Nick R - very close, when I purchased my motors they where from the 14.4V drill (same exact type as you see there) and the price was the same as you see on the link you provided. I ran these motors at 24volts without a problem.
The motors and gear boxes where striped out. Gearbox modified for mounting. Champion battlebot Dr Inferno Jr. infernolab.com/projectfiles/drijr.html
once used this drill setup - see specs paragraph.
14.4v looks like this inside - teamrollingthunder.com/Drill … 14_4v.html
Caution - you will need a heavy duty H-bridge is you wanna run these. I estimate 30 amps per motor and thus used 2 OSMC’s for this. This setup running 6 motors at 24volts was able to stay on my wife’s superfast treadmill at 12mph - thus a hole in the wall.
edit - let me say 40-80 amps at stall (data ambiguous from several sites)
Mounting was a pain in the rearend. I created rough custom mounts. They now make custom mounts. Actually the worst part was the mounting of the wheel to the drill head which required a reverse thread screw. I needed a longer screw so that I could install lock washers otherwise the start torque would just spin the 4.1 inch hobby car wheels off. The torque was enough to round out the hex socket of the typical hobby 2.2 inch rim.
Alot of work for 6 motors. With that said I would definitely do it again for that price (less than 100 for 6 motors) and the lessons learned.
As to the ability of the new Lynxmotion track to withstand the power of this type drivetrain - I have reservations. This is not empirical in any sense of the word but I think the tracks themselves would fair fine as long as everything was properly aligned.
The sprockets - maybe paired but I dont think one sprocket could withstand the repeated torqu of 24v drill motor. Additionally, collisions at the speeds these motors run in combination with the weight of platform required to run them (i.e. 20 lbs) spells a whole lot of force and hence, a whole lot of trouble for a lateral load on the sprocket’s teeth. With that said it may depend on the sprokets material. In short, I dont know and am not willing to test just yet. Maybe Jim would be willing to do destructive testing?
I hope to buy a darn camera soon so that I can show you clammering folks some of the messes I’ve made over the last year or 2. As to the wall - when you been married for as long as I have the wall better get fixed fast and thus you will not ever see a picture of that. That is unless it happens again LOL
maybe you could offer metal gears/sprockets to deal with High load/torque applications like his. just a thought. my 2cents. whatever you want to call it.
Hi Jim,
Very sorry about that. Yes, we did in fact package some Bot Boards with, um… er, well… Dual H-Bridges. Yup, we did it. Repalcement is already in progress. Sorry again.
The sprockets are made from ABS. That’s really tuff stuff. I need to clarify that they are designed to be used as a pair. Also I never even thought about 20 amp motors when these were designed. If it doesn’t work, it’s not my fault.
Thanks for the link, Chris!
Now I won’t have to go fumbling about myself, looking for one.
40-80 Amps, eh?
Well, high-end power MOSFETs should be able to handle that with a cooling fan.
You mentioned that “they” have custom mountings…
Could you point me in the right direcition of “them”?
Oh, and do you remember the size of your motors’ output shafts?
Jim, I’m pretty confident in the strength of ABS.
And… I don’t mind being ruthless when it comes to pushing safety factors.
Since those sprockets look quite a bit smaller than your wheels, Chris, I shouldn’t get half as much speed as you are out of it, which is usually the biggest problems when dealing with tracks/chains.
As long as I program it to start off real slow, I shouldn’t boil the tracks, too much.
When do I send the Dual H back in? Or unless… What is the biggest motor the Dual H would be able to handle? Could it handle a drill motor? I’m thinking it can’t, since the drill motors pull more than 40A (as stated above) and the Dual H can only handle 2A.
No, not exactly. What you have shown takes a PWM signal of one type (RC servo standard) and converts it to a proportional PWM duty cycle on its output. This output connects to the H-bridge I was refering to. The MOB could be replaced by any suitable microcontroller capable of outputting PWM signals (i.e. the Servopod offered by Lynxmotion and designed by New Micros)
Nick - sorry took so long to get back to you - I had to search internet history folder (way too much surfing is what I discovered)
Seeing the cost of those mounts (which is pretty cheap, admittedly) and comparing them to the complexity of the cuts makes me want to try my own hand at mounting these buggers.
I’ve thought for quite a while that dense woods would make a nice mounting block, and this will be a great chance to find out.
The xylem and phloem (a tree’s veins) provide a lot of air-spaces, which should serve well to accept shock.
The only real problem with wood is that it’s very easy to cut, but that’s not a problem for two reasons:
One, this won’t be a battlebot.
Two, if a blade comes that close to a motor, anyhow, it’ll already have cut through everything above it (the speed controller, the batteries, the control board, my biped, etc.).
The rear is very easy to do, since that’s only a big hole, and I have a big collection of large drill bits (my biggest is wider than my fist ).
The front, an oblong-like hole will be a bit harder to do.
A router and a steady hand should work, though.
).