Thanks Jim,
I put in an order this morning to fabricate 5 boards, so we will see how it goes! 
Only change from the previous posting, is I thought the Transistor was a little too close to speaker so moved it.
Kurt
Have you posted the schematic somewhere? Just curious. Or maybe a block diagram so that the functionality could be quickly grasped.
I do like your ārenderingsā.
Good luck with the board!
Alan KM6VV
Thanks Alan,
Yes and no. That is the zip files I have posted contain all of the documents. But I have not put up the schematic as an easy to see by itself file (until now).
Thanks, I like the 3D rendering of Diptrace. It has taken me awhile to figure out where to be able import 3d components, but have found a lot of them now.
Thanks, should be fun.
Kurt
My boards arrived today
Now I have a lot of soldering to do! So many projects only so much time 
ā¦
Kurt
Nice!
The main chip should be easy to solder thoughā¦ 
Yep, - Thought about designing one with all through holes, but I donāt have that much of a problem soldering some of the SMT devices like 0805 resistorsā¦ So I went that wayā¦ Also if later if a group of them are made they can automate most of itā¦
Kurt
Nice looking board Kurte
I have now assembled one of them 
I found the MUX chip a real pain in theā¦ to solder in. I probably fried it. I would be really surprised if it completely still works, but will test it out.
I have however so far verified that I can use the AVRISP to burn a bootloader and I can download programs using the AVRISP. I used the default program Blink and my LED blinks.
Other things I would change if I do a Ver 002 include: moving the jumper JRST as to make it easier to plug in AVRISP. Note: The plug is currently such that the ribbon cable points in toward the Atmega chipā¦ Not sure if that is good or badā¦
Also would probably make sure there are not vias or the like under the Crystal. I used tape under it to insulate it from the metal case. Could also simple order a crystal insulator.
Will continue to do some more testing for I build 2nd one.
Kurt
Ahoy! There be parts on the board!
Looks pretty good.
Often, crystal circuits are to be in a āguard bandā, I donāt know if that applies here. This is a ground trace that surrounds the xtal and its caps. Or at least a ākeep outā area.
Alan KM6VV
Ah, that MUX didnāt look easy to solder by hand.
Always exciting when powering a new board for the first time, let us know if everything works.
Yep, not a lot of fun to solder those suckersā¦ I have done an update of the board on how I should have done it, or if I decide to do a V2ā¦
That is with a different version of the same part which just barely fitsā¦ Also move stuff around the Crystalā¦
So far most of the digital pins work. I need to make up my own version of the Arbotix type directory which does not dedicate Serial1 to do AX12 type stuffā¦ Sound works, Can down load programs using the Bootloaderā¦ Next to see what works of the Analog Mux
Update: Some of the Mux may work at least I am getting some non zero, non 1023 values, but it looks like the input going to A7 is failing all 0ās coming from analogReadā¦ Will investigate more, but I may delay for some other projectsā¦
Kurt
I have done a little more playing around with the first of these boards I assembled. I am pretty sure I screwed up pin 3 of the MUX and it aināt coming back .
I will do some more testing of this board. Probably can not use it yet as my DIY remote replacement, trying to decide if I will attempt board 2 or fabricate version .002 which gives me a fighting chance. If I do, I am trying to decide on a few other changes on if I should do or not.
Things like: Remove JTAG connector. It is nice to have to debug stuff, but all of the IO pins minus reset are right next to there, so would not be hard to setup a wiring harness.
Also having some second thoughts about having the Automatic reset over XBee option I put in. May work in certain cases, like if my XBEE is always in Serial replacement mode and paired with the PC one. There are probably not going to be my normal configuration. I am wondering if instead I should have a pushbutton connected up to the reset line of the XBee, such that I can reset it and maybe have itās default configuration set that way, that when after reset the actual program running on it is free to change it to whatever configuration that is appropriate for it, like convert to Packet Modeā¦ Optionally could tie the reset to an IO pin of the Processor, but not sure if we want to lose another pin. Or I wonder if it can all be tied to the same reset line as the processor. Not sure if this would work yet as processor +5v, XBee +3.3, but I think both do Pull low to resetā¦
Still want to do a little more testing before I make 002 as I should try to fix as many issues as I can on the first one, so I wont need 003.
Thoughts
Kurt
I have no useful input here, but wanted to offer you my support. Iām not sure what purpose the xbee reset serves.
Thanks Jim,
Welcome back! Hope you had a nice, fun, relaxing week off!
My thoughts are, I allow you to use the XBee on either USART0 and USART1. If you use it on USART0 and the XBee is set to be in Transparent mode, and is set for the baud rate 38400, then you can in theory download your updated program from the PC to your board. However the way that I use the XBees, is that the majority of the time I put the XBee into Packet mode. It gives a lot of nice flexibility. Things like: the hardware takes care of check-summing your data, you know when something starts and stops, and you can easily send and/or receive from multiple other XBees. That is the way my DIY stuff works.
