the first place. So that $2.00 part might cost $20 but the creator put alot of time and effort into making the original. Our 1/9 Scale A-10 Fuselage is a fiberglass/Carbon Fiber shell about 7 feet long. Although it only costs about $70 in materials and could retail for $400, it takes about 2 hours to lay out the resins and fabrics and another 3 hours to fit the sections together and fiberglass the seams. Not to mention the 2 months of 160 hours of labor it took to perfect a perfectly straight and accurately detailed plug to create the master mold for reproducing it.
So with molding and casting, you have to account for the time and labor spent on creating the master mold or the original. The smaller and simpler the part, the less labor it took and the cheaper it will be.
There are a variety of other methods for molding plastics such as injection molding, blow molding and casting and the machines can vary from small home based equipment to large expensive industrial grade equipment.
I used the liquid dye, forgetting that it was for my finishing resins. I was supposed to use the powder dye. 
