are my connections correct?
i read the manual...
im having doubts though...
sorry for the annoying question :)
are my connections correct?
Question and comments
Questions:
- What are the values of the batteries supplying V1 and V2? (V1 should be 4.5 to 5 volts)?
Comments
- You have the V2 battery connected to GND at the Reset switch GND connection, which is fine. You could pick any other GND point.
- You don’t NEED to use separate batteries for V1 and V2. V1 is for powering the chips and for logic circuits. V2 is for driving outputs (motors, servos, etc.) If all you are trying to do is light an LED, you can put a jumper (which should have come with your PICAXE project board) across the positive (+) connections for V1 and V2. Then just connect your V1 battery to the V and G connections, which are shown in the picture above where you have the batteries currently connected. If you bought the PICAXE board with a kit, it should have a battery connector attached to those wires already. Make sure you DON’T connect a 9 V battery to this connector, or you will damage your board.
- The LED appears to be wired correctly; it should work fine. You have the Darllington driver chip inserted on the PICAXE project board, which will supply way more current than you need to light an LED. Depending on what else you want to do for this project, that may be overkill. You have the option of removing this chip, and inserting your 330 Ohm resistor directly in its place across the Digital 1 ouput. Then you would not need your resistor between the LED and GND.
- The switch connected to Input 2 is is currently connecting the input pin through the switch to GND. This won’t work. The PICAXE board has a 10k “pull down” resistor from each input pin to GND, so it will already be at a logical low. You need to wire your input switch between Input 2 and logical high (V1).
don’t the darlingtons pull to ground?
It’s been a while since the last time I needed or used a darlington. As I remember they click to ground when sent a high signal. You would need to wire the -led to the darlington and +led to +. I also think you should have the 330r resistor on the + leg of the led - it shouldn’t make any difference but this is sorta the standard. As said above, don’t wire to the jumper pins instead wire power to v1 (the conections next to the holes in the board and use the jumper to connect v1 and v2.
thanks for the
thanks for the reply…
im sorry i forgot to tell im not using the darlington chip…
im using the picaxe28x1 starter kit
i managed to do the "start here" robot because all the connections are layed out into a noob proof way…not in a schematic way…
im using two motors,SRF05
i plan on adding a LED and edge detection using the snap switch…
are all the 3 pin snap switch have the same connection? 3rd pin is left alone?
where is the ground and +v here?
this is my revised connections
im using 2 motors,1 servo and 1 SRF05 so i would like to use a second power supply…
value of v1 is 4.5
value of v2 is 5v
closer…
*** Re. your revised edition***
Get rid of that double power thing… Just use the main v1 input (the one with holes above the solder terminals). More importantly, DO NOT wire your switch that way! Take a look, you have ground connected to + when the switch gets pushed! --One terminal to + one terminal to the input pin. Led looks good.
** Which is correct?**
Which is correct?
About the Two Power Thing... i really want to use it because motors too slow...and easily drains battery if i only use 1 Power supply...
Thank you for staying with me...
why does the manual say this?
Really men..Huge thanks
That is a ‘logic’ or digital
That is a ‘logic’ or digital switch. If the switch is off then then pin is pulled low by the 10k resistor, giving logic 0. The 1k resistor limits the current draw when the switch is on. When the switch is on you get a logic 1.
Regards
PeteH
**so which one is correct? **
so which one is correct? in the picture above
Your switch
It looks like your switch has three contacts. Most likely, one terminal will be Common. It may be marked with a “C”. The other two are probably marked “NO” for “Normally Open” and “NC” for Normally closed. You connect one wire to the Common pin. When the button is not pressed, the “NC” terminal will be connected to Common, and the “NO” terminal will not be connected to anything. When you press the button, the “NO” terminal gets connected to the Common, and the “NC” terminal is disconnect.
If you have a multimeter you can easily confirm how the switch works. If you don’t you can use a battery, an LED and a resistor to make yourself a simple connectivity checker.
In the diagram from the manual above, the switch is in an open condition, and the input is pulled to a logical low through the 10k resistor and the 1k resistor. The 10k resistor ensures that the input doesn’t “float” high when nothing is connected.
When the button is pressed, the 5V power will connect to the point between the two resistors. The input will see a logical high. The 1k resistor adds some protection to the input. The 10k resistor limits the current to GND.
so the picture above the way
so the picture above the way i wired it is ok?no need for resistors?im lookin at Frits Little 8…how he connected the bumper switch…on my bumper switch i dont see any C or NC…thank you for your time men
The way you wired it in the
The way you wired it in the picture should be fine. You don’t need the 1k resistor, and the 10k is already included on digital inputs if you are using the PICAXE project board.
The only think I don’t know is how your switch works. Do you have some way of confirming which pins on the switch are which? Is it a 3 terminal switch like the one shown in the picture? If it only has two terminals, then it doesn’t matter which switch terminal is connected to which wire. It’ll work in either direction.
Your switch may be normally open or normally closed, as I described in an earlier post. If it is normally open, the input will go high when the button is pressed. If it is normally closed, it will go low when the button is pressed. You can handle either type of switch in your software. You just need to know what condition you are looking for.
my switch has 3 pins… i
my switch has 3 pins… i think all snap switch 3 pin has all the same connections? thank you men…you really helped me alot…tomorrow ill be back and ill ask you again. 
about the 2 power supply…
Both of these are
Both of these are correct
OK?
Succcess!!! this morning i
Succcess!!! this morning i tried wiring the switch to pin 1
main:
pause 100
if pin1=1 then high 0
pause 100
else low 0
pause 100
end if
goto main
it works when i pressed the switch the LED turns on…
THANK YOU ignoblegnome,ChrisTheCarpente,PeteHand maneuver…
now i have to figure out how to wire 2 power supply…
should i post it in this forum or another topic?
Never say sorry for something like this
THere are no stupid Questions, only stupid answers. and now for a stupid answer:
what year is that…lol
what year is that…lol
Congratulations…
You have just taken your first steps into a larger world.
Since you raised the issue of the dual power connections on this post originally, we might as well solve it here. No need to post something new.
What I do for my dual power supply is wire up to the pins as you have shown in your diagram. The GND pin at the outer edge of the project board is connected to both batteries negative (-) connection. The middle pin is V1, which should be 4.5 to 5V. The inner pin is V2, which can be more than 5V.
I have a picture of my set up, and I will update this reply in a few minutes with the image.
Be aware that if you are going to run an servos, most of them have a maximum voltage of 6V.