So one approach is to have the XBee configured with the defaults I mentioned above(38400, DL set to My on Xbee on your PC). When you are ready to program you hold down on the reset until the program is ready to download and release. The bootloader will try to download the new program (either over the XBee or whatever else is connected (FTDI cable)ā¦ If the bootloader does not detect a program attempt, it will run your normal program that is free to configure the XBee however it needs it. Note: I can actually probably do this with a remote switch without any changes to the board as I have all of the XBee pins run to a .1" pin header. Alternative is simply turn the power off and turn it on when it is ready to program. However if you are using the power by USB jumper that approach is problematic.
An alternative to this, is I could probably do this in the software. For example the DIY remote code could have a page you step to, when you press the OK button, sets the xbee back to the defaults and spins until it is reset, or maybe cancelled. But this may be harder to program in, if I use this board for example to run my T-Hex. Although I am thinking of adding 1 button to the board to maybe help here.
Again glad your back
Kurt
Thanks Kurt! One week is not long enough. 
Iād prolly just add the button and be done with it.
Decided to have another batch fabricatedā¦ Did some more editing of the board. Things I change include:
- Got rid of JTAG Header - All of the pins needed for JTAG are all in one place so real easy to simply patch wire one upā¦
- Added in 1 button - Sometimes nice to have a button to push to end or start tasksā¦
- Removed the XBee automatic Reset the processor optional parts. - It is not a straight foreword process to setup to use. Need to modify XBee holder on PC, need to change make changes in the Device Manager, Probably need to update the firmware of the XBees to a version that supports it, plus make several configuration changes to the XBEEā¦ Decide that very few including myself are going to go through the hassle.
- Added in a 3 pin header for Com1, that can use a Servo extension wire to connect to SSC-32 if desired. Or other boards as wellā¦
- Replaced on of the POLCAPS with a larger metal SMT capacitor, so can now mount a 220UF cap instead of the 10 I usedā¦
ā¦
If anyone is interested in looking I again uploaded the package with all of the design files, a somewhat up to date BOM (need to remove the parts I removed)ā¦
Kurt
DIY_002.zip (445 KB)
The boards arrived today and I assembled one of them.
The good news, soldering in the Mux on this one was far easier than the first oneā¦ But I think I may have over sized the capacitor next to the speaker. When I plug in the usb, I hear my computer complain like it device went awayā¦ But the led on the board still was lit. I was able to plug in the AVRISP MK2 and download the bootloader to it and was able to download a test program, which so far I have verified the speaker works and the I2C EEPROM worksā¦
Another minor issue with the Arduino 1.0 stuff was I labeled the Analog pins also with their digital numbers, that matched Sanguino boards(A0-31, A1-30ā¦ A7-24), which was screwy. The Arbotix people decided to break from this and renumbered them where A0-24, A1-25ā¦ A7-31. I personally think it was the right decision, as before if you did something like:
for (i=A0; i<=A7; i++) {ā¦}
This loop would never executeā¦
Will continue to test and hopefully move it to my Arduino DIY remote control. Again assuming it works OK, will assemble 1 or 2 more and then maybe try ordering a small group of them from Seeed Studio, where you can get 10 for $10.
Kurt
Good job Kurt!
Alan KM6VV
Iām assuming that you have to handle the mux in the arduino sketch? As in there no way to make it nativeā¦
Yes, I deal with the MUX in the sketch, but it is not that big of a deal. Here is my simple AnalogPin testā¦
[code]void AnalogPinTest() {
int i;
Serial.println("");
for (iPin=0; iPin < 6; iPin++) {
pinMode(iPin, INPUT);
Serial.print(āAnalog Pin ā);
Serial.print(iPin, DEC);
Serial.print(ā:ā);
Serial.println(analogRead(iPin), DEC);
}
// Now lets test our extended Analog pins. - Configure the two digital pins as output and the two analog pins as input
pinMode(22, OUTPUT);
pinMode(23, OUTPUT);
pinMode(A6, INPUT);
pinMode(A7, INPUT);
for (iPin = 0; iPin < 4; iPin++) {
digitalWrite(22, iPin & 0x1);
digitalWrite(23, (iPin >> 1) & 0x1);
delay(100); // give some time to settleā¦
// Read the two valuesā¦
Serial.print(āXā);
Serial.print(iPin2, DEC);
Serial.print(":");
Serial.println(analogRead(6), DEC);
Serial.print(āXā);
Serial.print(iPin2+1, DEC);
Serial.print(":");
Serial.println(analogRead(7), DEC);
}
}[/code]If it became difficult, could easily provide wrapper function: that checked if < 6 use analogRead, >=6 set the appropriate digital values and then read from appropriate place. Also if others wanted to build this board and did not need more than 8 Analog pins, they could easily solder bridge two sets of pins going to the Mux and I think A6 would go to X0 pin and A7 would go to X5 or to the Voltage dividerā¦ If I order some from Seeed may put marks on Silkscreen to indicate this.
Kurt