Ok
Start with what I mentioned above.
don’t have 90º bends, you
don’t have 90º bends, you have some nice bends, but remove all the 90º ones,
and eliminate the jumpers, i’d rather spend 4 hours editing the layout, than having jumpers…
Got it.
Got it.
Not checking the wiring, -the board could still use some work.
Some of the lines could be straightened out a bit. I agree with the effort to eliminate 90 deg bends but feel that T-connections still would be ok at 90 deg.
And to be frank, with this small board and only some serial signals going on, you can probably route it anyway you want.
The whole board could probably be built more compact saving you some money or giving you more units.
Things that I would change is;
1) Turn the power LED 180deg and move the 470 resistor and align with the 1k
2) Rotate the power switch 90 deg for a cleaner routing
3) Reconnect the 10k resister (like rotate it 180deg) and move it down to align it with the negative input pole for a straight line
Thanks. I’ll do it.
Thanks. I’ll do it. But I really can’t move the part closer to the ZIF socket because the socket is really big and fat.
Nope
Your reset (switch, not pushbutton?) will not work. You have + going to reset pin no matter what and it is bypassing the pull-up resistor and there is no ground to pull it down. There are many places, when you change to different sized chips, that you have power going into outputs, serial pins connected to ADC’s etc. etc. etc. The 22k resistor (part of the download circuit) is misplaced between your 2 sync inputs (headphone jack and 3-pin). There is no current limit resistor on the LED.
Getting closer though.
I still don’t understand the jumpers, though. Why do you have any at all? I would rather spend all day redesigning a board rather than have jumpers. Also, I would make this MUCH smaller. You could fit all this on a board 1/4 the size and save a lot of money during fabrication.
There are somethings I will
There are somethings I will look too in there. The thing about a current limiting resistor LED is not really needed. The LED doesn’t fry under the current. I wasn’t really going to put a push button for the reset. I thought you could just turn the board on and off for the reset. The resistor is there to keep the reset pin high for programming. Although if you guys do want a reset push button I could put one in.
The switch is SPDT so there is no + connected to the resistor. It’s either full 6V or the reset pull up. I’ve tested the board with the 20 pin picaxe and the 8 pin picaxe. power going into the outputs and ADC doesn’t affect the programming at all. I don’t see a problem with the 22k resistor.
There are somethings I will
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There are somethings I will
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There are somethings I will
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There are somethings I will
. Sorry for the multi post. 
Sorry, I was mistaken
Everything looks great. Now all that is left is to get this guy off to the PCB maker and start selling them.
Hold on. I made it smaller.
Hold on. I made it smaller. 
I just ordered some PCBs
I just ordered some of my own designed PCBs from seeedstudio. I was able to shrink mine down to less than 5cm x 5cm, so i ordered 10 for $20. You could probably get the 10 for $40 as long as it is smaller than 10cm x 10cm which it probably is. http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/open-source-service-prototyping-service-c-64_12.html
This thing looks pretty
This thing looks pretty cool. I applaud your efforts, and I love that you are building something with tons of input from LMR.
If this board will only be used for programming, I probably wouldn’t buy it myself. Too much of a pain for me to remove my PICAXE from a project board and drop it in here everytime it need to be programmed.
On the other hand, a project board that works with the full range of PICAXE chips… that I’d buy in a heartbeat.
Well if you put the PICAXE
Well if you put the PICAXE in a DIP socket and make it in a nice position on your project, it won’t be much of a pain.
Thanks for the website. I’ll
Thanks for the website. I’ll look into it.
True, and I don’t mean to
True, and I don’t mean to take away from your efforts. I’m sure many people are OK with removing their Picaxe for programming.
However, since a Picaxe-28 project board costs about $20, and I can program right on it, I wouldn’t go for this board.
A universal Picaxe project board would rock, and you are maybe 80% there. ; j
D:
D:
Well actually, people do
Well actually, people do make projects were the PICAXE is not on the project board and sometimes if you put the PICAXE on the breadboard. So this would be used in that case.