I prefer the contrast the way he has it.
Very suprised at the Amp draw. What battery life are you getting?
Like rough_wood said I did also like the contrast between the black and the sandblasted aluminium. The body gets more in focus that way. But if I had an anodizer kit I would probably try it though.
Like I said before I used an old jig saw I got from my dad. I remember I used this alot when I was a kid (making robots of course…), so it must be around 25 years old. Its a simple bosch jig saw mounted upside down on a special table that was bought together with the saw. Its very easy to use, and ideal for making the hole inside the body (impossible with a band saw). Here are two pictures of the “magic” saw: 
This is mounted on a steady table when used.
How often do you need to change the saw blade? The blade doesn’t look that tough to be able to saw through that much of aluminum. But you did it! 
Hi Zenta,
I’m surprised about the low current. Did you measure the phoenix as well?
You’re measuring the battery side of the regulator so the servos are drawing (7.4*1.59)/6 = 1.96 Amps at 6V. Well even a bit less with the losses in the regulator. Pretty impressive. I thought it was about 8 times higher!
Xan
High carbon steel will cut through aluminum like a hot knife through butter. The blade will last longer cutting aluminum vs. steel. What I find amazing is that jig saws seem to have a lot of play in the reciprocating blade holder. You can wiggle the blade around to some degree, at least on my jig saw you can. Perhaps the BOSCH saw has tighter tolerances than the Craftsman jigsaw I have. I love that table accessory that clamps on to the jigsaw, very cool.
For a reality check I connected a simpler setup. Just the servo alone not connected to anything. I have the same meter you have btw, LOL
The HS-645MG draws 7.38mA just sitting on the table. A light load is around 200mA. Adding a fair amount of load quickly gets you in to the 300mA to 400mA range. Putting a large wheel on the servo and abusing it shows me about 1 amp. You’ve got 24 of them drawing only 1.5 amps static. An average of 63mA each. Assuming the tars servos are under no stress, it leaves the servos at each end of the femur, um basically a Phoenix. I see the femur is not 100% parallel to the ground, that probably helps too. I’m going back to test the Phoenix current draw again. This is really bothering me. lol in a good way… lol
Wow here’s something interesting. I tested the current draw of the Phoenix and it’s a whopping 0.97 amp standing still! I thought it was much higher than that. It jumps up to as much as 5 amps when walking, but still that’s nothing. I don’t remember where we got the 7-8 amps from? Well here’s my image. 
Wow, your hex draws 1.50 amps! what a power hog… LOL
I have a jigsaw that was bought to do a particular job. I was never impressed with how it attempted to cut metal, even aluminum. Special blades?
By the way, you can do cutouts on the bandsaw; what the shops do is drill a hole to accept the blade, then break the braze on the continuous saw blade, pass it through the hole, re-braze, and make the cut. Then obviously break and re-braze again. Too much work! I’ll just use the mill…
Alan KM6VV
A scroll saw or wire EDM would work well cutting internal cuts. Wire EDM is probably not accessable to most people. Problem with scroll saws is where do you get metal cutting blades? Laser and waterjet are other options but again, out of the reach of most of us.
A scroll saw would work. But once again, finding metal cutting blades are a problem, just as in the jigsaw.
EDM is interesting, but would be painfully slow to cut large cutouts. Better for die work, I’m told. a Mill is still the best way, I think. Cutouts can be trepanned easily.
Laser is available and almost affordable for plastics. Not so much for aluminum! Waterjet, as you’ve observed is also still quite expensive, but interesting!
Alan KM6VV
The 7-8 amps might be peaks that we can’t see with an ordinary multimeter… 
I might do a test on Phoenix too, just for fun. Or even better on A-Pod, i believe he are drawing even more current than T-Hex, especially when holding a 0,5 liter soda can.
Some people might think we share the same workshop…
As you mentioned we have the exact same old Fluke 77 multimeter.
Oh Kare, everyone knows you secretly work here. lol
Yeah, I was beginning to suspect that Kåre and Xan worked for LM!
Alan KM6VV
- , thats true.
I wish we had some Star Trek technology…
“Beam me up Jim!”
Oh I noticed that the Fluke logo are placed a little bit more to the right on yours though…
Yeah, I mean… look at the scuff marks on that meter, they are identical. 
JK
LOL, no no.
PS. Where do we go for lunch, Jim?
I dunno, you want to have pizza?
Great Pizza, right down the road from me! I’m buying (I have an account there)!
Alan KM6VV
I suspect, the low current draw from phoenix and both T-Hex (and probably all walking robot) are due to the reason that the tibia servo is sitting on tibia. This means the tibia only need to lift 2/3 of the actual weight (coxa and femur, and electronics etc), while its own weight (tibia servo) is mostly supported by the tibia leg. 